It's not an oil pressure gauge it's an oil temp gauge and a bloody useless one at that, it's about as handy as tits on a bull!........just ignore it!
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Ah yes that type of weld mesh has a wave crinkle texture formed in to the wires, it's more attractive than the straight wired weld mesh.Airportable post=208350 userid=5200
We cut short our walk & returned to camp early after twisting my foot & so I started to go through STUFF on my phone to see if I could track down The Mesh Company. I did & they are in Warrington & yes they’re called The Mesh Company, they’re on eBay.
I have bought several types for various jobs, the nicest in my opinion for our job is what I refer to as “Bentley Radiator Mesh”, it is not called that on their web site. It can be used either way round depending on preference, the intake picture was taken to illustrate scale of the ram pipe, however it shows the mesh reasonable well.
more info in a week if required.
M
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I've done the maintenance engineering in wire mesh manufacturing plants.One thing I forgot to mention...
With this type of mesh, the crossing wires are not welded so the smaller pieces tend to come apart if you aren't careful. I fixed them in various ways. Using body fixings, Araldite and a hot glue gun. The glue gun was easiest but not the neatest (see the front grille)
Actually it is welded, but not in the sense you might think, the machine that makes it takes the long wires from spools and the cross wires that are either pre cut lengths laid across, or taken off spools, laid across and cut it situ, then the two directions of wires are pressed together and an electrical current applied to fuse the wires together.
These welds strength is limited by the thickness of the wires used, very thin wires can only bare a small amount of electrical current before overheating so as a result this can limit the strength of the welds. the current used can be effectively varied by the dwell (amount of time a given current is applied) or the strength of the current itself
Thicker mesh such as the reinforcing mesh used in concrete has very strong welds done in the same manner but with a shit load more current put through it.
The expanded security mesh I mentioned is punched by a machine from a solid sheet of metal into a mesh with a bit of a cheese grater like wavy textured pattern, it is much stronger and to me it looks better.
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There always were many purveyors of precut stainless steel mesh inserts on ebay, but you could source some mesh in a sheet and easily cut your own, I'd be inclined to go for the stainless stuff used in security doors..... leave it unpainted, or if you don't like how that looks paint it black or any other colour you like, tough I suspect natural SS or black would probably look best!
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Well the bad news is my car still has steel pipes fitted, and they are showing signs of corrosion little flaky blistered patches on the out side (the insides will no doubt, be worse)
So I'm afraid that I'll be needing the nice shiny new SS set I have.
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Wouldn't that turn a soft lead pencil into a hard lead pencil? or is that how you put lead in your pencil?whilst wearing them ?
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The trouble with liquid sprays like WD40 is that they are wet and can attract dirt to clog shit up, try a dry silicone spray lube it quickly dries out but leaves a dry silicone reside that keeps the surface lubricated.
A word of caution, try not to get this stuff all over your paint work, it's bloody hard the get off and it's an absolute pain in the hairy botbot to try a repaint over the residue!
You can tell if there is silicone residue on your paintwork...... you get strange looking pin holes forming in your paint as it dries, the only solution when that happens is to remove all the paint layers down to below the silicone layer, a good reason not to use silicone polish too!
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I see you have the clip on the upper arm, have you tried to fit it to the failed lower arm?
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I found a set for my car on OZ ebay, I haven't fitted them yet........in fact I got them on spec, because they were there, I don't even know If my car needs them as I haven't bothered looking. I s'pose I could sneak a look this week sometime, if I don't need them because it already has them, then you could make me an offer that I couldn't refuse.
I'm in Melbourne BTW
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I much prefer 2 pack over 1 pack acrylic, it gets great gloss off the gun, you do need a good respirator and you need to be careful of bugs and dust blowing about because they are an absolute bloody pain in the arse to sand out and any mistakes like runs are harder to rectify.
But unlike the 1 pack stuff it generates much less dust, so thats another plus.
The end results are with 2 pack are much superior both in looks and durability, as for all the modern water based rubbish.....it don't last! It's supposedly more enviro friendly but it's still as toxic as all get out, so I don't see the point.
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If you had a left bugger you would have the set!I have, in the past, been critical of the purveyors of duff information & to find I’m involved in the same caper is a right bugger.
It’s to be hoped that no one has shot out to the car & made a shit show on the back of my poor memory.
M
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The mirrors are pretty solid and won't be to difficult to remove, the door handles are a pain in the arse to remove, I don't remember how I did it, but I do remember them giving me the absolute screaming shits!
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