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Another pair of broken disc retaining screws removed... done 2 discs ..3rd was ok with stainless pins in which I did last year...1 more wheel off tomorrow to clean last disc and check for broken pins....today's job pictured below.

mgtfbluestreak wrote: wrote:

Another pair of broken disc retaining screws removed... done 2 discs ..3rd was ok with stainless pins in which I did last year...1 more wheel off tomorrow to clean last disc and check for broken pins

Is there a howto on this? Several of my set screws are sheared off, both on one corner which has always worried me. Helicoils - I know nothing about them. Have you used stainless hex screws?

I used a2 grade stainless pins pictured below....

There is no need to use helicoils if you dock punch the broken pin bang centre and drill out using small drill bit working up in size...the hole in the hub should be..m8....but seeing has I had plenty of a2 grade pins in metric 6x1...I used my helicoil set to allow this fitment....a helicoil is a insert which can be screwed into a pre tapped hole...so if you drill your holes out and your metric 8 tap is a bit sloppy ...you can then use a drill bit normally about 2mm larger and tap it out with a m8 helicoil tap...then the insert is screwed in bringing the hole back to standard size...confused????

If these screws are breaking, I wouldn't use Stainless screws, better to go for high quality high tensile screws and a proper anti sieze compound

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BruceTF135 wrote: wrote:

[Is there a howto on this? Several of my set screws are sheared off, both on one corner which has always worried me. Helicoils - I know nothing about them. Have you used stainless hex screws?

The how to is in the advert picture.

talkingcars wrote: wrote:

The how to is in the advert picture.

Thanks, that is very helpful. But what is the idea of the hammer and punch in the second last picture?

I kind of get the idea. Drill an oversized hole, tap it, screw in the helicoil to leave the correct thread in place. Sounds simple enough in theory but I suspect that in practice it is not so easy. To me, the hardest part would be drilling the first hole through the broken screw. It must be hard to get it straight and central, bearing in mind you have to do it squatting on the floor with a hand held electric drill. I'd like to try it myself but I suspect that it's probably a job for my mechanic.

In theory the old method is to dock punch a hole centre...and drill through with a small bit giving you a perfect guide for the next size bits...has basically it makes easy drilling and doesn't wreck those bits.....but ok everyone is getting older and getting that punch centre is getting harder to see.....I noticed that after the countersunk heads had broken off.....that the brouen pin sat below the surface of the hub....so by using a larger drill bit to start...say a 8mm....just make a impression but no more....this touches the outer edge of the hole and the impression gives a perfect centre...start small and work up....just done last 2 pins and it took less time than the can of lager I drank to go down my neck....pictures of today's pin drilling coming up.

At the bottom of the new thread is a tang that the threading tool grips to wind the thread in.

Once in you give the tang a sharp blow with a hammer and chisel to snap it off.

I did this on a spark plug on my wifes ZR after the previous one blew out of the hole.
On the rear brakes you can hold the disc in place with the hand brake.

When I had broken studs on the discs I found a couple were easier to clear than expected, I started drilling with a 3mm bit to create a pilot hole but the broken studs wound out the back of the hub.

Firstly remove the road wheel,disc and caliper.....don't bother if you don't have the correct kit...I tried a set of easy outs with left hand drill bits because sometimes they may just spin out...not today folks.

I then got a assortment of bits and my helicoil kit to hand.

It's all about control while drilling and totally useless at high speeds ...a slow control and lubrication on the drill bit pays off.so I used my dewalt drill has its more controllable.

Using at least 3 drill bits to cut a quick hole through the pin.

I didn't have any drill and tapping oil to lube the drill bit with me today so I used what I had to hand...a small amount of chainsaw chain lube did the trick...it makes a world of difference....allows cooling of the bit and quicker cutting.

Another 2 pins drilled out today and I will use the word doddle.....I even thought why be in my garage doing this....I could of gone out and about and done it in a scenic location...like up the peaks.....then I remembered why ...because I'm still on sorn till may....ha well at least those broken pins have gone...yipee
But don't forget folks tip of the day while doing the front hub is watch out with brakes removed that hub will just spin...so it's best lock it up by putting a bar between the studs...because when that bit snags in that pin the hub will fly around with your wrist connected to it....and make sure the bar is fitted to stop that Hub spinning in the correct direction...I used a breaker bar.if using left hand bits lock the hub has in pic and opposite if using right hand bits.....

Normally the tang break off tool comes in the kit...pictured below is the tang break off too...marked with yellow arrow.

After years of putting up with a stain on the rear plastic window, I decided to have a new screen fitted, brilliant, bringing the hood back to pristine condition. The first screen lasted 18 years, so fingers crossed for the next 18!,