I have tried to upload a video in the past but without success. My recollection is that, at the time (and this was with the previous version of the forum software), videos were not directly supported. That is probably still the case. I had to upload my video to YouTube and link to it in my post. If you cannot do this, maybe someone could do it for you if you send them the video...Can you download a video off your phone ,Ive tried a couple of times but just a photo appears Len
OK. I'm volunteering! Send me a PM.
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I have a 2004 TF 135. It has a PRT and I have always assumed that it is standard for the car.
I have to confess to knowing almost nothing about the jiggle valves. I assumed my car must have one (or more) but I have no idea where it is or what it looks like! I remember from the thermostat in my Austin A35 that it had a strange little dangly metal bit hanging through a small hole in the metal ring around the stat. I never knew what it was; was that a jiggle valve?
What I can say, with some degree of certainty, is that water pumps into the expansion vessel right from starting the engine. It can be seen quite clearly with the pressure cap removed. I have assumed that this is normal.
Does this help at all? It's chucking it down now, but I am happy to check it out if it answers any questions.
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One thing I have found with my cheapie OBD2 reader is that, with my MB Vito at least, although a fault may not be detected, it can still sometimes be cleared with the 'clear faults' function.No fault codes were indicated and I wasn’t expecting any.
I had electrical gremlins that caused all sorts of problems including preventing the vehicle from starting. The OBD detected no faults but clearing them anyway enabled me to start the vehicle and get it to the garage.
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Are you sure that isn't orange/black? Brown is usually much darker.My bad, the wires are actually brown / black which is live with ignition & a black earth. Did Japan spec have anything different, my headlights have rover Japan part stickers but I dont have any history for the car to confirm.
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I was about to suggest you do exactly what Airportable suggests. If you get a low coolant alarm kit the instructions will direct you to use this route. No need to remove The-T-Bar. No need to remove the engine cover either, unless you need to get at the reversing light connections.
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When I lock my 2004 (Pektron) TF with the fob there is a big click and lots of flashing from the indicator lights. I assume this is superlocking enabled in some kind of automatic mode. AFAIK, you can't turn this off with pscan. I've got enough trouble with my locks as it is: the EKA doesn't work, the interior lights sometimes take 30-40 seconds before coming on etc...
We really do need a supplier of reconditioned RHD driver's side locks!
That brown and pink wire is getting snipped at the first opportunity!
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On my 2004 TF 135, before I got a pscan, I had mixed success with cheap ELM 327 OBD2 readers from eBay costing around a fiver. I have one that works with the TF and one that doesn't. The latter isn't faulty though because it works fine with my MB VIto.
These readers communicate with the phone, via bluetooth, running an app called Torque. Bluetooth is the problem here for iPhone users. My understanding is that Apple, in their wisdom, chose not to implement bluetooth in the same way as others.
One solution would be to pick up a cheap second-hand Android phone specifically for use with Torque and your chosen OBD2 reader. You wouldn't need a sim card, just download Torque via WiFi and away you go.
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I might be a bit late joining in with this post. I'll be catching up over the holibobs 
I have yet to take the plunge with a remap but I fitted a non-standard exhaust and daytime running lights a few years ago. My insurer at the time declined to renew my policy on account of the mods. However, I had no problem at all getting perfectly reasonable quotes from other companies through a comparison site having entered details of the modifications in the comparison. I ended up paying about the same as before.
So, the tip that worked for me was to make the changes shortly before renewal. Then, get on a comparison site once, or even before, the mods are completed.
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The thing is, a remap from KMaps is appealing but, having bought pscan, the SAWS remap is an even more attractive proposition being £100 less expensive. Plus, for us southerners with a pscan, we don't have to drive halfway up the country to get the job done.
I have also looked on the SAWS website. There seems to be little information about the pscan map. If you click on the 'buy online' button, it takes you straight to PayPal. No option to choose the vehicle appears. Given the talk here of poor communication, I'm not about to make the payment.
On the subject of remaps, both SAWS and KMaps show dyno graphs for the TF but, being unfamiliar with this witchcraft, I have no idea what they mean. The SAWS graph shows 2 lines. Presumably one is bhp and the other is torque but it is not clear which is which or how they compare with the standard. The Kmaps graph shows 6 lines but this isn't clear either. Presumably, it is trying to show an approximate power increase of 10% and torque increase of about 50%. But why are there 6 lines on the graph?
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Try searching for campervan lining 4 way stretch. that stuff is very similar to carpet. There may be some that is quite thick...It may be better to do each side in 3 pieces a strip each side with another panel in the middle overlapping the side bitsas I said I'm still kicking ideas around. I can't sew for shit so that pretty well leaves a cut a sew method out.
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