I’ve used Mannol for quite a while, first on the Land Rovers, gearbox initially, on recommendation, this had a noticeable & beneficial effect.
It is less expensive than other offerings, which means my more regular change regime isn’t as injurious to the wallet.
It is often said that cheap oils are rubbish, some may not be as “Rock & Roll” as others, they all, however have to be manufactured to a standard specification.
In all probability “Manufactured” is the wrong word, blended is more appropriate. A standard oil will be bought in & the witches & wizards will throw stuff in. Copper & zinc were favourite with Duckhams, that’s why it was green.
Hum!
M
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The standard regular should be fine, possibly on its limit but fine, however a reasonable adjustable pressure regulator is available at a price to interest. I was asking to modify a system for a chap, it’s not a one out one in, not the one I have experience of at any rate. As the supplier of the original unit “misplaced” the initial order a second was sent, shortly after both arrived by the same carrier & so I fitted the supposed replacement to my car.
It looks nice with its silicone damped gauge & having mopped up the petrol after a jubilee clip failing, I found not the slightest difference, but as I say, it looks nice.
There is/was info on the net giving a modification explanation, let’s hope it hasn’t gone due to the demise of the other MG site.
(Pssst I’ve forgotten which one it is, it’s an age thing, don’t tell They might think I’m loosing it)
M
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The bending down doesn’t create the problem, it the return to the upright which underscores the aged.
I have bending down jobs to do, procreation is getting in the way; that & the cold garage.
M
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If you look at the illustration you put up earlier you will see two square items, which could be mistaken for captive nuts; they are not.
These devices are die cast “clips” held onto the shaft bracketry by nylon pegs. These are designed to shear if the steering column collapses during an accident; they are a loose fit in the mounting bracket if these nylon pegs are absent or sheared for some reason.
I would be taking the column out to inspect it on the bench. The contortionist is better placed to undertake this job or a grand child.
As with many jobs on our cars the age diaspora, here present, mitigates against doing jobs on a quick turnaround basis.
Does anyone else recognise these comments in there mechanical transactions?
M
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I’ll add an extra line or two, these will be about informed buying of replacement parts & the unshipping of redundant items.
I suspect you are destined to replace the rear light clusters, if you become the new owner; there are lots on eBay, early & late. The early (f) had a darker tint to the clear portion of the unit, later, lighter.
The car illustrated would have had lighter, however it might look better, to your eye, by fitting darker units.
I bought a light pair last October & paid & this is no error, £0.99, I was the sole bidder. A five minute detour from a regular trip brought them home.
My guess is the Lexus style lamp units would be snapped up via eBay.
There are fewer bargains on eBay now than when I was restoring my cars but there still to be had. Perseverance in the higher page numbers can be fruitful, this is how I managed to pay 99p for the lamp units.
M
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There was a chap who was looking for a car a few weeks ago & having turned one up, which suited him, he came on to quiz us & to solicit our opinions. Ultimately he bought the car but it was knife edge stuff.
All the advice given by our usual panel of contributors has great value & is based on there experience. Those who’s experience is less good will be more cautious, that will be reflected in their comments. For those whose plain sailing has been the predominant, will be more encouraging.
Your money, your choice, will it be your car?
You should never consider one of our cars as a “capital I” investment. To make the most of our cars, the investment is the effort you put in to the car. Good investments, such as sorting the mechanicals out properly, keep on top of the jobs, massage it’s appearance to your requirements, attend to these & you will be repaid with an almost limitless amount of pleasure.
Until you run out of petrol, because MGR didn’t fit a low fuel light & the gauge isn’t the finest.
M
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That is so, however I couldn’t summon up another suitable & frivolous substitute for “technical”, certainly not within the timescale.
M
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The plastic off side guard has remained unchanged from the outset, it has channels moulded in it to facilitate the routing of the hydrogas pipe work. Behind the near side fibre cover was the resonator box, originally fitted to the air induction system.
More than that I cannot add.
M
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The lighter interiors are more pleasing to my eye than the “limestone quarry floor”, “testicular black” range, even the “hand granade red” is a bit off, in my opinion.
Had I been aware of interiors other than “mudstone” I might have looked further.
But I didn’t; I recon that would serve nicely.
M
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I'd give the original fibre offering a little more credit, mine has been on since 1998 & its still fine. Not even "just hanging on". It is a bit crappy when compared to a plastic one, which would have made more sense.
M
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No, that's a bad idea! I've seen videos of poorly equipped workshops doing remarkable work, that though is a matter of "needs must if the devil drives". I'm of the opinion, as with the rest of the lads, that your missing piece was missing before the head was put back on. If it had broken whilst running (Why/how) it would have left evidence of its departure. Order spares & rebuild.
M
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I didn’t get chance to go a hunting & as it has transpired it wouldn’t have been enlightening after your recent information.
If you split the cowling around the auxiliary stalks/ignition key (three screws, side clips & a struggle) you should, having contorted yourself into a position normally only available to the double jointed, you & amongst the jungle of wire, will see the mounts.
I’ll leave it for you to assess, however if you wish to photograph what you have & post them on here I’ll take a look.
Where abouts are you?
M
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Unlike Cobber I have no worries about combatants still hiding after the “Hostilities”, Australia is much bigger than my garage, with fewer hiding places.
I’ve a Mk1 f column, I’ll look later.
The illustration is of a later, adjustable offering from a later car than yours, if your car has the drop leaver to adjust the hight, that implies a retro fit & if done poorly, that could be the root of your problem. Get it looked at immediately!
There are two ways to change from fixed to adjustable; removing the original fixing points & welding in new, or a correctly engineered adapter plate, using high tensile bolts. I have taken the second method & find it satisfactory, mind you it was a lot of work & the amended position is little different from standard.
M
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That’s when men, sorry, blokes were blokes & the bloody sheep learned to run like - - - - very early on.
I could have ploughed half an acre in my T20, which was built a few years after that Bulldog, in the time it took to get that going & all I had to do was turn the petrol on check the coolant give it a significant amount of choke, ignition on, hand throttle half way, stick over & up, then start work.
Mind you that would shift Tasmania, with that, a two furrow Fergy plough was a handy, without straining.
Thanks for the video, great stuff.
M
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Yes, they were the Field Marshall & they did use a shotgun cartridge, obviously without the shot.
The engine would be primed & arrange to be just after TDC, the cartridge inserted, a cap cover dropped over the firing pin & WAP, away it would go.
Brilliant, I don’t recall ever seeing one failing to start.
A German company Lanz used a hot bulb to atomise the fuel, before starting. A fire would be lit under the bulb if the blow lamp (provided) couldn’t get it hot enough.
Mainly a winter problem.
M
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