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  • Airportable replied to the topic Demisting. in The T Bar
    Is it fair to follow this reasoning? The windscreen clears the fastest when the heater matrix is hot & the blower on max. First thing on a cold morning you only have the blower but if you push more air across the screen it will clear faster. However the blower is restricted to the voltage at the terminals, jack that voltage up & the fan runs faster, too much & it’ll blow. I have a similar motor on the bench at the moment running happily at eighteen volts & it’s no more than aired. Next move is a DC to DC up converter into a variable controller & dispense with the rotary switch.
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  • trevtherev created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I am hoping to sort out an intermittent fault that’s been plaguing me since I returned my tf to the road in the spring. What’s so infuriating is that it doesn’t seem to follow any rhyme or reason. As I drive along you get a sudden drop in power and the dash light all come on and off and what I can only describe as similar to limp mode. When you get to the side of the road and allow it to cut out, sometimes turning the key gives no life at all, but the second turn fires up and carries on as if nothing is wrong. I know they do not have limp mode such a mode, but it mimics the same characteristics. I have had the crank and cam sensor changed but still it hasn’t cured it
    I have linked Pscan and managed to bring up 3 codes (I do not have a/c or ASB fitted)
    P0500 – Vehicle speed sensor malfunction
    P1539 - Power to A/f clutch circuit over current
    P0562 – System voltage low
    Having had a chat with someone much better at car electrics than me, he suggested checking all the earth points.
    He suggested that maybe an earth is playing up, bearing in mind I’ve had both subframes out and the problem only began since putting it all back together.
    To date, I’ve cleaned the earth point from battery to wing, and the Earth point on the rear of the boot under 80A fuse. I appreciate there are several more to locate and clean, and this forum has a great listing of said earth points.
    He also suggested attaching an additional earth from the engine to body work and see, in the short term, if that cures the problem.

    Do you think this is a realistic avenue to follow?
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  • Cobber replied to the topic Speedo optimism in MGF/TF Pitstop
    The only good use of wood is shipping pallets, packing dunnage, Rolls-Royce and Jaguar dashboard veneers!
    It’s also the best material for making trees out of.
    Damned stuff is never straight, even if it is relatively straight it won’t stay that way, and until CIG makes woodcraft welding rods it will always be a bastard of a thing to stick together! :bust:

    I use a fine chipboardian piece for doing my horological duties on……
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  • Cobber replied to the topic Speedo optimism in MGF/TF Pitstop
    BAH-HUMBUG!”
    You used 2 “C” words…. One of which refers to wood butchery and the other to an obscene festival! :bust:

    Back to the matter at hand…….

    I was wondering how fast you could go in the lathe, obviously the faster you could get it to go the more accurate your fine adjustments will be. To optimal speed being a little above whatever the top legal speed is in your jurisdiction.
    Maybe a simpler way might be to use an old speedo cable in a fast drill or a speed adjustable die grinder in conjunction with an optical tachometer to accurately calculate the rpm.
    Another advantage of using the cable to drive the speedometer is that you are replicating the real world conditions.
    The problem I can see by using the direct drive in the lathe method is that you are leaving out the torsional twist and frictional drag factors of the cable.
    In regards to real world conditions, you would be better to rig it up in the car as that would take into account the frictional drag from all the various bends in the cable as installed.
    The reason the speedometer needle jumps about at low speed is the cable and it’s various bends, at higher speeds it still suffers from fluctuations but the higher frequency sorta irons them out and the needle can’t react fast enough so as you don’t notice.
    That then throws up the problem of getting to the speedometer in order to adjust it….. ah bugger it, I’ll just leave the bastard as it is! :bust:
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  • Thirty MPH in the workshop & that’s it. I’ve got more jobs on than I can work on at the moment & I’ve kitchen cupboards to build before Christmas.
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  • I too will dig the spare speedo from its slumbers & have a play. Firstly I’ll have to calibrate the lath, which runs on three phase, controlled by a inverter drive, to that end I’ll have to find some reflective opto switches (or reed switches), then I’ll have to rag an old calculator & link the 1 & + to a circuit with two optos & an off circuit to another. Then arrange them around the chuck having made an adapter for the speedo drive.
    OH shit you do it & I’ll just watch ! !
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  • sworkscooper thanked the user minimax in the forum post, Speedo optimism
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  • The later electronic speedo is just as optimistic.
    More so with 16" wheels than 15", due to slightly smaller overall diameter.
    Interestingly, a 16" wheel with a 205/45 tyre gives a much more realistic speedo reading, not that I'm suggesting using non standard tyre sizes.

    Personally I always rely on the gps speed on the satnav.
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  • The later electronic speedo is just as optimistic.
    More so with 16" wheels than 15", due to slightly smaller overall diameter.
    Interestingly, a 16" wheel with a 205/45 tyre gives a much more realistic speedo reading, not that I'm suggesting using non standard tyre sizes.

    Personally I always rely on the gps speed on the satnav.
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