Topic

yes i use a 10mm spanner with a ratchet flexi head....at the moment aldi are selling ratchet spanners cheap..which are good value for jobs like this

Butchery to save 5 mins every couple of weeks/Months!

Each to their own I guess !!

peter

I upgraded to the speaker box and adapted the way my cover mounts.

G0RSQ wrote: wrote:

Butchery to save 5 mins every couple of weeks/Months!

Each to their own I guess !!

peter

'Butchery'? The speaker boxes aren't damaged and could be replaced although using big rivets in plastic isn't how I would do it. I'd always managed to extract and replace the 3 'difficult' bolts using open and ratchet spanners but it is a fiddle (especially replacing) and put me off removing the cover unless I really had to. There are plenty of MGFs driving around without rear speakers, the way the designers intended.

Richard

Hi there, I changed my oil yesterday and replaced the sump plug with a magnetic one for good measure. So thats it for another year or 3000 mls

Started the work on my tf 160.
Thought I'd start on the easy bit of replacing the snout before I attack the leaking liner.

Well I found that it had had a nudge on the nearside which explains the different front and the fact it's silver under 0.030" of paint and not x power grey. But can anyone spot the missing essential parts??

Headlights

I should have said
Parts missing from remaining components!
There are two essential parts missing from the remaining part fitted.
Interesting that the car has gone thro' several MOT and the inspection following the Cat C repair.

Ian S wrote: wrote:

But can anyone spot the missing essential parts??

No engine?

I'll spare any agony.
The brackets that the main bumper bolts to are AWOL.
When I removed the bumper the two large bolts could not be removed and the front was only held on by the self tapper's along the top and under the wings.
So much for an inspection

I've been mostly doing my back in stripping the subframe, jeez some of the bolts gave me real aggravation. The NS compliance bush centre bolt was an absolute nightmare. I had a 1/2" drive knuckle bar AND a four foot trolly jack handle slid over it. In the end it tore the centre pin out of the bush but at least I got it all off and I can cut off the bolt. The bush housing wasn't much better to get off. The other side almost fell apart, flipping typical!

On the welded on rear discs. Sorted! Drill a hole in the disc, put a long bolt with a nut on the inside and let the bolt force the disc off against the hub carrier.

13mm bolt and nut, keep the bolt still and turn the nut until the disc cracks then use a wedge on tother side and off it comes.

More tips for rusted bolt heads. A 1/2" AF socket is slightly smaller than a 13mm. Tap it on the bolt/nut and it usually does the job, for 10mm bolts use a 3/8" AF socket and if all else fails you can hammer on a spline socket but you need to use the very heavy duty 1/2" drive set for this.

Second tip, go over the threads with a fine brass wire brush in a drill. Only use a brass one as it will dig out rust and dirt much better than the steel ones, then give the threads a squirt with white grease.


This compliance bush was the nightmare one.


I've left the engine and gearbox in situ to add weight and stability while cracking all the nuts and bolts, most of them are now either loose or removed.

Cheers

Geoff.