Topic

Good stuff: just throwing it out there for those who may be unaware.
The insulation temperature rating has to be taken into account also: I think auto cable is generally 125 degrees: which gives around 20A capacity. Conversely, 70 degree rated insulation is good up to only 10A for the same 0.75 conductor csa.

richandpaula wrote: wrote:

David Aiketgate wrote: wrote:

As above, check that plug under throttle body/inlet manifold area.

You mean the crank sensor? - or is there another 'plug'?

There's a multi plug that supplies the injectors with power.

Have you checked that relay in boot i have mentioned a few times the loom also earths to inner quarter with a 8mm bolt the only reason i mention this i had a customer a few years ago who had a similar problem.The car had previously been smashed in the rear passenger light quarter.It had been repaired but the wire got crushed in between the body on impact and was never rectified,hence the fuel pump sometimes primed but when the wire shorted on body it didnt, probably not the problem but worth ruling out a relay problem.

Also right on top of the inlet manifold to the right there is a multiplug it sits directly under the rear body brace, check one of the 4 wires as not rubbed against the brace and split, i should have mentioned this before i had a few customers go over heavy bumps the engine jumps up and gradually over time breaks the contact on one of the wires where they rub on brace.
This will not be found on a MEMS 2 inlet manifold only on a MEMS 3 which you have.

I admit defeat - I'm out of my depth and don't know what to do any further.
The car can stay in the garage.


i'll put the kettle on instead...2 sugars?

The problem is probably something annoyingly simple like a bad electrical ground or connection. I trust none of the fuses, grounds or connections have any sign of corrosion?

If your getting desperate and have checked all the connections and grounds maybe it's getting time to start to consider the weird and wacky possibilities.

There is a dirty trick that involves stuffing cigarette papers in the fuel tank.
The ciggy papers drift about in the tank, intermittently blocking the fuel pick up.
Now I'd say this is unlikely, but could there be something else drifting about in the tank doing the same thing as the ciggy papers?

Here's another off the wall suggestion, the ceramic honeycomb core of the cat convertor can sometime break up, blocking the exhaust, this can cause intermittent problems as the broken pieces bounce about. The scientific method is to test it with an exhaust back pressure gauge. (good luck finding one, they're fairly rare. I've got one but I'm a bit far away in OZ) Or you can use the common method which is to put the car up on stands, crawl under and give the exhaust the good shake, you should hear the core rattle if it's broken.

I would like to see the fuel filter pipe disconnected when the car won't start. We need to know if it's getting fuel when it's in the no-start sulk.

Might be time to get an expert to look at it. I'm sure Russell would find the problem.

Thanks guys,
If i'm honest, we've not done anything really since testing that the fuel pump is getting an electrical feed and doing the test drive and managing to replicate the fault.
I've not changed / fixed any of the boot brake light wiring as I cant see how that can be effecting anything.
Can't think for the life of me how it seems to be it fails to start when it's been warmed up?

Temp sensors somewhere?

Have to admit - i'm at a loss now. It's time for plan B.
But I have managed to replace the snapped drivers door handle last night

Where the bloody hell do I get a fuel pump from on a Sunday???

Mg rover spares, sealand road, Chester. Open Sundays.

Cheers Andy,
Phone number? Link??

Ahh - gottit.
http://www.chestermgroverspecialists.co.uk/


Edit: Bugger
Phone number changed to 01244 819 776
No answer - closed on sundays

I've got a fuel pump

Now to go fit it....