Topic

Thanks guys,
Would a length of 0.75mm Stranded 7 core & earth stranded multi core be suitable for the boot wiring?

Thanks,
Just thinking here, but could water getting in the fuel tank / 'dirty' fuel somehow cause the non starting problems i'm having?

And if so, is there any way to test?

Car has started everytime, all weekend.
Hard to find a fault when it's not there...I've not trusted or had time to take it for a spin though.
(Busy watching our Neice representing Team GB in the under 18yr old girls 800M in the Ukraine - she came 5th! - Woohoo - Go Chelsea!!!)

Edit: Going back over events, I realised that on two occasions I had the car I drove short distances (10 miles) and stopped the car, going back to it within half an hour or so, and thats when it failed to start...so I may actually be able to replicate this not starting fault.
If it starts tonight, I'm going to take it for a 10 mile drive, put it back in the garage and come back after a cuppa...Odds say it won't start, so then I may stand a chance of finding the fault.

Sounds like a plan?

Anything equivalent to the wiring already used.
The water ingress scenario is very unlikely in your case, as the car seems to run fine once it's started.
I still think intermittent fueling problem.
Whether that's electrical or physical...

Try plug under manifold my car has stopped a couple of times and either releasing this plug and reconnecting or spraying with contact cleaner and reconnecting has cleared the fault this plug feeds injectors and coil packs and does not show up as a code


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That's a good point. Are the injectors getting electricity?

How do I check that then?

As above, check that plug under throttle body/inlet manifold area. Check for voltage at the plug on one of the injectors when engine cranking.

Saint Russell found the fault on mine, showed up as an error between the Crank position sensor and the ECU checked out the wiring harness between the two and found ok, new crank sensor and same fault. got a new S/H ECU from Daryl Cramer (MGF Reborn) and problem solved (Russell had to re-programme ECU then OK) In an attempt to check everything, I drained the fuel tank, replaced the fuel filter (second time) replaced the plugs for NGK (took out new bosch ones) replaced the leads, Coil and rotor arm and Dist cap. new lambda, new crank sensor and filled with premium fuel (Momentum) and it runs "just like a dream" very very very low emissions on MoT and exhaust pipes are very clean, I have now done about 1800 miles and am still using premium fuel Momentum or Shell. Be careful not to fill the cat with fuel as I did, by constantly cranking without firing, when it did start the cat caught fire and blew the contents out of the back of the car as "Silver Sparkle" Good luck Rich with yours.

Cheers guys - got a length of cable to replace the boot loom now, just need my 'sparky' to help out with that.

Well, 'she' has started both times i tried the key tonight so threw the engne & fuel pump covers back on and that's the 10 miles test trip done...Time for a cuppa and the dinner dishes then i'm expecting it to not start.

I'll report back in an hour or so...

David Aiketgate wrote: wrote:

As above, check that plug under throttle body/inlet manifold area.

You mean the crank sensor? - or is there another 'plug'?

Test complete.
Turned the key, the car started, ran ok...chugged a bit, then died.

So it looks like I can replicate the fault.

Now where to go from here?

Just a word about auto cabling from earlier: automotive cable has more resilient insulation with regard to mechanical strength and withstanding higher ambient temperatures such as engine compartment etc.

Using domestic cabling is not ideal. Using individual cores stripped from a domestic flex for example is well dodgy: the cores are designed to be protected mechanically by the outer sheath.

Many will know this: some may not. Here endeth the lesson.


Small amounts of auto cable: Halfords. Longer lengths: motor factor or auto sparky.

Thanks John,
I'm not using domestic flex.
This is industrial control panel wire and I'm keeping it in the outer sheath.