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Sorry chaps , I’m keeping silent on this. I’m MEMS2J & I don’t fully understand what goes on.
Other than “the integration of the voltage signals returning from the various sensors making incremental computations via the segmented ECU, these calculations are then fed to the actuators which govern these incremental changes to create the optimal performance for each driving requirement “
Blah, blah, blah, Blah. Have you got that? Relatively straightforward. Eh.
M
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Im not sure who of the regulars is versed in MEMS1.9 stuff, Airportable perhaps.
BTW not sure if you are aware but SAWS are now doing MEMS1.9 remaps.
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Hi all,
Hope all is well. I have a 2000 MGF 1.8 120bhp with MEMS1.9, and I recently ordered an Emerald K6+ ECU for it. Unfortunately, I neglected to note that the MAP sensor for MEMS1.9 is a part of the ECU itself, and with the starting map I was unable to start the car fully without tweaking the IACV values. besides that, although I have acquired a wideband sensor+controller and gauge I have not yet installed it due to the welding required. Is there anyone who has a similar setup and was able to get it working, maybe even provide me with a map file that might help? I do have tried the base Rover K1 preset, but the car runs too rich, 12.0 to 11.0 AFR idling. I am eventually planning on taking the car to be tuned on a rolling road, but I was wondering if someone had a tune and could help me with sensor calibration.
Thanks and i hope you have a nice day,
Kind regards,
Matteo
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Fuel pump relay is part of Engine Management Relay Module. This module consists of 4 relays put together in one box and is located at the rear of the engine ECU. One of these 4 relays if fuel pump relay. There is no separate fuel pump relay on your car.Unfortunately I'm in Perth. but thanks.
You don't happen to know where the Relay is located, or maybe it does not have one?
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Thanks Cobber, most thorough response for me to follow through so will print out. Due to an upcoming trip in my Motorhome over East shortly it will now have to wait for my return next year.
I will post my response then, once again, thanks.
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The relay module you seek is hiding behind the bracket that supports the engine ECU in the engine bay on to LH side.
It's probably easier to diagnose the relay at the fuel tank unit, beside the engine cover (under the dead dog) there is another circular cover with 4 screws securing it. hiding under this is the tank unit, unplug the electrical connector and with you multimeter or test light put the + probe into the plug terminal with the White/Purple wire and the - probe to the terminal with the BLACK wire........if you have power all is probably well with the relay and earth header ( I say probably with no load under this test you may get a result but under full load a poor connection may fail )
Now if you get a poor result, you need to check the earth header to do this take your - probe and earth it to the car's chassis and place your + probe to the terminal of the WHITE/PURPLE wire of the plug.......if you now get a good result you can suspect the earth header as your problem.
If you have power at the WHITE/PURPLE wire you should have power to the fuel pump.
The GREEN/BLACK wire is for the fuel gauge.
Now connect 12volts + to the terminal on the tank unit (where the WHITE/PURPLE wire would connect) and earth to the terminal (where the BLACK wire would connect) now see if it is pumping fuel....if not suspect the pump
As your car isn't a TF, don't waste time looking for that fuse 23 previously mentioned, it's only relevant to TFs
Now let's assume that you've decided the relay is OK and you suspect the pump itself.
You need to unplug the fuel lines and then remove the big collar nut that secures the fuel tank unit, one you start to with draw the unit you will find the float unit for the gauge won't let it come all the way out, ther are a couple of screws to remove securing the float assy to the tank unit to allow the tank unit to be fully removed from the tank.
Once out check the the 4 wires in side the tank unit, the RED wire is the pump +, it's companion BLACK wire is the Pump -.
The BLUE wire and it's companion BLACK wire are the for the gauge
Also check all the terminals in the tank unit are all OK and not broken or corroded.
If all that seems well, replace the pump!
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Unfortunately I'm in Perth. but thanks.
You don't happen to know where the Relay is located, or maybe it does not have one?
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Yes, several times.
Only relay mentioned for MGF Mk2 is the Engine Management Relay Module and as everything else it controls works I doubt it is that.
No mention of any fuses at all.
Relays located in the back panel only show on the MGTF section.
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I don't know what inlet manifold is on a 135, but I replaced the stat on my 97F using a working combination of above and under the motor. It's very awkward but do able with patience and determination both of which are necessary when working on these cars. The job will be much harder if the 135 has an oil cooler!!
Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Glyn.
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Indeed I had been reviewing this potential job and Hd03txk come to the conclusion that it might be possible to release the heater hoses from within the car but that is not a 5 minute job and with limited working space possibly better done in summer when there is potentially less chance of poor weather and more outside dry storage and working space.
But thank you for the suggestion it confirms the possible option.
As I gazed into the area beneath the coolant expansion tank it became very clear that access to the area around the thermostat is “limited” if not restricted. I have read the “how to’s” on servicing the thermostat and marvel at how anyone can get access to that area without. Removing the inlet tract which would be a whole new ball-game if that lot has to come off.
So my thinking is that I might just renew the bits I can get to and hope until the HGF fails which it may well do in due course.
My suspicion is that if I disturb one joint around the water rail associated with the stat one of the others is likely to leak and who knows what corrosion has taken place where the stat connects to the engine or at the hard metal pipe ends.
Can anyone offer experience in any of these areas please?
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