Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

Found out I have no ABS also (no not in a bad way), so this inspired me to fit a proportioning valve, thanks :^)

I am sure you will like it 😉
Wind it fully open so it has no effect and find a quiet straight road and brake hard. If it doesn't lock the back wheels you are good to go. If it does back it back a little. I will be gobsmacked if it does.
You will feel the car sit down when you brake.
Now fit Yellowstuff pads and tell me you aren't smiling. 😁

I'm gonna have to stick with the current, somewhat dubious quality Delphi pads at least for now seeing as I've spent £800 on this thing plus tax and insurance in the last month already and 13 days work! Although with the new exhaust fitted, it sounds the part now, properly enjoying driving it now it feels and sounds like a proper car

The lack of ABS does explain what I thought were poor brakes, they're probably just not over - servo'd like most modern brakes - I guess this is cos there's no ABS pump to assist so the master cylinder is sized so they don't lock up... they're actually about what you want from a non ABS car, in that case I suppose.

But yeah I agree it's a bit too nose - heavy, hence the need for a proportioning valve, such as this one for £30 from Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009099081347.html?

If I manage to sell another car in the next few weeks, then I'll buy the Yellowstuffs and a remap and most likely confirm what you've been saying!

...and a glass rear screen, some new wings, a rear subframe, servo reinforcement brace, a subwoofer, some LE500 badges, VHS bilsteins and some fluffy dice
 

It never stops does it!?
That proportioning valve with the knob adjustment is better than the lever type as far as fine adjustment is concerned.
I don't have a valve but to do that you have to flare male ends on the steel pipe..not easy unless you have a quality flaring tool. Most cheap tools won't do steel.
I'm away at the end of the week to my sons hotel but when I get back it's remap time!!
My car goes really well and I am dreading finding it has already been done.
There is the remnants of a 1inch square sticker on the outside of the Ecu but just the backing sticky stuff.

Yeah I did wonder about flaring the steel pipes myself, I guess we'll see how good my kit is... or I'll be replacing the entire hardline arrangement I guess.

Fingers crossed on the map, where are you getting it done? It was either Saws or Kmaps for me. Based on an hours research I'm thinking Kmaps myself, based on their heritage with these cars and also anecdotal information plus I'm close to one of their partners at Retro Sports Cars in Brighouse and I've heard great things about their work, plus also Chris there helped me narrow down my annoying noise (or one of them) in a random phone call, so that advice gets my custom I'm sure the Saws maps are decent as well based on the feedback and they're a bit cheaper too, so I don't think you can go wrong either way.

Not many normally aspirated cars you can get 10hp+ from a remap on is there!

TA22GT wrote:

It never stops does it!?
That proportioning valve with the knob adjustment is better than the lever type as far as fine adjustment is concerned.
I don't have a valve but to do that you have to flare male ends on the steel pipe..not easy unless you have a quality flaring tool. Most cheap tools won't do steel.
I'm away at the end of the week to my sons hotel but when I get back it's remap time!!
My car goes really well and I am dreading finding it has already been done.
There is the remnants of a 1inch square sticker on the outside of the Ecu but just the backing sticky stuff.


These are the stickers on the back of my ECU

 

Joe, it’s not only the 10-15 HP gained, it’s mostly about the torque improvement, I think
 

Thanks Pedro!
It doesn't have the big stickers but it may have the remnants of the lower one. Will try have a better look today.
It's not documented anywhere in the paperwork but then again I won't be either!
It goes really well so if it's not done I am going to be happy.

Joe_Pineapples wrote:

Yeah I did wonder about flaring the steel pipes myself, I guess we'll see how good my kit is... or I'll be replacing the entire hardline arrangement I guess.

Fingers crossed on the map, where are you getting it done? It was either Saws or Kmaps for me. Based on an hours research I'm thinking Kmaps myself, based on their heritage with these cars and also anecdotal information plus I'm close to one of their partners at Retro Sports Cars in Brighouse and I've heard great things about their work, plus also Chris there helped me narrow down my annoying noise (or one of them) in a random phone call, so that advice gets my custom I'm sure the Saws maps are decent as well based on the feedback and they're a bit cheaper too, so I don't think you can go wrong either way.

Not many normally aspirated cars you can get 10hp+ from a remap on is there!

https://ebay.us/m/gFKOEg..
Joe I think this valve has the inner flare you need to fit it without altering the brake pipes. Not 100% sure.
Even with std pads you will notice a difference in how it sits more..it feels much better.
Good luck with all your work..love your enthusiasm!!
 

Standard DIY kits won't look at steel pipes, you are likely to damage the tool, the other point with the brake balance unit is the internal mating form. The standard balance unit, if fitted, has a cone in the receptacle designed to mate with a double form (a standard flair folded back into itself) on the pipe. Anything other than a proper mate will have brake fluid pissing out uncontrollably.
M

I do believe the one I posted has the correct innards. As said not 100% sure but I saw the same valve posted without the red plugs in place.
Fingers crossed!

I used a heavy duty DIY one to flare a steel brake pipe on my daily car when i needed to replace the last few inches that had been exposed to seawater.
It can be done with a mid priced DIY kit but you do need one that explicitly states it can be used for steel and copper.  Mine was the type consisting of a block in two halves which need to be loosened when first putting the end of the pipe in place. The two halves are tightened together and a threaded former then has to then be screwed into the (now intact) block to do the flaring.  The task should have been easy and it probably was other than the day I did mine it was p*ssing down with rain, my back was aching and there was no one around to hold the torch or pass me tools so took longer than it should.

I used the same kind of tool...one that you can separate the handle from to work in situ.
It was borrowed from my local garage, German in make and I did it on his fourcourt.
My own tool wouldn't look at at steel.
It's been ok since.
I'm only labouring the point because with std 15 inch brakes it makes a difference.