Topic

Explosives? Start with an extension on your new braker bar, a six foot scaf' pole should ensure it either acquiesces or snaps the head off the bolt. Actually I'm not sure that really is the correct course of action, by all means try the bar but don't over do it, there could be captive / welded nuts on the back & if one of those fails you've a bigger problem.
If you look back some six weeks or so under "TF lower suspension bolts" commensing at
#201890 there are a few ideas once you reach the conclusion that drilling & retapping is the most painful way of achieving a painless bumper removal.
M

Sorry I should have said that the greatest contributor to the posts alluded to just now is Cobber, his ideas must have been distilled over many years in the business whilst most of us on here are enthusiastic amateurs.

Because the bolts will be in an absolute bastard of a place to drill out and retap in situ.
I’d do what I had to do just 2 days ago when removing the spindles in order to replace the ball joints on my Ute.
One of the calliper bolts wouldn’t undo…… broke the bastard off with brute force, so as I could remove the spindle and removed to broken bolt very easily one away from the Ute.

Remember if you break it……it needed replacing anyway

The problem is that the car was removed from the water and the left to sit about before working on it giving time for oxidisation to take hold.

We people would bring me a marine engine that had gone under, they would be shocked and horrified to see me throw their motor over the side of my jetty back into the salt water lake with a recover line attached,
If your not ready to work on it the best place for is back in the water, as the oxygen is what causes the serious corrosion.
I would recover the engine once I was ready to start work on it, never had any trouble resuscitating an engine that had been immersed and kept wet.
But those the had been raised up from the depths and then left to dry out, were usually buggered, you probably would’ve been better off stripping the car down.as soon as it was recovered..

Use a 6 sided socket preferably a rattle gun socket and a strong breaker bay with a cheater bar ( an extension pipe on the breaker bar handle) the pipe should be a long as you can comfortably swing in the available space,
Hopefully you have a friendly neighbourhood Samoan, Tongan, Māori or some such who you can ask nicely to swing on the cheater bar as it may need some serious strength, which these big burly blokes have in abundance.
Some of those Samoan blokes are so strong they probably have muscles in their shit, just as well they’re a happy friendly lot, never met one I didn’t like.
Now after soaking the offending bolt in a suitable penetrating fluid, try tightening the bolt a little the untightening it, working it back and forth it may break free, or you may just fatigue it till it breaks
If you do free it a little bit squirt more penetrating fluid into the newly opened gap and repeat the tightening an untightening of the bolt, if you gain ground repeat with the fluid and working the bolt back and forth.
You may even get it out, but you’ll probably either break it or only move it so far until it seizes,
It it seizes part way out you may be able to get enough room to cut it from behind the nut or head of the bold as applicable.

Once you’ve got it off I’ll run you through getting the broken bolts/studs out.

I’ve just found references to bumper removal by undoing the four 13mm bolts in the boot & lifting it away complete with mounting bracket attached, you’ll have to remove the peripheral screws etc.
I’ve not checked this as I’ve put the car away as it’s thundering up & down the valleys, with the first large drops of rain coming in. I’ll look at the EPC later & see if I can verify.
M

I remember now having looked at the drawing. You’ll end up mangling the bumper mounts (crush cans), I doubt many who have removed the bumper recently will have managed to get it off with the mounts in one piece unless they’ve copper greased the bolts when they last removed it.
If you don’t have a copy of the EPC go on Dieter’s site, that’s the one I refer to the most, it’s most helpful, plus there’s so much good stuff on there to look at at your leisure.
M

I took the day off from the spanners yesterday to give the releasing stuff time to do its work.
I finished cleaning, storing the interior. I can't believe how well everything has cleaned up, even the floor pans. (Silt must have some special rust proofing quality..)

Got home from work today and got to work with the new bar and cutting discs!! The exhaust and cat came off easily with only 1 casualty.. The bumper was a real fight, I tried to undo the mounts via the boot, but the top 2 bolts just kept spinning. The bar turned out to be a bad choice.. See attached picture. 😕 The results..Spanners 7 - mgf 3 😁

Drowned Cat!

I may need new bumper mounts..

You're either substituting a different car than the one initially shown drowned out or your very very good at cleaning things! That's Olympic standard cleaning.

I haven't cleaned underneath yet!

I'm quite familiar with that view as I need to replace the PRT. I was looking at that view last evening & my pipework isn't much cleaner than that, in my defence all the farmers around me went to mow their meadows & are now pumping noxious dribbles on the fields some of which gets on to the road & subsequently on the car. Haz' Mat'.

It's a good job that I didn't put a battery on and try to start the engine. Thanks for the advice against that 👍

I have been following Taffd's idea of putting diesel down and turning it over to prevent further damage.
The problem is that the engine won't fully rotate. It will go easily both ways until it comes to a hard stop.

Stuck valve or something else?