Topic

"Commmander.......Have you tried looking inside the locking nut cap removal tool, the little black plastic tube. I must have put mine in there so it was safe, then forgot where I'd put it. The language was rather blue when I stripped the car looking for it.... "

Thanks Smudger69, although I have the plastic tube thingy, my nuts (mmm) are the McGuard type so have never used the tube holder. Garage, car, pockets, rubbish bin, all searched now 3 times with negative result. Now over to Rimmers website.

Thanks for the pointer to the heater valve but it all seems dry.
Did find that there is a slight weep from the stat housing and potentially from the inlet manifold.
Collected a dead tf135 subframe rear end and that will donate the nice alloy manifold etc. Whilst I'm sorting that I can attack the stat leak

Blow-in wrote: wrote:

Just ordered the spacer LQZ100050 and the genuine screw FS108255M from good old Rimmers. Needless to say the P&P exceeds the cost of the items but I might as well do it properly.

Richard

The bits arrived from Rimmer's today.

For the record the spacer is 12mm long (9mm internal diameter). The screw is M8, 25 mm long and with a 10mm hex head and comes preloaded with a locking compound. The torque required is 10 nm or about 7.4 ft lbs.



As fitted:




Richard

Fitted an air scarf to the drivers side and actually drove the car first time in weeks can't believe how good it is, need to do other side now and get some vents not sure which can anybody recommend any ? Also does everybody's washer bottle lid come off, ohh and drained the water out of the window screen motor

jelly wrote: wrote:

Also does everybody's washer bottle lid come off,

Nope. not mine.

David Aiketgate wrote: wrote:

jelly wrote: wrote:

Also does everybody's washer bottle lid come off,

Nope. not mine.

Nope nor mine.

mgtfbluestreak wrote: wrote:

David Aiketgate wrote: wrote:

jelly wrote: wrote:

Also does everybody's washer bottle lid come off,

Nope. not mine.

Nope nor mine

Mine neither. Although it does seem quite loose!

At the weekend I did all I could to try to make the throttle cable easier. No luck. Too sticky for safe driving so did some more claying and general cleaning. Off to Rimmers again.

BruceTF135 wrote: wrote:

mgtfbluestreak wrote: wrote:

David Aiketgate wrote: wrote:

jelly wrote: wrote:

Also does everybody's washer bottle lid come off,

Nope. not mine.

Nope nor mine

Mine neither. Although it does seem quite loose!

It must have gone on somehow in the first place.

Invalid or non-existent item ID.

Decided to replace my injectors since I had a reconditioned set, and the car still has the flat spot during acceleration at about 1500-2000 RPM. So cleaned out the stepper valve as well, new HT leads and general tidy up. All good car started first time idle was smooth, result!... No.... when the car warmed up idle at 2000rpm.

Ok disconnected the stepper valve hose from the throttle body and could hear is sucking strongly. blocking the pipe killed to engine so no other air leaks causing it. Reset the TPS. no difference. Ordered new Stepper, old one jammed open. When it arrived replaced it all great, good idle but flat spot still there. So decided to take the car out for a run, now it refuses to idle at all. Did TPS reset etc still nothing, warmed the car up and idle was there albeit erratic and the revs would drop off to almost 0. Oh well can't harm, decided to reset the the engine management, disconnected the battery took the opportunity to clean up the contacts and the earth connection, waited about half an hour and reconnected the battery, re synced the key fobs and started car, idle perfect.
Still good idle a week later and throttle response good with the cleaned injectors. Flat spot still there, this is really baffling, the internet is full of people with similar problems but no one has come up with a clear fix. I need to get this sorted pulling away from junctions can be traumatic when the bogging happens, lifting the throttle can help but not always so not sure if too much fuel or air.
To date I have changed. Coil packs, HT Leads, Cam sensor, MAP sensor, Plugs, cleaned all connectors, Replaced the throttle body with 52 mm version, induction air filter, new fuel filter. I have a new lambda sensor, coolant sensor and crank position sensor left to do. Lambda sensor will go on the new stainless 421 exhaust when it arrives. ODB gives no faults, although the temperature seems to read a bit low (86 to 95 during normal driving, outside temp 25 degrees) which could cause over fueling, I do get the occasional backfire after the bogging down.

Long post, Sorry, any one experienced this? Any confirmed fixes?

You seem to have covered most variables, have you checked the plug caps for internal corrosion. There's a spring in there that can get fouled up and causes intermittent misfires.