Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

Your mates engine is doing bearings definitely because of the oil pick up clearance.
We had a similar problem on a Toyota TA40 that was fitted with a baffled sump..but the baffle was wrong!
Find a way of creating clearance or it will be the crank next!
Love your write up Joe..same brakes and wheels as mine..only I have good brakes..😁😁
Get some Yellowstuff in there and come back here grinning!
Good luck with all you do..oh..and hopefully sending my ECU off this week too.

Luckily the crank appears alright, think that issue is why it came cheap though - previous owner had thrown several sets of bearings at it looking at receipts file from his mechanic and there was all sorts of RTV in the oil pickup too when we inspected it after first time out dropping oil pressure.

I think he'd decided to stop throwing money at it, as he wasn't a mechanic himself - It's taken 2 years to sort and troubleshoot (after having crashed the main, faster Westfield (300 bhp Zetec turbo)  catastrophically and walked out unharmed, due to technical errors from previous owners, it was decided to finally rebuild this one. So hopefully this will be the last rebuild. Thanks for your input btw -)


 

Re: brakes - I think I've found a pattern part coupler for removing bias valve, arriving this week, if it works will share P/N. Thanks for the inspiration but I CBA flaring steel lines or running new copper ones all the way to the rear just yet:-)

Anyone have any idea when my clutch fluid is ready for renewal?

:^(

I didn't have time to full bleed the system, so kept filling and draining the reservoir until it looked less like coffee and more like DOT - took about half a liter of draining with a syringe and then filling over 20 minutes... is this normal or should I expect to have to change slave seals soon?

This is the problem with most garages, they're parts fitters and a "service" is an oil change, if you're lucky...

Cheers

 

What oil is that RV8 running? Being an old school design it shouldn't be running anything too light all this modern thin oil isn't good for those engines they like a bit of viscosity!
Bloody silicone sealant will always find a away of blocking oil pick ups, that and a lack of clearance will be a always be a cause for pain and suffering!
Also check the oil pump internal clearances, there are high volumes oil pumps available for those engines from the US as they're based on a Buick design.

Don't forget to pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly on reassembly these don't always pick up oil on a dry start up as they aren't self priming, so the happy fat  in the pump helps it prime. Pressure relief valves  can stick open. There are also stronger oil pressure relief valves available.
There is quite a bit to the lubrication systems on RV8s Des Hammill has written a book on these engines "How to Power Tune Rover V8s" I recommend you seek it out, I suspect it's cost will quickly pay for itself with this particular engine.

The Repco (Brabham) engine had the ghost of a Rover V8 hiding in it.
I recall it did quite well.
M

Went to Octagon Car Care where they installed a modified shifter mechanism! It's a lot better, but still a lil rough (Mostly because my MG F is a lil rough...) 

However the procedure unveiled some more problems with the MG F, mainly just the fact that it's been jankily stitched together by barely capable mechanics for the past near 30 years, and has a lot of overdue everything because of it. Oil filter looks to be original for example 

It's left me to conclude that this MG F will be a little throwaround for me to enjoy for a few years, before eventually trading up to a nicer TF.

wrote:

The Repco (Brabham) engine had the ghost of a Rover V8 hiding in it.
I recall it did quite well.
M


 

Yes The Repco F1 engine used to win the 66 and 67 world championships was based on the Oldsmobile block a vary close cousin to the Buick block (the difference being extra head studs in the Oldsmobile version) Repco used their own OHC head design and a flat plane crankshaft.  They went for simple and reliable over power and complexity, they knew with the new 3 liter formula that everyone would have new designs, and would have reliability issues, so the went by the philosophy of  "In order to finish first.......first you must finish!" So while evryone else was having teething troubles with their more powerful and compicated designs, Brabham were finishing races

Joe_Pineapples wrote:

Re: brakes - I think I've found a pattern part coupler for removing bias valve, arriving this week, if it works will share P/N. Thanks for the inspiration but I CBA flaring steel lines or running new copper ones all the way to the rear just yet:-)

Replacing the proportioning valve is worth it and you will notice a difference. The better balance you achieve stays when you put better pads in.
I've gone from being worried about the brakes to them no longer being a concern.
 

I’ve had bother removing the proportioning valve with a straight through; I couldn’t get a seal between the reverse swage on the stock pipe work with the adapter.
If you find the device you have in mind works, as a one for one replacement could you put the information up, it would be much appreciated.
M