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Crumpets, just fine. In fact an excellent idea, kippers would have every dog & possibly cat for miles around chasing you down the road.
M
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I have, it’s not difficult. The thing to do is dispense with the clock & fit a matching pressure & temperature gauges. Standard 2”/52mm gauges go straight in, a union doubler is required, either as a screw in/on adapter. I prefer a sand plate, however not all sandwich plates are equal, some Chinese offerings don’t have the correct thread form.
If you go ahead & require more info we’ll cover it later.
M
Brilliant idea about the clock! Why? Cos mine doesn't work!
Then I will be swish cos I've never had an oil pressure gauge and an oil temp gauge.
I have a Landrover VDO 52mm oil pressure gauge in my MX5 using a centre air vent.
Kippers? Was thinking more of crumpets..
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I've taken mine out to feed cold air pipe from the N/S engine vent, but first I will clean and paint suspension support and other bits in that area. Yes I was surprised at the amount of room in that area.
Glyn.
That's my plan too to clean up as much as I can in there as nobody else ever has!
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It’s a useful space to warm a couple of kippers on your home from work & straight on the table with some fresh bread.
M
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I've taken mine out to feed cold air pipe from the N/S engine vent, but first I will clean and paint suspension support and other bits in that area. Yes I was surprised at the amount of room in that area.
Glyn.
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I have, it’s not difficult. The thing to do is dispense with the clock & fit a matching pressure & temperature gauges. Standard 2”/52mm gauges go straight in, a union doubler is required, either as a screw in/on adapter. I prefer a sand plate, however not all sandwich plates are equal, some Chinese offerings don’t have the correct thread form.
If you go ahead & require more info we’ll cover it later.
M
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Hi Airportable has given the correct info on how to remove airbox apart from the fact that there are two tap tight fixings. Glyn.
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BTW..M....Iused to have a Man from Uncle Spy kit...
BTW...has anyone removed the oil temp sender and fitted a Ptessure sender and changed the gauge in the panel?
Maybe it's not a pressure take off point.
I'll have a look tomorrow.
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I notice you have calliper spacers for bigger discs..280mm route?
I'm going that way and wondering whatsort of upgrade it is as far as stopping power. I will also fit harder pads.
I don't have ABS.
Thanks..
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Does the main hub nut undo the regular way, anticlockwise, on both sides ?
Yes, both sides are conventional right-hand threads. I see that there is only one part number: (RFG100090 for "with ABS" version)) for the TF front stub axles, which confirms that the threads must be identical.
I did the LHS earlier today. The only difficult job was, as on the RHS, the lower joint, which was just as rusty. A liberal soaking with WD40 and the near vertical cold chisel helped. I suspect that the design of this joint is to blame. There is an open slot which water, mud and other corrosive road grime will enter and soak the pinch bolt + the hole it sits in.
My strut worked on the LHS with minor modification adding a cut out on the flank to make it ambidextrous.
As you can see from the photo, this strut gives plenty of headroom to allow the balljoint taper on the top balljoint to be removed and re-inserted after the bearings have been replaced.
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Thank you!
I did remove the spigots on the left which allowed me to lower it the tadge that I needed to get the cone in but I could tell something else was holding it.
I will be able to see better once the engine cover is removed..my 10mm ratchet spanner is at the ready.
Thanks for your insight from deep within your inner knowledge of all things MG.
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I don’t recall it being a “Man from Uncle” job but there was a peg type fitting, similar to a “taptight” push in to fix device, hiding in plain sight.
From memory it’s a flattened dome at the left of the box closest to you, a screw which joins the rear air duct in place, one on the bottom of the box & it lifts out from the remaining plastic locating spigot, from a rubberised mount.
However, I did prefix that paragraph by saying, “going from memory”. You have to decide whether you feel that what is left of my memory is reliable enough for you to follow.
You are then left with the cradle, which could also come out.
M
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I fitted a Pipercross cone filter today from the boot area. I removed the hose from the throttle body, the top part of the airbox and the filter element to be able to get it in.
It was a struggle to get the top of the air box out but I managed.
I left the bottom part of the airbox in situ until I road tested it. I'm not a boy racer and if the intake noise was too loud I would put it back to original. I can live with it.
So now I can remove the lower box and trunking.
What holds it in please?
Tomorrow I hope to remove my engine cover for the first time to fit Bruce's Low water Alarm kit so will I be able to see from there what holds it in? Or is it an under the car jobby?
Many thanks..
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Ebay £40.00 or £125.00 new from mgfntfbitz.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286114718855?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=7101533165274578&mkcid=2&itemid=286114718855&targetid=4585169654799848&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=412354547&mkgroupid=1305120599331881&rlsatarget=pla-4585169654799848&abcId=9300541&merchantid=87779&msclkid=80ee17222fed19490d47700c0a54fdfb
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Oh yes, when I said floating ground that is exactly what I ment. Any route (or root, that’s for an early morning Cobber, he’ll understand), would have to float or fuses WILL splatter & no amount of upping the value will overcome that!
M
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