Get Connected!
Come and join our community. Expand your network and get to know new people!
That roof looks like it needs a deep clean, if it was mine I would start with my jet wash to give it a deep clean blast..
Read More...
No, but I might do the Friends Round London trip on February 15th/16th. But only if it's dry.
Read More...
PRT was used starting from VIN 622951 which corresponds with date 13/08/2003.Is there a specific VIN or date, when the PRT was taken into use as standard?
Read More...
I did the same when I first got car. The old oil was very black.Never done it myself but heard that some put in a cheaper oil for a few miles before changing to the preferred oil for the longer term.
The theory is that anyhing loosened after the flushing change is disposed of with the first change. Might put your mind at ease and reduce the flushing oil concentration even further..
I got it hot and drained it, put in some cheap 10w40 semi-synthetic, drove the car for half an hour or so, drained it again, changed the filter and, finally poured in the good stuff.
Now, the oil comes out fairly clean with every oil change.
Oh, and regarding the tappets, if I leave the car standing for a while it tended to be a bit tappety until it warmed up a bit. At the last oil change, I put in some Wynns Hydraulic Valve Treatment and it seems to have helped.
Read More...
I would walk straight past it! By the time you've chucked enough money at it to make it reliable, you would in all probability find a good engined rot box for less, You would also end up with lots of collateral to sell or use to replace less good parts on your own car.
M
Read More...
There's no point in discussing ''standard'' with me, standard things inspire me to change them & lean on route.
Roverlike is the fount of all update points & chassis numbers.
M
Read More...
Its Copper leaf, i had just been over it with a clay bar given it a cut and polish, then topped off with a ceramic coating which is why there's masking tape over the trim
Read More...
The corrosion that I can see might just hone out, but it's what cant be seen is where the problem will be, we cant see where the rings have been sitting against the bores, and that's where the worst corrosion will be, right where the rings will have trapped collected moisture against the bores. you won't know how bad, bad is until you disassemble the engine, so assume the worst case scenario and factor that into what you offer.
Read More...
Well if it were mine I would clamp the liners, give the bores a clean with wet & dry and oil then see if the motor will turn using the crank nut. But make sure you mark the pulley's and the block first, you've not got a lot to lose.
Good luck.
Read More...
Soething like these tan edged seats with grey cloth could be a good variation on a theme in which case
sebring
Read More...
It would be sensible to factor in the cost of a good 2nd hand engine and see if it still adds up. No harm in trying to hone the bores first in case that works but ensure the price you pay for the car will still work in your favour in the event of having to call time on that engine.
How reaslistic is the seller likely to be and have the explained why on earth they just removed the head and left it like that without protecting the bores ?
Read More...
I have been offered a 1981 vvc that I'm interested in restoring BUT!
The car was taken off the road due to head gasket failure, the head was removed a few years ago and the liners don't look great 😒
Can I hone this or am I just kidding myself?
Read More...