Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

It's amazing the things we come up with to do our own DIY and I am sure your efforts will produce good results.
Rallying we carry a Tracking rod with us. A piece of 3/8ths tubing threaded at one end with a bolt inserted. Cut it approximately the width of the track of the car allowing for some adjustment of the bolt.
Place it in the centre of the inner wheel rim at the leading edge, adjust the bolt until it touches the other rim.
Now place it in the same position at the rear of the rim and adjust the bolt. The difference at the rear between the two measurements will tell you if you are toeing in or out, adjust to taste. For example if the measurement at the rear is 2mm bigger then you have 1mm of toe in.
Rally car wheels are always getting hit and it's a simple tool to have to sort it at the side of the road in a puddle.

Thats a great idea. I was looking for a rule of thumb way of setting the tracking on my MGB project car as it's still some way off being driven to somewhere that does wheel alignment. Does the tube need a bolt threaded in at each end or just in one end ?

Just one end.
It is just so you can adjust the rod to gently hold in place.
When you move it to the rear of the rim you can tell immediately if it is towing in or out.
If it is a slack fit it is towing in and vice versa.
It is really accurate believe it or not!

TA22GT wrote:

Just one end.
It is just so you can adjust the rod to gently hold in place.
When you move it to the rear of the rim you can tell immediately if it is towing in or out.
If it is a slack fit it is towing in and vice versa.
It is really accurate believe it or not!
 

If you wanted to be really pedantic you'd do away with the bolt and replace in with a thimble micrometer! 🤣🤣🤣

Ckecked my camber front and rear.
NSR 1.0 deg neg,  OSR .75 deg neg
I consider both at 1.0 neg as perfect.
I will adjust the OSR next time it is up in the air.

Front both 0.deg.
I wish the fronts were 1.0 deg neg. but camber plates are expensive!

Edit: much trickier than I thought sitting in my chair supping tea. Had a good look at the rear. Camber and toe in will both have to be done at the same time. 
Going to need my tracking rod or pay the money!

followed CJJ's guide to replace my door locking mechanism, shitty job but it worked out, just have to send a message to the supplier as it was sold to me as "new" but it was obviously used. does work way way way better than the old one and that was the goal in the end

Nothing on the black TF for a couple of weeks, not even driven it. I need to decide whether to put the hardtop on for the winter.

Since the last jobs on the Mk1 F before it went back to it''s previous owner ive made some more progress on the MGB GT. The corroded coners of the side window appetures are now sound a sa pound since my pal welded some new metal in and I stripped the roof back to bare metal over the weekend ready for priming.

4 Wheel alignment.
Std TF settings except for 1.5deg neg camber on the rear.

How did you do that, is it difficult? G.

Via a Hunter machine at my local garage 😁
I have done it myself before but it is a lot of faffing about.
Lot's of vids on YT on how to do it yourself.
Joe Pineapple on here did his via a YT vid. It does work and you can be really accurate.

Changed the oil. Had the car 14 months now and 4k miles.
Always feels good having fresh oil.

Got it back from the smart repair guy who's done a decent enough job on the front and rear corners now. Cleared a fault code using a £13 diagnostic tool but need to find out why it came on over next wee while.

Also sent a few enquiries out to establish cost for a rolling road dyno run just to see if all the horses are still there... Happy to hear about recommendations for a dyno in Scotland and/or meet some other members there if they fancy it.