The relay module you seek is hiding behind the bracket that supports the engine ECU in the engine bay on to LH side.
It's probably easier to diagnose the relay at the fuel tank unit, beside the engine cover (under the dead dog) there is another circular cover with 4 screws securing it. hiding under this is the tank unit, unplug the electrical connector and with you multimeter or test light put the + probe into the plug terminal with the White/Purple wire and the - probe to the terminal with the BLACK wire........if you have power all is probably well with the relay and earth header ( I say probably with no load under this test you may get a result but under full load a poor connection may fail )
Now if you get a poor result, you need to check the earth header to do this take your - probe and earth it to the car's chassis and place your + probe to the terminal of the WHITE/PURPLE wire of the plug.......if you now get a good result you can suspect the earth header as your problem.
If you have power at the WHITE/PURPLE wire you should have power to the fuel pump.
The GREEN/BLACK wire is for the fuel gauge.
Now connect 12volts + to the terminal on the tank unit (where the WHITE/PURPLE wire would connect) and earth to the terminal (where the BLACK wire would connect) now see if it is pumping fuel....if not suspect the pump
As your car isn't a TF, don't waste time looking for that fuse 23 previously mentioned, it's only relevant to TFs
Now let's assume that you've decided the relay is OK and you suspect the pump itself.
You need to unplug the fuel lines and then remove the big collar nut that secures the fuel tank unit, one you start to with draw the unit you will find the float unit for the gauge won't let it come all the way out, ther are a couple of screws to remove securing the float assy to the tank unit to allow the tank unit to be fully removed from the tank.
Once out check the the 4 wires in side the tank unit, the RED wire is the pump +, it's companion BLACK wire is the Pump -.
The BLUE wire and it's companion BLACK wire are the for the gauge
Also check all the terminals in the tank unit are all OK and not broken or corroded.
If all that seems well, replace the pump!
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Or if your in Melbourne I could perhaps bring my fuel injection system pressure test kit around a test it properly ans safely.
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That's all you need Some random Fat lady singing accompanied by the bloody car alarm! 😲I do believe you may have mentioned this on occasion on this forum...😁
I am starting to see your viewpoint.
But it ain't over til the fat Lady sings...
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If you do end up replacing the pump have a good look in the tank, to see if it's full of muck, you might have to clean out the tank like I did recently, if you have to remove the tank, there is a trick to it. But we shall worry about that if it needs to happen. I can giude you through it.
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Where in Oz are you? Melbourne? if so I might be able to help, yes the fuel pumps on these thing can work intermittently, but first you need to check if it's getting current.
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Yes those eared clamp are what we use in industry on the operators pneumatic retracting air hose reels, because you cant tell the knuckle heads not to pull the hose out by only gripping the air gun, thereby putting all the load on the hose joint! they never listen as they are the fonts of all knowledge!
We find these types of clamp hold well due to their permanent crimped nature.
There are both double and "van Gough" single eared versions
you need special crimping pliers to crimp them and these come in single jawed
and double jawed with side jaws for space restriced applications
There are also pneumatic are crimping tools available.
To remove these clamps we either grab them by the ear with a set of wire cutters and twist to open them up or cut the ear through with a small set of bolt cutter type pliers at the eye of the crimp, I've also seen angle griners used to remove the but this usually damages the hose!
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