Topic

adamelphick wrote: wrote:

If it 'buzzes' do not super lock it! It could be the mechanism itself making the noise.... best to be safe.......

I added a key hole and lock internals from a manual locking 115 to Felix so if the mechanism dies I can still open it from the key on the passenger side.

Thanks Adam.....it's not the rat-a-tat noise I've heard with super lock issues but I don't use the super lock any way as it can be too effective (ie locked forever).

Richard

Exhaust fixed.

Out testing things in the Lake District.

OK so it's not the weekend but there was a dry spell today so I fitted my stainless steel alternator belt adjuster. I know there is a how-to on this already so here is simply a picture of the finished article and some fresh black waxoyl on the subframe (also in my hair - better than the grecian stuff!)




Richjard

This week, I fitted the Freelander Indicator/Wiper stalks which I'm very pleased with. I also sorted the NS wing indicator which seemed to have a load of grease in the bulb holder.... quick clean up and on it came... and off... and on

S

I have been mostly drilling and chiseling the rear hub nut in an attempt to remove the old hubs and replace with new hubs and drive flange.
Below is the result How tight do they need to be.

You won't be using that again.

today I fitted stainless coolant pipes and a new rad and stainless slam panel bolts,thermo strips mike satur bleed valve





..........My old rad was bowed at the bottom..no leaks but an alarming shape.on further inspection I found the fan cowling was distorted...this was due to the bowing of the rad and after time memorised the position.this was apparent when it did not fit the new rad .the distorted cowling meant the fan blades were shaving one side of the cowling .melted black plastic on tips of blades...so I bought another fan complete with cowling///and yes it fitted like a glove...I was told this bowing is caused by a head gasket failure........another theory being the aluminium fins at the bottom becoming corroded and expanding .a certain disaster would of been on its way if I had not explored the radiator condition ...my car is in very good condition and would of easily been overlooked..don't just glance through the vents because mine looked great when peering through ......do a proper inspection......the old coolant pipes were in great condition still had mg rover stickers on they were great internally and externally......well after everyone telling you your pipes need changing you get brainwashed into putting on stainless..........if you are considering fitting the mike satur bleed valve,please note there are thread variants on non genuine rads.........mine was drilled and tapped to allow the sattur valve to fit my new rad.....the new rad had a smaller inlet than the original rad........alternatively you can make a adaptor to mate the valve to the smaller rad fitting ......................last but not least it was filled with oat longlife antifreeze and deionised water .on an environmentally friendly note.........Halfords do this type of antifreeze with bitrex added this makes the antifreeze bitter to taste.......which helps prevent the likelihood of children,pets and wild creatures from drinking this otherwise sweet potion causing them harm ......a cool thought on halfords part....antifreeze even spilt in a puddle of water is a killer..

nice and clean with stainless bolts

AND TOPPED UP WITH A BIT OF THIS










jobs a goodun

May I ask where you sourced the radiator from please? Looks like we will be needing one soon for the 75th model assuming it all goes through.

I got the rad from paul depper mgs................Norton caynes near Cannock....along with a second hand fan I saw cheaper ones on ebay but I thought id rather collect face to face and get a rad that will fit first time...........has you may have heard some rads have been supplied on ebay with support legs in the wrong position..... ........................pardon the ignorance,but what do you mean by the 75th model

Couple of 'simple' jobs today.

Fitted a new alternator drive belt, which was dead easy because of the upgraded adjuster that I'd fitted previously.

And new gear cable rose joints, which should have been straightforward but after fitting them I ended up with only 1st, 3rd and 5th gears

On closer inspection of the new joints, they were a different length to the originals so I couldn't use the position of the lock nut as a guide to replacing them. OK, fair enough I thought, wind the lock nuts back a bit and screw the new joints on accordingly. Three hours later and much testing and I still had no reverse gear

Temper now seriously frayed. On further inspection with the joint off, I was about 5mm away from where I needed to be and with no more adjustment left on the cable. This suggested that my cable has stretched.

I ended up taking up the slack at the gear lever end and cutting the new rose joint screw thread back by about 5mm to give me enough adjustment.

Finally, I had all gears and a very smooth change

Only problem is I've got no adjustment left at either the front or rear of the long cable (the short cable is OK).

I was a bit concerned that I had done something stupid (wouldn't be a first) but I don't really see what I could have done to screw things up.

Just goes to show that there are never (or rarely) simple jobs and it's the easiest ones that catch you out most of the time.