Topic

I think the seats should clean up!

I think you are showing great determination in starting this & a great affection for the car, as a Mk1 f it’s parts won’t be quite as available as for later tf’s, I just hope you have a good scrappy near you with k series Rovers for you to plunder. These are times when parts bin cars become better restoration projects that bespoke motors.
M

Quick update.

We have finished the interior strip down..really smelly!

I will be changing the srs module and probably the fuse board but luckily I haven't found corrosion on any of the connections yet.

I think we found why the clutch pedal went to the floor...the slave cylinder is toast and I have ordered a new seal kit for that.

I'm going to get the starter motor and alternator off for testing and or refurbishment/ replacing over the next few days.

The list of jobs is growing by the hour..

I need some advice.

I think the clutch problem is worse than I thought.
The slave cylinder was bad but I think it had gone past its limits.
The release arm is free but it just feels wrong..it's really easy to move and has no resistance at all. (20-25mm)

Has anyone come across this before?

After this 20/25mm movement does it then feel as if the release bearing is contacting with the fingers on the pressure plate or does it feel dead? There's every possibility that the plate is rusted to both the flywheel & pressure plate & short of jolting it free (not recommended with our engines) the gearbox will need splitting from the engine. Once separated you can then assess the job, replace the plate definitely, the flywheel & pressure plate will in all probability clean.
There won't be a single regular visitor that isn't rooting for you on this job.
M

Thanks, that's what I was thinking.

I was going to drop the engine/subframe out as part of the rebuild so doing a clutch would be good practice anyway.

Would it be a good idea to try to start the engine before that so I have a better understanding of what's needed?

The euc and alarm modules. were above water and I haven't found any corrosion on any electrical connection so far.

I would advise against anything that might trip the cam belt up. Even if you're familiar with the age & conditions of it & we're confident that the engine would crack up with no problems, some unforeseen gremlin could hop the belt more than an odd tooth & then you'd be miffed.
If it's coming out anyway do the jobs & then turn the key, besides won't you have water in the sump & would you want to change that & the filter before you start the jobs.

I've just seen the photographs, you're making impressive headway. You've probably made more progress than the workers on the original line..

Good advice again 👍

Unbelievably there isn't any water in the sump however after putting a scope down there is a brown sludge on top of the pistons.:oops

Time to get the spanners out.

Did you get any payout from the insurance that will help to cover parts that you may need ?

It could be condensation giving your piston crowns a decoke!
There’s dampness in there & it might do further damage. Under similar circumstances I might be wondering how to get silica gel into a container that would slip down a plug hole, changing it every few days whilst your on with other things. It might be a pain but it just might prevent rust forming, farting about now might prevent farting about with cylinder hones further down the line, with all the attendant fuss that that would entail.
M