The tanks were blow moulded & I think they are polyetherketone (PEK).
Or so I've been lead to believe.
M
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I'm guessing that the two special screws I spent an hour making have dropped down below the gear change mech. As they are stainless my magnet is useless, To take all the stuff out of the way to retrieve them is probably a couple of hours work, I'll make some more. Pisser.
M
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Certainly, that would be a really inconvenient, having to stop the car, put the roof up, drop the window, put the roof back down & set off again.
And what happens if theres a touch too much of a draft & you want it up about couple of inches?
M
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I’ve waded through that lot & im still not totally happy. A number of the winter jobs are in the doors, including fitting remote window switches just up from the inner handle. This is a more intuitive position than behind the gear stick.
M
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There mixed in with his vast mechanical knowledge is a firm grasp of material science, lost to most folk. And this is no piss take, it is genuine admiration. Would this soften more evenly than PP in my wife's oven?
M
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The tank will in all probability be polypropylene, that's the go to plastic if an inert & resilient material is required. We've just replaced the chairs at church & have stripped the metalwork off, the fabric & plastic: the plastic is polyprop & I want to make a form to cast some fibreglass & assumed that by heating the stuff up I could produce what I wanted. I cant get the entire piece to soften uniformly to do what I want. And she came home early when I had it in the oven. The bollocking wasn't as bad as expected.
Right Cobbs. Your problem is only a pain in the arse when its your arse where the pain is, the rest of us are just fine. Mind you there only seems to be you who are troubled. The tank is an odd shape, you knew that when you started & as the car is supposed to be a light weight sports car a metal tank would be counterproductive.
It was made by a cash strapped company, which is why they went for the cheapest, most appropriate material. There is only you who has recent troubles, & that was due to Antipodean Rotten Rust Riddled Rolling Juice, whose to blame for that?
Thuryar yuv bin reet bollocked futhi daftnes. I have another idea, which I'll return to later, Av bin shoutid after. (my wife requires me).
As ever, your friend M
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Isn’t that the engine that was used in the Noble car. That was a brisk bit of kit, I suspect that there would be very little skin left on any rice pudding associated with that combination.
M
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Which would be the easiest & quickest experiment to do?
Firstly & most importantly the fuel has to be neutralised, irrespective of the methodology, unless, that is, unless you want to suck petrol vapour up adjacent to a sparking motor.
Half an hour, probably less, would have a blanking plate screwed over the pump hole & an adapter taking the filler pipe inlet to the hose on an energetic vacuum cleaner or vacuum pump.
A glamorous assistant to help & let the magic begin.
It not all that mad cap & after all we’ve covered some far out ideas on here, some as far out as the Kuiper Belt.
M
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I’m flying by the seat of my pants (Jockettes)on this one. But if you bung up the holes, bar one & apply an industrial vacuum to that, you might reduce its volume by that tad you need for it to pop out.
M
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Only when you take the rear callipers back down to their vest & underpants do you fully understand how they work & unless you have the correct tools to rebuild them you’ll be wanting replacements.
The chamber in which the needle rollers live is originally filled with a specific grease & over time this degrades & water gets in, turning rollers into rust dust. If you squirt any type of spray “oil” in you create an rust/ lubricant paste, this dries out rapidly & solidifies exacerbating the problem further.
Prior to the squirt of death some of the rollers remain in place by dint of the rust around them, wash this out & you have a problem multiplied.
I’ve no doubt that many folk have been squirting there callipers (not a euphemism Cobber) & getting away with it but eventually - - - - -
M
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I was co-opted by my lad to be on hand whilst he stripped & retrieved a log splitter. It was a bit on the big side, to a point where I was a little worried about my engine hoist, which was in a staring role.
I was asked to disconnect the 3phase power pack & pump & presented with two adjustable spanners & what might have started life as a screwdriver.
Fortunately my lad got to me with the correct spanners before I resigned.
Adjustable spanners have their uses, but only if a proper hammer isn’t available.
Right, back to the subject in hand. The plastic radiator bleed point is easily damaged, however it’s better to damage the thread on the cap rather than ripping the thread out of the radiator.
If you’re confident in your abilities a domestic radiator blanking plug in either stainless & plated steel is better & cheaper, on last inspection, than one from Xpart.
Access to the heater bleed nipple hiding behind the bulkhead shield usually means removing the shield. If however you drill a hole in it on axis with the nipple, you can bleed that without the fag of removing it.
The engine bleed screw, which is M6, I have replaced with a digital thermometer probe, the readout is in the car. By using the probe wire as a guide I can bleed that point without having to take the inspection cover off.
I also know within a few degrees what temperature the coolant is in the galleries.
M
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