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  • I asked a local car detailing company, that deals with leather repairs (no where near you though) to do a similar repair.
    They said the minimum charge would be £180, and if it needed "extra" work could be higher.

    Bought some leather cleaner and leather dye, watched some youtube videos :P and totally happy with the results ...... £25
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  • G0RSQ replied to the topic Logic check required in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I do not understand your new logic! :omg:

    You still need to get the crank pulley off.

    You should get it off BEFORE you take the head off, to eliminate the risk of dislodging the liners. Especially as you do not have a crank locking tool!

    Cutting the belt will not gain anything (except a small amount of time), as you still need to get a new belt on.
    You still need to remove the engine mount (or at least undue one end), to get the new belt in

    If you jumped teeth trying to undo the crank pulley (while locking the camshafts with the tool), then, unless you slackened the tensioner first, you have either a very worn belt (virtually no teeth), or a bigger problem. Correctly tensioned a belt in good condition will take an immense amount of force, and would likely snap before jumping, or stripping teeth.

    The aluminium cam locking tool would have also have gotten chewed up before the belt slipped a tooth! (I know because I tried it that way before getting a crank locking tool).

    You would replace the belt regardless of its condition anyway.

    Why are you worried about the timing of the engine now when you are about to remove the timing belt? With the head locked in the correct position, the valves are in a "safe" position, and I believe impossible for pistons to hit them (though not tried!) You would at least need to turn the crank 90 deg. before they came anywhere close, so a few teeth will make no difference (with the locking tool in place!!!!)

    Do not turn the crank with the head off!
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  • G0RSQ replied to the topic Logic check required in MGF/TF Pitstop
    If the cams are locked with their timing marks facing each other, and engine WAS on its timing mark, then in that position it is not possible for the pistons to hit the valves, so no damage should occure.

    I am sure you can not easily remove the head with the belt covers still in place. The rear one is a right pain to get off normally!

    Personally I would not remove the head untill the crank pulley is off, otherwise ther is a risk of turning crank when undoing, and potentially dislodging the liners.

    Spend your time taking the starter motor off, and releasing the offside engine mount, and changing the water pump...and any other jobs you can think off..
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  • Agreed, nice writeup, and sure to help many with such clear pictures and concise write up. :broon:

    However can I just add something very important that seems to have been missed out?

    When fitting the inside pad (against the piston), it is very important to ensure the pin in the rear of the pad is located inside one of the notches in the piston.

    This is to prevent the piston from rotating when the handbrake mechanism is operated, and also ensures the pad sits flat on the disk.

    Also worth cleaning up the exposed parts of the handbrake mechanism to help[ prevent is seizing up in the future.
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  • G0RSQ replied to the topic Ezi bleed cap in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Downside of a vacuum bleeder is the maximum pressure it can generate is -1Bar (or one bar below atmospheric). EZI Bleed can run at over 2Bar.
    With ABS you really need over 2Bar to open up the valves fully. It really does depend on the ABS system though.
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  • G0RSQ replied to the topic MGTF Damper Units in MGF/TF Pitstop

    Not cheap but a fraction of the cost of a new damper unit ,especially since the springs and dampers are usually ok .


    How confident are you the dampers are good? If they are how much longer will they last?

    Cheaper is not always the best solution.
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  • Check the EPAS setting.
    Jack up front of car on chassis. Start engine (or ignition ON) and center the steering wheel.
    Let go of the wheel, does the steering turn left/right/remain central?

    If it turns, then the EPAS can be adjusted quite easily.

    If it remains central, then you must have an alignment issue somewhere.

    Did you get a readout from the alignment? Four wheel alignment?
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  • G0RSQ replied to the topic Fog Light Mountings in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Those pictures look nothing like the ones on my TF.
    I Just sold a pair of fog lights and brackets on ebay

    The outer plastic surround is screwed/bonded to the inside of the bumper, and the lights atached with three screws/bolts.

    The adjustment is on the lamp itself, like the headlights.



    The MGF and MGTF lights and brackets are completely different from each other

    I do have a pair of new brackets also!
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  • I would eliminate the master cylinder first. There is a valve within it that is supposed to allow brake fluid back into the master after you release the brake pedal. That could have failed.

    When the brake peddle is released the piston in the master cylinder should move to a position that opens up the brake lines to the fluid resevoir.
    This is to both release excess pressure in the fluid due to brake heat, and to allow fluid to replenish the slave cylinders as the pads wear, and pistons move further out.
    Fault does sound very much like this is not happening, either through a faulty return spring in the master cylinder, sticking brake peddle not fully returning, or a damaged seal in the master cylinder blocking the fluid path from resevoir to the brake lines.
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  • Not sure about any additional safety features in the 2005 models,

    ABS and Passenger airbag were options throughout the range, so look for these.

    Also worth looking for four pot front calipers which give a marginal improvement in praking performance.

    I would advise buy the latest and best condition car you can afford, with as much service history as possible.

    VVC engines are more powerful and trophy/limited edition cars are likely to hold their value better

    Nothing is certain as cars are at least 17 years old so do all the usual checks on cars of this age.

    Head Gasket is not a myth, but if maintained shouldnt be a big concern. Not too expensive to replace, as long as caught before damaging engine.

    £3000 should buy a really nice car, but £1500 can buy a very decent car. Under £1000 if you dont mind getting your hands dirty :-)
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