Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

Just replaced my Pektron scu as m rear fog lights stopped working . Three day turnaround from posting to recieving back . Great service by Technozen . All sorted now 

So I got a bit further on the engine removal yesterday, it appears that i may have some rust on the gearbox mount bracket !
 

Luckily I have a galv one that came with the subframe.


I also think i have found the source of the engine fan issue, as whatever nested in there had a go at the loom
 

I am assuming this is where the ABS sensor was connected, you can still see a lot of the mess from the nest. This will all be cleaned up before the engine is refitted.

 


 

I treated myself to a pair of tall axle stands from SGS, excellent value for money,  here is a link

I managed to jack the car up, and now the engine is free to be wheeled away, once i have made a small trolley for the front of the subframe. The starter motor connectors look a bit rusty, is there a good way to clean them up?       

This comment links in with your discussion on the heater pipes. As you have the engine on the deck, take a look at the “”transmission tunnel”” closure plate. It’s a pig of the first order to remove with the engine in place, if you need to replace a gear change cable, for instance; a seized nut can set the job back by days (daze), creating consternation continually.
Taking it off & a dob of copper slip on the treads could be a great help at a later date.
The white/red wire above the fuel inertia switch, what did that service?
M

The plan is to to remove that plate, as i am going to re paint the engine bay, when i have done some rust repairs. Then i was going to inspect the heater tubes with an endoscope while i had access.

Which wire are you referring to?

Daedalus wrote:

Which wire are you referring to?

@Airportable is referring to this wire:

 

These are the wires for the ABS sensor, something had chewed them, they have now been soldered back together, heat shrunk and wrapped up with amalgamating tape.

So i got all of the screws out of the tunnel cover bar one. The person who designed the cover is a genius as they put slots in rather than holes, so i manged to wiggle the cover off the last bolt.

I managed to get a pair of mole grips on the bolt and, and success, it got it turning. However, my joy was short-lived, as the nutsert it screws into was turning, so they will need to be drilled out and a new one fitted.

 

Thank you both. It is unusual to see solid colours on “modern” car electrics, other than brown & black. White & reds like these are a shorthand for left & right in audio equipment, I was wondering whether you were into “bangin tunes”. I guess this has been grafted on to obviate the rodent nibbles.
Good stuff.
M

Red & White are the standard colours, for the rear L/H ABS sensor.
 

Well bugger me !! I never knew that, obviously. That makes me look monumentally dim for someone who has spent a considerable amount of time poring over those diagrams. I have spare sensors & have had that lot out, all be it a while ago.
Anyway thanks for that, I’ll not be so noisy next time.
M

Please continue to be noisy. The only reason why I am silent is that I am learning from others.

Now i have rolled the engine back, I can finally see how much remedial work is required on the ends of the sills, the offside one is worst, so i cut some of the outer sill away and remove the rotten part of the end.

A bit of work is required on the bottom of the subframe mount, but not too bad.