Cobber

So you've evicted the friendly spiders........... the ones here in Oz are bit more challenging as they are a little more belligerent, of course the evicting spiders isn't a big as a priority as the damned snakes who sometimes choose to take up residence in cars. Not to mention the menace of drop bears to unsuspecting drivers of open cars!

A lot of security systems use interior and boot light switches to tell if the door/ boot/ bonnet is open

Yes it will fit.
Debasing the value?................Our cars don't retain enough monetary value to debase!

sworkscooper wrote: Do I take it Cobber mi old mucker that you are encouraging Stefan to persuade his Wife / partner to allow him to use the cooker and freezer to fix his car ! ! ! Good luck with that one Stef . :-/

I did say: "I suggest you sneak into the kitchen whilst no one is looking" Under these circumstances the there should be no persuasion and/or permission required............what she don't know won't upset her!
I got my self a portable inductive hotplate from Aldi, to heat bearings that need expanding, I put a piece of 3mm steel plate on it, and the bearing on top of that.......it takes a bit of time but it's a bloody damned side cheaper than a bearing heater. It's too small for ring gears though.

The screeching starter could be the the big hint here, it's possible that the starter pinion ( the small gear in the end of the starter motor) isn't engaging with the ring gear of the flywheel and binding up causing an electrical overload.
There are probably damaged sectors on the ring gear, what you need to do to check this is remove the starter, check the pinion isn't mangled, then put it in a vice and connect a battery to observe that the pinion mechanism is engaging properly, (you will need to put it in a vice to secure it when you power it up, as the starter produces a shit load of torque and could injure you if you try to hold it by hand!)
Next check the ring gear........ using a glamorous assistant, rotate the engine at least one whole revolution by hand, whilst inspecting the ring gear through the hole vacated by the starter motor.
You are looking for chewed up sections on the ring gear.
4cyl engines usually stop at the two same places in their rotation every time they're switched off, so when started the starter nearly always engages at the same two sectors of the ring gear.

Depending on the mechanical aptitude of the aforementioned glamorous assistant, you may have to do the turning whilst they video the ring gear with a mobile phone.
A damaged ring gear will require replacement, you'll need to separate gearbox from the engine, remove the clutch (inspect the clutch and probably replace it while your there) remove the flywheel, now remove the ring gear from it, by cutting it between the teeth with a sharp cold chisel ( it's easier if you CAREFULLY drill through the ring gear to weaken it, without drilling into the flywheel!)
To fit the new ring gear to the flywheel, evenly heat the ring gear to @ 350C, this will expand the ring gear to enable you to press it by hand (use welder's gloves) onto the flywheel.
Some ring gears will have chamferd teeth on one side, the chamfer is to enable the starter to engage more easily, so this this side is to face the starter.
I suggest you sneak into the kitchen whilst no one is looking and using the oven to heat up the ring gear,it will probably change colour to a bluish hue, it wont hurt to hurl the flywheel in the freezer while you heating the ring gear.
Cooling the flywheel will cause it to contract, buying you a little more time to fit the hot ring gear.
Quickly place the hot ring gear onto the cooled flywheel, tap it into place with a copper or leather faced hammer if need be. (if you don't have such a hammer, you can use a steel faced hammer with a bit of brass, cooper or aluminum bar as a drift, so as not to damage the ring gear.)
Put it to one side to cool all by itself. Slap the whole lot back together.....happy days!
I cannot put enough emphasis on the fact that you need to move quickly once you take the ring gear out of the oven, getting stuck half on/ half off is not an option.

Of course, you may have two separate problems, an electrical problem as well as a damaged ring gear.

I've been having a lot of trouble with an exhaust gasket on my Ford Falcon ute, damned thing keep blowing out the normal composite graphite exhaust gaskets, I even replaced the exhaust components and still it keeps blowing out the gaskets........ enough!
So I went old school and made a new gasket out of 3mm copper plate:

(before annealing)
I will anneal it before I fit it, annealing is a heat treatment to soften the copper so as it will seal better.
3mm is a bit extreme, 2mm would've done, but I had 3mm laying about.

In the past, I've made head gaskets out of copper for vintage engines when there were no gaskets available for them.
They are even reusable when they're annealed again!
Sadly copper and alloy as used in our engines do not agree with one another, but copper is ideal in many heavy duty steel and iron applications.

I just thought I would post this, to plant the seed of of the idea in case any of you ever have serious persistent gasket failures in the future.
Just remember copper is no good with Aluminum!

mgtfbluestreak wrote: Hey fiddler...your a rolls royce guru hey.....the other day I found this rolls royce spanner in my van...don't even no where it's come from...it has a number on back e46634...do you know what it's for?

Exactly what if fits on a Rolls Royce..... hard to say, it may not even be for a car' considering there are Rolls Royce diesels used in marine and military applications, old military, marine and aero petrol engines, as well as turbine engines, it could have a variety of applications.
It's an adjustable version of the type of spanner used for this sort of nut:

It beats butchering them with a bloody cold chisel!

My understanding of the MGF aerodynamics is that the air comes in the lower air intake and through the radiator, but some actually pushes back out the upper grill, the idea behind this air duct kit is to prevent this by dividing the area behind the bumper into two sections.
Thereby pushing all the air through the radiator.
Unless there has been a new version of this kit, is that it only suits non-air conditioned cars.

Heat is but 1 reason, there is potential for fumes causing problems, engine bay aiirflow may be adversely affected, little to protect the occupants from boiling coolant in the vent of a cooling system failure or fire in the case of a fuel line failure and loss of body rigidity (you'd be surprised how much difference a flimsy bit of tin can make when properly secured)