Thank you for the report back on your experience. That is helpful.
As stated in my initial post I have tried everything in my armoury to shift the nut let alone the actual rod in the fitting. So I am at the point of raising the white flag and surrendering to the local garage. I don't have anything other than a small blow lamp to heat it up. But I do have spare links that I will ask the garage to fit and ideally I will service the arms that come off. It should be possible to reclaim everything one way or another by buying a spare assembly from ebay just to get hold of a replacement screwed rod if it is needed. Yes I believe the ball joint ends are available. The "rocking horse" part is the rose/swivel joint at the inner end. Reclaim that and we are "cooking with gas".
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Many will know that the long link assembly is located in the centre of the car under the subframe . It is secured there with a torx bolt (M10 x 65mm and that bolt engages into a welded on nut.
Can anyone please tell me if that bolt was fixed from coming undone by using loctite please?
I’m seeking to remove and potentially replace the long link on the driver’s side. If I can get it off I may be able to re use part of it.
At the moment the M10 Torx is “reluctant” to free off I can sense some twist as I apply the socket set etc but no movement the bolt is stuck fast.
At the same end the lock nut on the long link (abutting to the swivel/rose-style joint is equally stuck fast.
I have had some heat on that and plenty of plus gas etc. It was last moved earlier this year but will not budge now despite copperslip on its thread when tightened up.
So, was loctite a factory fit on this torx bolt in particular?
And any ideas for the lock nut please? Of less importance if I can get the M10 torx bolt out.
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Re #210606
Thank you Bruce, that does help.
In my pre PRT I have not detected such a flow. There are three routes in as far as I can see Two from jiggle valves and one from the water rail local to the stat or more probably the stat itself. Until I get better access I can't confirm that.
I have seen bubbles come up into the expansion tank once before not long after having to top it up (part of the reason why I'm investigating all this is to overcome the potential drips from hose joints).
As the 4-way "T" arrangement does not seem to include a "jiggle valve" whereas the "up and over hose" does I expect to see that flow Bruce describes unless there is another valve "somewhere" that I can't locate/define.
So if anyone else can confirm what Bruce has reported that would be good.
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A bit of an update.
I have two door locks available to test (one I removed following a “machine gun” experience and another that I aim to fit as I can’t get superlock working with the one in the car.
So with the connectors lightly gripped in a workbench I tested for continuity between pins with the door locks available open then closed and locked/unlocked.
What I could not confirm with repeatability was the presence of continuity between the pins associated the micro switch that comes into play when using the key (or the same switch that would be activated when the quadrant is moved electrically).
When testing I felt that sometimes there was continuity and sometimes not.
So perhaps that switch is used to indicate one part of the sequence and if it’s continuity switches on/off that would presumably confuse 5AS and create the “machine gun” condition.
Just a thought even if I can’t see a simple solution
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Limited or almost no experience with MGTF engines but I agree with the use of flushing oil first. That worked a miracle on a Vauxhall engine with noisy tappets. It also cleaned out a small Peugeot engine system for us soon after buying a 106 for daughter’s first car.
I’d try that first Len, drain it out whilst hot and re fill with oil of your choice after a filter change.
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I’m with you on that one Cobber. I nearly replied what is f—-book.
But thought better of it . Never joined that band of brothers but may have to give in and swallow pride.
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An update
I bought one of these off that well known “auction/buy it now” market place.
MS309PRO Car OBD2 OBD Scanner Auto Code Reader Engine Diagnostic Scan Tool UK
i plugged it in today to see if it had any response. It seemed to work. Battery voltage test indicated 11.8. At the battery with a multimeter it measured marginally over 12 (it is now back on trickle charge).
No fault codes were indicated and I wasn’t expecting any.
So hopefully as a glove box simple test tool it might do what it is intended for.
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Happy New Year to one and all!
Cobber, thanks for engaging in this. I get what it’s for when it is a small hole in the thermostat.
The floating valve giggle system located at the engine close to the thermostat is intended to pass any entrained air to the expansion tank. The ball then floats in the coolant before sealing with minimal flow (if any) passing through it.
In the pre PRT cars there is another in the “up and over” hose at the other end of the engine. In the PRT cars there is no “up and over” hose it is not required and uses a 4-way “T” piece. In that case water has an unlimited flow path to the expansion tank unless something else is included instead.
If there is something to include what is it please?
Is that restriction needed or is free flow vital .
It would be very helpful if someone with a factory fitted PRT could report if there is a small steady flow across the tank from that small hose to the expansion tank once up to temperature from the 4-way T.
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I think the purpose of the particular jiggle valve nearest the water pump (not the one in the thermostat itself) is to vent air. Some will argue that the ball should be removed to stop it blocking up.
In the earlier system (pre PRT) I suspect the other jiggle valve in the “up and over” hose is to stop it being air locked.
But it would vent any air too but with the ball sealing the vent it would prevent circulation.
So, if it is not fitted in the 4-way system there must be an unrestricted flow to the expansion tank. Exactly how vigorous will no doubt depend on the fluid dynamics.
What I am seeking is someone with a PRT fitted as standard and to find if there is a jiggle valve in that small bore spur from the 4-way T to the expansion tank, and if there isn’t is there a continuous flow when the system has reached full operating temperature.
Anyone help please?
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It is the TF135 that I wish to convert to the PRT system from the style where the old stat is on the end of the water rail and slips into the engine close to the bottom of the head on the off side.
So my question is basically why do I not need a second jiggle valve?
Did the later TF135's fitted with a PRT have a 2nd jiggle valve? If not why not as they must have experienced water squirting into/across the expansion tank.
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As we all know the later design of the thermostat is the "PRT".
Prior to this the thermostat was located at the cylinder head. With the early system it included two "jiggle valves" (one at the cylinder head and one in the up-&-over hose close to the other end of the cylinder head where one hose join the water rail).
The PRT system retained the jiggle valve in the cylinder head, and we can debate the usefulness of that, but the other appears to be omitted. As the jiggle valve is intended to dispel air but seal against water flow that means that there must be a continuous flow of water to the expansion tank with the PRT arrangement via the 4-way connector.
Is this correct? If not where is the other jiggle valve please?
If no second jiggle valve should there be another restrictor in addition to the one that fits against the water rail to improve the flow to the heater? If so what size and where does it fit?
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Whilst cutting the wire will prevent superlock why is it thought necessary to do that?
My experience relates to the Lucas system but I suspect the details within the lock case are similar if not identical for both Lucas and Pectron systems.
I agree that if the lock on the passenger side ceases to function whilst superlocked then nothing that anyone can do will release the lock.
On the driver's side it is my belief that the key should overcome superlock (but you might need to disconnect the battery first).
If either lock has suffered internal component failure such that broken parts "jam up" a crucial part of the system or prevent a vital movement then it will not matter one bit if it is superlocked or not in my opinion.
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