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Well the bad news is my car still has steel pipes fitted, and they are showing signs of corrosion little flaky blistered patches on the out side (the insides will no doubt, be worse)
So I'm afraid that I'll be needing the nice shiny new SS set I have.
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Just looked at the Rimmer's catalogue diagrams and the non-air setup doesn't have the pulley.
Apologies if I caused you concern.
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Ah, aircon. That's the difference. No aircon is a straight loop.
Thanks for letting me know. I would have thought mine had fallen off!
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I’ve managed to pull up a circuit diagram & although it’s a bit, no, it’s a lot of a squint, if the horn honks with the alarm, then the relay in the multifunction unit must be closed. This implies a circuit from the fuse, through the relay in the MFU, allowing the voltage enabled by the alarm to sound the horn.
The horn buttons are in parallel with the alarm & so the clock spring assembly should be checked.
You have a meter, set it to continuity & with one end to ground & the other to the header 0288 (K109), press the horn button & you should get a reading of the spring is working.
I can’t help you with the header whereabouts, I’m still on holiday & working on my phone!
M
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No, it only works on the top; square edge to square edge. Even if it would open wide enough to go onto the bottom link, the motion of the round area it would sit on would ping it off...
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Ah! I wasn't fully understanding the complexity of the problem. The alarm is sounded with the horns so my logic was that if the horns themselves work and the fuse is OK the rotary coupler was possibly faulty. I had thought that the alarm sounding when you lock the car might have been the sort of blipping that car alarms used to make all the time when they were armed. In my '04 TF, there is a fair bit it clicking and the hazard lights do a bit of flashing when I set the alarm.Many thanks for the link. I'll pop the wheel off and have a look.
The coupler wouldn't explain why the alarm sounds as soon as I lock the car. I assumed the horn not working and the alarm sounding where linked ?
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Wouldn't that turn a soft lead pencil into a hard lead pencil? or is that how you put lead in your pencil?whilst wearing them ?
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Hi try soft pencil lead run it up & down the zip the graphite lubricates, I've used it on trouser zip in the past works fine.
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Mine is a 2002 TF and definitely has a tensioner pulley associated with the alternator (ancillary) belt.
It has air con & don't know if that makes a difference. 18.png
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Yes that’s the monkey. They’re a sod to get out & you have to be methodical, don’t just pull once you have the fixing hardware removed.
This job was the first “technical” job I did having just bought it. It had a long MOT & absolutely no chance of passing one if I were to have offered it up for test on the day money changed hands; the horn was just one failure point.
As I have mentioned I have recommended changing this unit to others, with varying degrees of success, it was however the fault on mine with no shadow of a doubt. They were buttons when I bought my replacement, as with all parts, “The only way it up”.
Bitz’ is in all probability your best bet.
M
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AUTF02, was it the timing belt that you changed and found the tensioner or the alternator belt? I thought there was no tensioner on the alternator belt?
We sprayed the alternator belt with the engine running and that stopped the rattling.
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Hi Airportable, is it's the part numbered 67 on this drawing that you are referring to?
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Next is to get the horn working so I can book the MOT. I'm doing lots of research as it appears there are a number of causes for the horn to not work.
I also have ugly sealant around the rear lights which I need to remove.
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The trouble with liquid sprays like WD40 is that they are wet and can attract dirt to clog shit up, try a dry silicone spray lube it quickly dries out but leaves a dry silicone reside that keeps the surface lubricated.
A word of caution, try not to get this stuff all over your paint work, it's bloody hard the get off and it's an absolute pain in the hairy botbot to try a repaint over the residue!
You can tell if there is silicone residue on your paintwork...... you get strange looking pin holes forming in your paint as it dries, the only solution when that happens is to remove all the paint layers down to below the silicone layer, a good reason not to use silicone polish too!
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