Topic

Not sure how you could test the pressure without tapping into the fuel line - then you would need to know what a normal reading would be.
I know the evap canister returns unused fuel back into the tank which should pressurise it slightly. You should get a hiss when you push in your fuel cap to vent it.
May be worth replacing the evap canister or even the fuel pump. Fuel systems are not my strong point, but maybe there are some non return valves in there also which could be acting up.

Sundance

mot achieved, no advisories again, so all good

Gavin207 wrote: wrote:

Changed my gearbox oil last night ( TF115), despite being pretty level, it took 2.5 litres ( book says 2.4 L dry, 2.2 L on refill), and still didn't appear to have reached the level plug. Anyone else found this when changing gearbox oil?

I did a gearbox oil change on my TF135 a couple of months ago - I got three 1L bottles of MTF-94 oil, and there is about half a bottle left (difficult to be exact as the bottles don't have a level indicator). So I would say about 2.4 or 2.5 litres went in, but that did reach the plug level.


Changed the fuel filter last weekend .....

next job = brake fluid change.

Fuel pressure is measured on a fuel pressure test gauge, generally speaking, you connect this to the fuel system.
There are various methods of doing this, most common is:
To remove the fuel feed line to the fuel rail temporarily fit a short bit of fuel hose to the rail, a tee piece to the rail, fit the fuel feed and test gauge to the other barbs of the tee.
Some cars have a dedicated measuring point on the fuel rail that has a screw on fitting incorparating a schader valve, you hook up a special adaptor to the test gauge.
Other cars are measured at the outlet of the fuel filter, using an adapter the will screw to the threaded fitting of the filter.
Of couse there are other methods employed by various manufactuers, but are unlikely to be employed here.
I can remember which method I used on my F when I had the intermitent fuel probems (dying fuel pump) but it would have been either the fuel filter or tee piece methods, whichever was easiest to get at.

Only yeaterday I used mine to test the fuel pressure test gauge on my Ford Falcon ute.
Here's a pic of my test kit.

You wont need a kit such as this, there are affordable basic kits available.
If you are looking to buy such a kit, be sure to check that it's for fuel injection systems, the are lower pressure test kits for curburettor systems.

Following guidance from Sundance I'm just testing to see if I can now add photo's to my posts.

Starting with the latest addition to the front of the TF.

Hope this works.

https://i.imgur.com/DtAyFei.jpg

Squashman56

Squashman56 wrote: wrote:

Following guidance from Sundance I'm just testing to see if I can now add photo's to my posts.

Starting with the latest addition to the front of the TF.

Hope this works.

https://i.imgur.com/DtAyFei.jpg

Squashman56

You are nearly there Squashman, at least the link works ok.
Use the copy tab to the right then paste it in your text as normal....see pic below matey.

Sundance

I just normally take a photo using my mobile...and then press attachments below and then select add files...and from your gallery select photo and then the insert icon press submit and you have done it.


Action 3Select your photo from your gallery and then the insert icon


Finally submit post has normal

Foggy start but a lovely sunny day...so out came the tf..first time in natural daylight since October. ..started on the button and purred like a kitten with no ecu faults....time for a good spit and polish has its nearly time to get out and about.

Sunny Day, so decided to take the TF out for a quick blast and take a few photo's for the Forum.









Squashman56,

Cobber wrote: wrote:

Fuel pressure is measured on a fuel pressure test gauge, generally speaking, you connect this to the fuel system.
There are various methods of doing this, most common is:
To remove the fuel feed line to the fuel rail temporarily fit a short bit of fuel hose to the rail, a tee piece to the rail, fit the fuel feed and test gauge to the other barbs of the tee.
Some cars have a dedicated measuring point on the fuel rail that has a screw on fitting incorparating a schader valve, you hook up a special adaptor to the test gauge.
Other cars are measured at the outlet of the fuel filter, using an adapter the will screw to the threaded fitting of the filter.
Of couse there are other methods employed by various manufactuers, but are unlikely to be employed here.
I can remember which method I used on my F when I had the intermitent fuel probems (dying fuel pump) but it would have been either the fuel filter or tee piece methods, whichever was easiest to get at.

Only yeaterday I used mine to test the fuel pressure test gauge on my Ford Falcon ute.
Here's a pic of my test kit.

You wont need a kit such as this, there are affordable basic kits available.
If you are looking to buy such a kit, be sure to check that it's for fuel injection systems, the are lower pressure test kits for curburettor systems.

mgtfbluestreak replied...
I own a fuel injection preasure testing kit with the gauge ..pipes and fuel connectors with the safety valves inline.....it was sent wrong has I wanted a oil preasure kit....but we'll I kept it and got a oil test kit aswell.....the k series is a interact engine so fuel preasure possibly could be read from a diognostics ...I tried my torque app but it didnt support it...just showed the gauge.

Unless there is a pressure sensor fitted to the fuel system, an OBD reader wont be of any use to measure fuel pressure, use the proper test gauge.
You'll be able to find the required pressures in the workshop manual.

Fitted a new hood with glass screen today, nearly finished and looking good. Lessons learned:

Should have bought 30 off 3.2mm x 16mm black rivets, 20 not quite enough
A piece of small bore brass tube and a hammer useful for seating the rivets to make sure they are tight before riveting
A pack of m3 x 20mm bolts and nuts useful for holding the hood to the rear bow before riveting so as to get everything lined up before replacing the bolts one at a time
40mm werbbing from the market identical to the existing hood webbing ideal for the two additional straps required to support the additional weight of the glass, £3 rather than £24 from Rimmers.