Cobber

Here in Oz we call that a shouldered bolt.
To get the broken threaded piece is easier said than done!
I just spent the last 2 weeks removing broken high tensile bolts from a large plastics shredder for a recycler. The machine is getting a thorough overhaul having spent the last 10 years running 24/7.

The best and most reliable method I've used is as follows:
I use a pneumatic die grinder with a carbide burr to grind the uneven breakage smooth (you could use a dremmel instead of a die grinder), this will allow me to use a center punch to put a punch dimple in the center of the broken bolt now using a small cobalt drill bit (@ 3mm or 1/8") in a pneumatic drill ( a good battery drill will do) I drill a pilot hole through the center of the broken bolt.
Next I use a lefthanded drill bit a size or 2 smaller than the bolt diameter...... as you drill in the drill should bite as it cuts into the bolt this will unscrew the broken bolt from the hole.( of course you use a left handed drill in reverse) If this doesn't work then I use a drill bit of the size that you would use to tap the thread ( example to cut an 8mm dia thread you would dill a 6.5mm hole, there are reading charts on the net to give you a guide as which drill size to use on the required tread tap)
I now carfully retap the thread to remove the old tread coils.
Should the tread be to damaged to repair by retaping I use a thread insert such as a helicoil or recoil brand.
But it is absolutely essential that you drill you hole in the center of the bolt.......get it off center and your in a world of pain!

There are various broken bolt removers out there such as the easy-out but you still need to drill the center of the bolt.... get it wrong and you'll break the east-out, you should NEVER EVER use an open-ender spanner or adjustable wrench to turn an easy-out, use a tapping wrench.


A better and more modern bold extraction tool is from a company called Alden, they make a tool called a Grabit Drillout, that is a cross between a left handed drill bit and an easy-out........ yet again you need to drill your hole in the center. And read the bloody instructions!


There are other so called methods out there but unless you get lucky they will probably cause more harm then good.....remember I do this for a living!

Alas due to Photobucket's greedy and extortionate policies There is no way to see the pix........as they've been holding the pix to ransom.
May the farts of a thousand arseholes fill every breath they inhale!

May Photobucket, it's directors and shareholders spend eternity in bankruptcy hell!

Turbos shouldn't make funny rattley noises!

As for driving to Melbourne...........That'd be the mother of all road trips!
With careful planning and preparation, not to mention several wheelbarrows of money and the time to put the rest of your life on hold, but it wouldn't be impossible.....unlikely but not impossible.

In fact you have until the 6th of August 2021 to get ready for this: London - Sydney 2021 once completed you can continue on to Melbourne ( I suggest the coastal route with a detour to Canberra and back to the coast)....Of course this is assuming COVID-19 doesn't stuff everything up!

I've always had sports and sporting cars I have a Triumph TR7 and a Jaguar SIII Sovereign, Ive had various Alfas and Fiats, muscle cars etc.
My family raced MGs and a Lotus, as well as muscle cars.

We don't have the rust issues, heat and sunlight are more of a problem here, plastics a rubber bits are probably more likely to deteriorate in our warmer climate combined with UV exposure, our sale values are higher and so are parts prices.
Our climate is probably more suited to open top motoring, however our summers are a bit to much at times so roof up and air-cond on, is often the order of the day!
ATM the weather here is a bit on the cool side, with snow on the higher ground. Roof up heater on!

Melbourne Australia here.

I dunno about now but there was a group called Friends Around London who held runs

Huge improvement