Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

Daedalus wrote:

I have added three USB-C ports to my dash, next onto the wiring. 

 


Lovely job 😊

Raining today, so couldn’t do much, so I decided  to fit the heated seat switches, which I have been putting off as there is not a lot of wiggle room.

i printed off a couple of drill jigs to try and make sure I got the holes in the right place.
 

Drilled a pilot hole and then slowly enlarged the holes up to the final size, and filed the key way with a needle file.

 

 

I am happy with the result the next job is power, I have a relay ready to go in for a switch live to take off the cigarette lighter, and a six way fuse box. Where is a good place to get a good battery feed from.

One thing to consider, if you are going to add auxiliary items, is to build a distribution board, possibly fused on high demand routes & house it behind the drivers foot well panel.
Those breakout connectors are useful, providing they are of good quality & the only way of deciding that it to buy & be prepared to chuck them in the bin if they’re crap (voice of experience). There’s a spare way in the fuse board or you could use the heated rear window supply, reasonable supply current & infrequently used. There are also two Lucar blades in the fuse board, one is switched, the other not. An insulated Lucar will just go on.
Can I add a proviso; it’s several months since in was in the fuse board parish & the memory is a little frayed around the edges, trot around with a meter or better still, a grounded bulb/buzzer & probe/Lucar.
When working alone & with your arse in the air & face in the carpet, a light or buzz is easier to register than having to crick your neck to see a meter.
M

Yes, that’s the idea, use the relay to switch on the power to the new fuse box. I may run a cable direct from the battery to power it.

There’s no problem doing that providing whatever you are hanging on the other end doesn’t exceed the rating of the wire.
The fatter the better really.
I have a four way mini fuse satellite fuse box mounted on the EPS bracket, to attend to twiddley bits such as DLRs & things which have sprouted like mushrooms 🍄 at the behest of folk who can’t make their own madness; these things have to be tested on something.
There are a number of safe routes through the bulkhead where a fat wire can pass & look OEM if dressed properly.
Use brown wire, red is so last season!
M

This morning I have mainly been changing the gearbox oil. The gearbox has quite a whine whilst in 1st and also 5th. It sounds like a straight cut gearbox!
So I thought I'd try an oil change, 2 odd liters came out and looked pretty clean, 2.5ltrs back in. Yet to test it but I'm hoping it helps.

Greased the ends of the gearbox cablestoo, that has made the change much smoother.

I'm surprised how easy the MGF is to work on. I've built an MX-5 from a bodyshell and there were jobs on that which were far more painful to do!

Good luck with the oil change and I hope it helps with the noise.

I'm not familiar with the TF gearboxes but usually First gear drives from the Mainshaft at the front because it transmits a lot of torque to get moving and Fifth gear via cogs drives from the rear of the Mainshaft. The rest of the gears drive from the layshaft.
Noise in First and Fifth is usually the Input bearing or rear bearing.
As I said I have never stripped a TF box and as they are cheap enough to get hold of I would be changing the box!
You need a press to get the bearings on and off the shafts.
I hope it doesn't come to that.

Fingers crossed it won't be a bearing. Is the F gearbox the same as the TF? I've got a 2000 MGF with the 1.8VVC engine.

I can only assume so as I don't know so!
Others will confirm.

Yes.

surfymac wrote:

Fingers crossed it won't be a bearing. Is the F gearbox the same as the TF? I've got a 2000 MGF with the 1.8VVC engine.Fr

As long as it's from a VVC.

You will have to swap the speedo drive if yours is a mk1 and the cables are slightly different on the TF so you'll need to change the ends on the box.

My speedo cable broke