As with a number of my jobs this one wasn’t finished off because it worked fine as lashed up. The Mk2, which was mounted in the same way but with improvements in geometry, a more refined fine adjustment rod to the latch. That iteration went when I sold the tf & I’ve been messing with other stuff, I’ll revisit it probably soon as looking at it this afternoon has reenforced its shortcomings.
The actuator obviously mounts to the latch frame, the latch rod is actually a piece of wire with a loop which shares the same hole through which the key mechanism boden cable passes. The brown drop plate is an odd bit of SRBP with a couple of holes drilled at centres equal to the centreline distance on both actuator & latch pull. Finally the screw assembly which serves as adjusters & wire clamp is a repurposed bike mudguard stay screw.
I should have swapped the Mk2 design from the tf but we were old friends & I was sad to see her go, it didn’t occur to me really until today.
I hope this helps sort out any mysteries Mike.

A note on the boot lock actuator. If you are using the type where a motor drives a gear train to operate the









linear section, try & use the last few millimetres of...

Yeah you need to check the terminals for the furry green shit.

It doesn't take much grot to create a high enough resistance to drop the voltage to such a degree that the electronics fails to work. The resistance formed by little bit of oxide can strangle the current supply capacity for starter motors & other greedy devices.

Yeah, mine is a mk2 F and has the later locks/ wiring that continued into the TFs. I'm not positive when they actually changed the lock wiring but probs around 2000.
I think it's just that many more of the later setups were produced, hence more...