Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

Can confirm, car indeed brakes alot better, noticeably more overall power and still locks front before rear. Thanks for the advice, saving up for some decent pads now as advised :^)

I was confident you would like it. I've been doing it since the 70's 😁 Really pleased for you mate.
I live in a forest and have mixed road surfaces before I reach tarmac and try as I might I could not lock the back wheels first even in the wet.
Try yours in the wet on a straight road just to make sure yours don't lock the rears first.

Fitted new rear link arms, finally. 

Not too bad a job except one of the bolts to the hub was banana shaped, probably from an accident where my dads missus binned it at 10 garaged.years old and only 4k miles on the clock about a week after he bought it... :'^(

Straightened the bolt with heat and a spare bit of harness bar from my mates L200, in the vice and managed to get it back into the new arm and wheel hub afterwards, obviously this isn't great so ordered another couple of bolts and will take it easy until they arrive. Torqued up under load as per CJJ's guide on here.

Old parts were inspected and although they looked like they'd been in the sea forever, there was no play in them but there was a noticeable creak on the subframe side when I put the in the vice to test, and whilst the hub ends had no lateral play, they certainly felt very loose in articulation, unlike the new ones which are impossible to move by hand.

Probably well overdue replacement, although if I'd known they were available I would have gone for the adjustable ones perhaps and had a play with the camber etc.

Anyway, the car had these fixed length ones on originally so thought I'd fit them and hopefully it won't disturb the tracking too much, as I want to replace all the bushes and ball joints and then go take it for decent 4 wheel alignment a bit later and not pay for it twice.

Car feels a bit tighter in the back end and doesn't creak all the time now, so worth doing if only for finding that banana bolt :^)

also went to look at my new front subframe, whilst my mates TVRV8 Westie was in for MOT - all oil pickup issues sorted with that btw, was defo sump clearance causing the oil pressure dropout under load. Drilled out the oil pickup around the pickup shroud with 8mm holes and put a cork gasket back in, holding decent oil pressure now, about 2.5 bar. with a new set of king race bearings we fitted the other day,. Thanks for advice! It sounds absolutely glorious, and pulls like a train but it should do for approx 10mpg...

TF Subframe is in decent nick, just surface rust and comes with all parts attached, arms, ARB etc -  apparently its been on the top racking in that unit since about 2006 / 2007 when they broke one and was forgotten in the mists of time. Got it for £20, just have to wait for them to get around to pulling it out, then going into the winter projects pile...

Anyway, new link arms (RGD000571, as opposed to adjustable ones RGD000570)






 

You are doing a great job on your car mate. One job at a time but being very thorough with all you are doing.
My alignment seems ok the way the car drives and tyre wear is even but I too want it checked but like you I am waiting until I change the shocks.
I want to drop it by 10mm which will add a miniscule of negative camber front and rear but will throw the tracking out.
Those adjustable rear camber links are good to know about but personally I would prefer to adjust the front camber. I know you can get adjustable top joints to induce neg camber but it means an alignment so if I go that route it will be when I change shocks but the money jar empties fast!
That subframe is a good buy, if it's only surface rust it will clean up and paint nicely. I have switched from Hammerite to E-Tech chassis paint. It just sticks and gives a real nice factory finish. A bit more expensive but worth it.
Glad your mate got his oil pick up clearance sorted. I've been through it, not on an engine I built , but still got involved.
I'll follow your progress with the car cos you are a younger version of me..but don't dare think I am old.
Good luck.

Haha that's an honour I'm not sure is deserved TA, but thanks nevertheless. Thanks also for recommendations on the chassis paint, will give it a try

Sorted out the Airbag light on the dash,  splicing Pin 16 to Pin 12 on the Instrument panel connector behind the fuseboard.  The downside of the later black Instrument pod in an earlier car, the airbag light stays on regardless of the state of the SRS system, but now goes out with the Engine Management light.  

Continuing the MOT fudgery,  couldn't find any signals that would do the same for the ABS light (Don't have ABS, Just a warning light),  could get it to turn off briefly but would soon come back on,   in the end, took apart the instrument pod and covered over with some Black Tape (Old School) 
 

Almost finished my colouring in on the rear; just needs Clear coating.
 

 

That's looking good!

You have done very well with that paint.
Was the later dash a difficult transplant other than the airbag and ABS warning lights ?

If you have TF with Pektron , then its a Straight swap over , You'll need the correct instrument pod to Fuse board loom.  MK2 MGF and Early TF's,  Is possible but you'll need to make up the connecting loom. I was half way through doing exactly that, but came across a a Full 2004 TF harness for cheap,  So in the end changed the car from Lucus to Pektron 

That's where the ABS issue comes from, The car is all wired for ABS and is expecting it to be there,  But as i don't have the ABS Pump or correct Hubs that's a no go currently. 
 

Changed the gearbox oil. 
I always use Millers oils for everything. Fabulous oils and they are from Yawwwkshire too.
I let it drain whilst I had a bike ride so 3hrs later it was bone dry. I had raised the car on one side to make sure it was as empty as it could be.
You can see how much I forced in there.

   

Had an eventful day today on the F, started off fitting a 52mm throttle body and TF Brace in the rear


Then changed the T-Bar for the TF one running new wires for the speakers and fitting the windbreak
     

And while i was doing that i printed some door pockets in PETG filament and used heavy duty velcro onto the carpeted door panel 
   

All in all a great way to spend a day, tomorrow is wash, polish and hoover day

That looks really good Alec. The rear speakers make a lot of difference to the sound es[pecially driving along with the hood down.