If HDPE then it suggests it is a welded tank construction rather than bonded. From what I can read it will not withstand temperatures approaching 80 degrees C.
It can be prone to cracking.
My suggestion would be the magnetic fishing rod even if you had to put water in the tank and slosh it around a bit to get the rust close to the magnet.
Failing that try dilute HCl and wait for that to dissolve the rust before pumping that out and starting a caustic wash followed by lots of water until pH neutral. Stand back when changing from HCl to NaOH though so I’d give it a good rinse before introducing the NaOH.
Not a simple process.
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Does anyone know exactly what the properties of the fuel tank are, i.e what are the materials of construction/which particular plastic.
I definitely would not use dry ice.
When dealing with rubber lined storage tanks the life span was seriously affected if contaminated with traces of organic materials.
So there will definitely be things not to use.
If "the words of wisdom" passed down the food chain by "the elders" is such that time alone leaves the tank marginally smaller then I can only imagine that the use of copious volumes of warm air passing through the tank will aid that process. But if it is too hot it may have a detrimental consequence.
(Pour boiling water into a fizzy drinks bottle and watch what happens ~ it shrinks and becomes far less pliable).
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Clearly there are hazards associated with the residual fuel.
So here are a couple of thoughts. But please note I have not seen any MGF or TF tank or looked at drawings.
First, if you can see the rust is it not possible to clean the tank in situ one way or another?
Second if not and you wish to shrink the tank could you blow hot air in (down a hose from something like a hair dryer) and then “close” all openings and let it cool - but watch it cool to make sure it does not shrink too much.
it will probably cool quickly.
Worth a thought?
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Thank you for detailing this and the clarity.
As I will probably attempt to renew the coolant hoses this is very useful information for me.
I am a little puzzled why there is a need to remove the air hose for the additional bleed. Is that to aid access or something more fundamental?
As I read and it and try to ensure I have all the detail in this procedure can you also clarify the following please?
After completing the initial bleeding steps and allowing the engine to cool experience suggests that any residual air collects in cavities that can be vented by releasing the bleed screw in the water rail. Is that correct?
Have I understood correctly that the additional bleed is performed without starting the engine?
How long should it take to release any residual entrained air? In other words how much should I expect to have to top up the header tank please?
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On a totally different forum a member who is totally familiar with MOT testing ( where as one part of his role he does or has done audits) makes frequent contributions. There are too many to record on here but here is one. I have removed the preamble.
If your car is submitted early for an MOT and it fails, (on a dangerous fail and is marked as so), the original certificate remains in force, but the one you have just been handed as the dangerous fail now means you are knowingly driving a defective vehicle, a road traffic offence. It must not be driven. Please don't confuse a fail with a dangerous fail as they are completely different, the fail allowing the vehicle to be driven away.
Hope that adds a bit of clarity.
Personally I would expect that if you knowingly drove a vehicle on the road that would fail an MOT with a defect that you considered might be dangerous you would be negligent and potentially liable for any consequences.
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There appear to be multiple responses to be found if trying to “search” on this topic so please accept an apology for raising this again.
I believe that the hoses that join the underfloor pipes are starting to fail. I believe this as occasionally the level in the expansion tank falls. If the clamps are tightened another turn and the tank topped the problem is resolved for many miles/days.
There are no signs of leaks on the floor, and no white smoke on start up, and no mayo in the oil whatsoever.
So, as this TF135 has the thermostat at the head rather than PRT would the panel of wise men recommended changing all hoses and converting to PRT, and if so how difficult is that, or would you stick with the existing arrangement with thermostat on the head?
I am of the opinion that on a high mileage car and changing just one or two hoses would be either pointless or irresponsible.
If changing hoses it gives an opportunity but if would not wish to try something that is not necessary or too difficult to sensibly achieved without expanding the work scope.
Suggestions please.
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Might be a “tad” heavy at the rear end.
What about fitting a Subaru Impeza engine in it instead. With 4 wheel drive that would be something.
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So if this is the correct gasket my question remains. Is it stuck down with sealant as I struggle to see how a hard plastic sheet with a few ribs in it over a large area can ever form a reliable seal.
So if anyone can shed light on this I would appreciate it.
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As there are signs of oil around the spark plugs I decided to order a gasket with intention of replacing it later this year. Bought one described as “original” rather than “after-market”. This is known as camshaft cover gasket and has part number
Not sure exactly what I was expecting but definitely not a preformed plastic sheet type of thing.
Has anyone fitted one of these, and if so was a sealant of some form used?
I had thought it might be a traditional fibre gasket or a rubber gasket but definitely not a pre-moulded hard plastic sheet.
Any comments please?
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Sometime ago I was interested in a kit car. So leaving out some of the detail the basics are as follows.
The kit supplier recommended a tyre and related their experience.
They had one brand/model and size of tyre fitted. They liked it, they liked it a lot. When those fitted to the demonstrator wore out they purchased direct replacements.
The replacements were nowhere near as satisfactory as those they replaced. The tech gurus from the supplier were summoned.
They took those tyres away and ground half the tread off and had them refilled to the demonstrator.
Performance was restored!
The reason is to be found in the fact that vehicle weights have increased and to match that thevtyre manufacturers changed the compounds that the tyre is made from, and thereby the way the blocks in the tread twist when cornering .
So, it matters which car the particular model of cars the tyres are aimed at.
Pay your money takes your chance.
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Don’t forget the small cross-bar that sits on top of the compliance bush. As far as I am aware it is prevented from metal to metal contact by a rubber/polymer additional component that is like a thick washer sitting on top of the bush that is pressed into the metalwork of the compliance bush assembly.
Could it be that polymer washer that is missing/damaged?
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I would tend to agree with that. Aas stated I considered doing this job for various reasons and accepting various recommendations from people who had worked on my car.
I obtained some spare bushes (metalwork) and cut out the rubber bits . Those needed more than a gentle tap to get them moving. I made a timber support to hold the one with the angled base so it could be supported in line with the axis of the press - very useful apparently as stated by the workshop that did the job.
The workshop had one heck of a job in getting the bolt out of one of the bushes - don’t know which one. As stated one of the nuts used to support the subframe had to be replaced as the bolt sheared off (not unusual apparently).
As observed by Goodwood the new bushes made little if any difference that I could detect.
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