Topic

Refilled the cooling system after replacing damaged coolant hose and skimmed cylinder head. Followed the recommended sequence, but surprised it only took 5 litres so assume there is an air lock somewhere. Car is currently parked facing slightly down hill which I thought would help bleed any air at the expansion bottle, but can only assume the thermostat is stopping air getting through. Plan is to turn the car round quickly so that the coolant pipes are sloping up towards the radiator and help gat air out. Any other recommendations?

Bled mine from 3 points and did it on level ground....and after bleeding I went through the bleeding process another couple of times for the shear fun of it...trying the heaters on and the like...had no problem with that method.I fitted one of those mike satur bleed nipples to the rad to do away with the crappy plastic plug....

.on looking around at what others used I found this......a flipping sparkplug

Gavin207 wrote: wrote:

Refilled the cooling system after replacing damaged coolant hose and skimmed cylinder head. Followed the recommended sequence, but surprised it only took 5 litres so assume there is an air lock somewhere. Car is currently parked facing slightly down hill which I thought would help bleed any air at the expansion bottle, but can only assume the thermostat is stopping air getting through. Plan is to turn the car round quickly so that the coolant pipes are sloping up towards the radiator and help gat air out. Any other recommendations?

Get as much in and air out as possible cold and the run up, as the stat opens you will get a sudden drop in level, turn off and let it cool a little then top up, keep an eye and bleed two or three times after runs and it will be fine, always bleed with the heater on hot.

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I was hoping luck would be on my side this weekend as I planned to replace the front mounts on the rear sub-frame followed by the re liquidising of the TF.

The NS M8 bolts came out with no problem and I thought I was on a winner and looking forward to an early finish!

No such luck with the OS bolts as both bolts sheared off leaving me with no choice but to drill out both bolts and re-tapping of the threads. Several hours later I then had to cut back both M14 bolts so that I could get them out.

After de-rusting and painting the sub frame area with Bilt Hamber I was then able to fit the new St Stl mounts + new M14 bolts. To make life easier I did decide to fit the new M14 bolts the opposite way round.

Finally sprayed the new mounts with copper spray and fitted plastic end caps to prevent water egress into the mounts.

Never got round to the liquid re-fill but there is always next weekend!!

Gavin207 wrote: wrote:

….Car is currently parked facing slightly down hill....

Advice is to raise the rear of the car so parked nose down should help.

Not touched mine since Christmas as I need to install pscan on my new laptop (and it's been too cold or too wet) - I need to find my F zen again.

However I have been doing something sort of MG related -



creating a permanent slot car circuit to run my 2 6R4s, 4 MG Lola LMP cars and 3 MG maestros and other cars.

So ran the car up and got some heat in it, but i don't think the PRT opened as there was heat in the heater, but no heat in the radiator - at what stage of the temperature gauge does the thermostat open, half way? Also, looks like i have a weep from the 'redundant' thermostat housing or inlet manifold, so more knuckle grazing!

Ran the car up again until the thermostat opened, still no more air out - can only assume the radiator didn't drain when I disconnected the pipes under the floor. Took the car out for a 25 mile drive, no more air out, so seems all ok - temperature sitting just below centre.

A bit of oil in the water and water in the oil ( both replaced) after the HGF. What do people recommend for flushing the oil and cooling systems?

Today's job is replacing all of the old Pektron relays. That will get the horn, rear fog light and intermittent wipers working again.

Those pesky Pektron relays ! Got mine done last year .

Gavin207 wrote: wrote:

Ran the car up again until the thermostat opened, still no more air out - can only assume the radiator didn't drain when I disconnected the pipes under the floor. Took the car out for a 25 mile drive, no more air out, so seems all ok - temperature sitting just below centre.

Always used Forte Bio degreaser when I was in the trade . Used it on my ZR when the HGF. Ran it for about 4-5 days then drained and flushed the cooling system . Not a sign of oil after that. As for the engine oil , just a good flushing oil will do .

John