I’m quite taken with that idea, I’m shortly going to fit lowering suspension knuckles * & like you I’ve a hump to overcome as I reverse into the garage.
I could go under the car & measure the gain by fitting a plate but we’re off for a week away.
*the fitting of the suspension knuckles has been threatened for the past few years. They’ll need another coat of paint by the time I’m ready.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'Rear LEDs' in the forum. 1 hour 55 minutes ago

I think I’m correct in saying that the CANBUS compatibility LED lamps have an electronic load built in & that spoofs our cars into thinking that the load is comparable with an incandescent designed system.
The price range of LED for car applications is vast & you really do get what you pay for. I’ve tested a good number & if anyone wants any free samples of ones I’ve considered second best just pop around, but do bring a carrier bag.
One problem with LEDs is also their strength & that’s their low current drain; some draw so little that that small amount won’t draw enough to overcome the contact resistance of a poor quality fitting.
The contacts on the rear light clusters on our cars are a mild steel pressing which is then plated (possibly some tin alloy) & the slightest bit of corrosion will create a high resistance. This resistance will be sufficient to attenuate the light output to vertically zero. An original lamp, drawing more current would “overcome” that resistance.
The near side rear indicator on my car dims appreciably & it requires the contacts cleaning, I have to do this from time to time even though I use a spot of Electrolube on the contacts. Why just the near side, I’ve no idea?
One last thought: the lamp fitting has two connections & it’s usually the steel pressed plate that causes the problem, the positive contact, which looks like it could be some brass alloy gets kacked up. This, I think I’d deposition of contact material from the lamp positive. It’s always good practice to give that a clean when you are in there, an old fashioned ink rubber is very useful for this.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'Rear LEDs' in the forum. 18 hours 58 minutes ago

The LED flasher unit isn't compatible with our cars, ours use a three pin unit (YWT10003), where as the LED flasher units I've seen are two pole. The load resistors work out to be 5 to 10 ohms & need to be around 25 watt +.
Looking on everyone's favourite general store (Ebay) there are any number listed & they are rated as 6ohms @ 50watt & about £6-00. You need I per lamp, (if you want to know why you can't use one per side give me a shout). I searched for LED resistors & was straight in.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'Rear LEDs' in the forum. 20 hours 21 minutes ago

You’ll need a couple of fat resistors in parallel with the lamps, I can’t remember the rating but I’ll check later.
It’s brew time & if you think I’m going to do Ohms law over a cup of Earl Grey your one off.
There not a lot of ohms but are quite high wattage.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'just a thought' in the forum. yesterday

Once I’ve written this I’ll shut up for the moment.
The 15” VVC f’s wheels had Allen headed inserts in the five spokes, these are another useless addition & attract the curious to insert a key & try & remove them.
This was the was the case when I bought my car. The previous owner didn’t satisfy himself with ruining one & realising they were plastic inserts, he had a go at most of them. I like things to be right (who noticed?); I removed the lot, ran a tap down the hole & with chemically blackened stainless Allen screws, replaced the lot.
They now look nice, but that is all they do.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'Answers on a postcard please' in the forum. yesterday

I have something similar out of a Riley, if you remember to wind it up it keeps excellent time, but only in 1932.
Once you have found out what to do with it, let me know.
Alternatively you can have mine & use the two to start a National collection.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'Aerial' in the forum. yesterday

As a first try I’d remove the top nut & then screw the aerial back into the base & give it a good wiggle bordering on thrutch, it should come free. It’ll have had some goo around the thread to waterproof it & that in, all probability will have transmogrified into Ugg. Ugg doesn’t let go without a bit of a fight.
If that fails hit it (no don’t do that!)
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'just a thought' in the forum. yesterday

Those daft Allen headed “screws” are retained by spring clips, these rot & fail to hold the stainless nothings in place, they vibrate out & are lost.
This is from personal experience; I set to, stripping the filler cap down & made tapped inserts, into which I screwed real Allen screws; it was indistinguishable from original, other than a slight hight disparity, which was resolved by a bit of machining.
One happy with the job I cleaned things up & promptly found the missing Allen “stud”.
The expression is, I think, pissed off.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'Aerial' in the forum. yesterday

I think it’s held in from the top. The top nut (black) screws on to a thread coming up through the wing from the base & it is this that retains it.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'TF immobiliser' in the forum. 3 days ago

Thank you Roverlike, that is good information.
I was prompted to comment by a recent incident with my daughter’s car, it refused to start & so a bag of tools was compiled & of on a mercy mission. I was used to handling the original fob & so when I was handed a pristine example to try my luck I started to wonder.
After five minutes in the rubbish bin searching for the husk of the original we were back on the road & a little wiser. The transponder is not much bigger than a couple of match heads & was tucked up away from the transmitter & so easily overlooked, even if you were looking for it.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'DZUS for engine cover' in the forum. 3 days ago

The bracing bars in the engine compartment, under the wheel well & behind heater controls were developed by Vehicle Handling Solutions to stiffen up the structure during the transition from f to tf, (possibly for the f Mk2).
The engine braces & wheel well we’re popular retro fits, less so with the heater brace as this needed welding in after a lot of the inside had to be taken out. Arguably this was the brace that made the greatest improvement.
I don’t think the original cover had the large holes, it can’t have as I remember working the 10mm holes, when I fitted a kit, although I recall the body was punched to accommodate.
Admission time; I didn’t fit the heater brace nor did I note any great improvement to overall rigidity.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'TF immobiliser' in the forum. 4 days ago

I have an early (ish) f, this was supplied without the transponder coil. Having to use the fob to re mobilise the car is indicative of either the fob not talking to the coil or the coil not listening. This irritated me to the point where I retrofitted a coil, once fitted it has worked faultlessly.
Have you changed the fob body recently? If you have you might have discarded the fob mounted chip with the old unit.
Our friend (sorry I have forgotten your name) recommend trying a second fob, this is an excellent idea as you would prove that network.
Unless you have two duff chip fobs & what are the chances of that?
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'DZUS for engine cover' in the forum. 5 days ago

I use a couple of Dzus fasteners on the drivers foot well fuse box, it was such a relief to get rid of those plastic things.
On the subject of the access panel, apart from the three hex headed screws under the speakers I’ve replaced the remainder with Allen headed screws, into the rivnuts I used to replace the pressed I threads. They can now be wizzed in & out with the wizzy gun, as the hex key indexes far better than a socket.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'TF160 for sale.' in the forum. 6 days ago

Is it staying in Lancashire or is it wandering further afield?
I’ll keep an eye out for it if it still live in north east lancs.
M

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