Topic

Not surprised...

Do not drive with the liquid metal repairs. It is most definitely not structural and would be unsafe!

I am afraid only repair that will be safe now is to weld in nuts where the holes are!

As the car is un-driveable then you will either have to learn to weld...or get he services of a mobile welder to do it for you.

Good luck with it, sounds like a nightmare!

Watching this with great intrest as I myself have to undertake the same repair.
Lucky I work in an engineering company that undertakes engines repairs.
I do have my car in the workshop in a quiet corner so have all the equipment I need.
However any time I spend on the car means time away from home outside my working day.
So spending days on end with a car isn't really a good idea for family harmony.

Yesterday I ordered a welding equipment. Will have to try it first for practice.
BTW: I had learned a little bit welding 35 years ago when I visited a technical school (only for six months, as it was a mistake). But 35 years are a long time, aren't they? Then I'll cut out the three broken areas and weld in some new plates.
Fingers crossed...
Regards
Christof

What type of welder are you getting?
I have a basic arc welder that is virtually useless for car repairs.

This one:
https://www.hausundwerkstatt24.de/WELDINGER-Elektroden-Schweissinverter-E-181-eco
I'm confident it will work.
Regards

Not the easiest welder to use on car chassis. (Though this looks like a quality ARC welder) Need lots of amps for the arc, which then blasts through the steel. Also you are welding upside down...not easy!

I would not attempt repairs with one of these!

However make sure you get the smallest diameter rods you can find (1.6mm is available, but hard to find, otherwise 2.5mm), from a quality brand. Use the lowest amps that give a reliable arc.

Clean area to be welded thoroughly to bright shiny steel, and make sure you are onto solid metal before welding

Bit late now, but should have gone for a MIG welder. Even a cheap gasless one would be much easier than an ARC welder

David Aiketgate wrote: wrote:

What type of welder are you getting?
I have a basic arc welder that is virtually useless for car repairs.

I rebuilt a mini with one
They should be okay for subframe mounts.

I find that welding upside down is the easiest way of converting a perfectly serviceable welding rod into a pile of mild steel spheroids under where the welding was supposed to be taking place. I usually end up with smouldering clothing as well.

Airportable wrote: wrote:

I find that welding upside down is the easiest way of converting a perfectly serviceable welding rod into a pile of mild steel spheroids under where the welding was supposed to be taking place. I usually end up with smouldering clothing as well.

Oh the joy of "spatter" slipping down the back of your neck!

Once set myself on fire when brazing up an Audi exhaust. Molten brazing rod bits fell in my pocket, which had an oily rag in it. Didn't notice it getting warm. Only when taking off the goggles did I notice flames coming up my side!

Hate welding overhead!

Today in the morning a mobile welder fixed the three damaged threads. He welded in some long nuts. Took me about 90€ (~80 GBP) for 90 minutes of work, but I had doubts to do it myself.
Regards
Christof

I think a wise decision.

Safety critical repairs are not the best place to learn to weld.

Should be back on the road soon