Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

There’s something about early cars; orange indicators, black windscreen surround?
I’m not sure what makes it so, but there’s a maturity about them.
Very few in this condition will remain & the chance of seeing one out & about, particularly with a black hard top, a combination which draws the best out of the vehicle, would be slim.
I like mine with the clear indicators, next back end though, I might return the body coloured surround back to black.
M

Lovely car!

Gave it a wash. ⅞
The Yellowstuff pads are dusty but fortunately it comes off easily. No need for wheel cleaner. 
Ready for a nice long run. 
 

After failing to get the cam belt done I cracked on with a few other jobs. 
Oil and filter, air filter, new rear drop links, new bushes for the dampers, then I got to work on the brakes with giving the calipers a refresh with a coat of paint and new stainless bleed screws and banjo bolts, new slider pins, made and fitted spacers for the tie bar from a how to on here, discs and pads and new hoses to go with the new pipes. 
And I gave the subframe a bit of tlc.  

Wow that looks really good under that wheel arch! What paint did you use
A job very well done.
Good luck with that bolt too.

That's a very tidy job.

+1 Good luck

 Headlights buffed. Combination of an el cheapo flea bay kit and a previously used Autoglym 3000 grit/ buffer and compound.
Quite pleased.


 

That's come up very well

Over the last month or so.

I've done the engine coolant rail,  although I've completed that twice now, after putting it all back together, it was leaking at the thermostat,  I took everything back off and noticed the O ring from the block poking out.  Ordered a new Thermostat from B&G,  which popped straight in without argument, a different experience from the cheapo one off eBay.  Lesson learned there!

Swapped out the plastic inlet manifold for an alloy one. The Alloy one came from an N Series engine,  had to swap over the wiring from the old manifold, as the K and N Series have different connectors to the ECU,  all the other connectors are the same,  Fuel return rail was missing,  the one from the Plastic manifold didn't quite line up with the mounts, don't know if that's normal for the Alloy inlet or change on the N Series, easily solved with a addition of a washer.

Replaced the Oil Pump,  I'd recently done the Cam belt, so this all came apart nicely,  even the lower pulley came straight off by hand.  Oil pump off and new one fitted,  in under an hour.  Put it back together, and rotated the engine to check everything and one tooth out after two rotations,  reset all the timing marks, and rotate.  Timing goes out again,  and repeat a few times, same result.

Gave up and went and wrote some code for a barcode scanner to automate our shopping list instead, until my frustration disappeared

This time, Perfect, timing stays in check, the difference being the right-hand side of the belt was much tauter than in previous attempts.

Coolant tank changed over for one ready for the OEM level sensor.

And it won't start! , Gone from Leaky engine that ran OK,  to nice and dry, but no go.   Plug in computer,  all sensors reporting ok,  toggled the outputs to fire the injectors and Coils,  audible noise from all of those, so probably fine,  Spent a while trying to work out what I'd touched that would cause it not to start,  eventually disconnected one of the fuel lines, and dry as bone. put 12V on the fuel pump, and nothing.

Replaced fuel pump yesterday,  started first time!,  and still no leaks.  

That leaves me with the SRS Light to sort (Quick bodge required as it's a later instrument pod) ,  Same for ABS light (I don't have ABS, Car thinks it does),   New set of Tyres, and it's MOT time.

I actually remembered to take at least one photo this time. So here's an oil pump




 

There’s a lot to be said for putting a job to one side & engaging in another pastime, especially after a frustrating time spent on an even more frustrating job.
The greater the annoyance, the longer away
& the sooner a satisfactory resolution on your return.
There is, in all probability a formula for this conundrum, I’m taking a week off I hope that will suffice.
M

Hi so how many rotations of the engine did you do until the timing points all lined up?
I've just done the belt etc on my TF, had to rotate the engine 4 times before it all lined up correctly.
Would you think that was excessive?

Two rotations of the crank is an entire rotation of the cams,  all should line back up after just two rotations of the crank,  making sure to rotate clockwise.  I did a couple more afterwards to ensure it stayed in time, but that was more for me than the engine needing it..