Locked driver’s door
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Even if reparable would you chance a second door card?
M
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So, if you cant open the door to access the three retaining screws how do you "do something" that opens the door. The only thing I can think of is to dismantle the lock so that the interlock created by the superlock can be defeated.
Or, what am I missing?
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"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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When applying for insurance cover here in the U.K. we are usually asked a standard series of questions.
Near the top of the list is “what alarm” or other security features are included, soon followed by “what modifications” have been carried out.
So, it is important to have the perishing locks working or declare that one aspect such as “superlock” is disabled. At that point you will be directed to a broker and up goes the cost of insurance.
An insurance company will not care about any self inflicted damage caused to door cards etc whilst trying to overcome a failed superlock.
You might be able to be “economical” with the truth if the car were stolen by answering positively to the question was the car locked. The answer might be “yes” but without declaring no it was not superlocked.
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I’m not advocating this, it is by the way of a thought experiment.
My S/L circuit is disabled by a bullet connector in the door, if I’m required to institute the system that can be connected.
M
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My understanding is that the locks each have two motors. One for normal locking, and one for superlock.
Lock/unlock of either motor system is executed by reversing the current through the motor depending on selected action at the time.
As I read what I can find on this topic I get the impression that it is not necessarily the motors that fail but more the associated complexity of the mechanical components in the lock case. The micro switches themselves that detect lock position etc may be a significant contributor to that frailty.
I don’t know this but suspect that if the micro switch does not detect full closure or superlock complete then the motor might continue to run and go through a “loop” . It would be interesting if not helpful to know if anyone else has more experience with this.
Looking at the door handle I removed a while ago I have reminded myself that the associated rod is screwed into the handle mechanism pivot. That suggests some setting up is required.
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I tell ya what, when I rip out all the useless security shit, I'll send it to you, so you can tell your mates at the insurance company you got extra, I'm sure the bastards will still rip you off when it comes time for them to pay up!Regardless of what we think about the features included in the security system it is a standard feature.
When applying for insurance cover here in the U.K. we are usually asked a standard series of questions.
Near the top of the list is “what alarm” or other security features are included, soon followed by “what modifications” have been carried out.
So, it is important to have the perishing locks working or declare that one aspect such as “superlock” is disabled. At that point you will be directed to a broker and up goes the cost of insurance.
An insurance company will not care about any self inflicted damage caused to door cards etc whilst trying to overcome a failed superlock.
You might be able to be “economical” with the truth if the car were stolen by answering positively to the question was the car locked. The answer might be “yes” but without declaring no it was not superlocked.
And exactly what good is the superlock anyway, do you think a crook wont just climb over the door to get in when the roof is down? or wont take to the roof with a knife when it is up?
Or are pommy crooks too polite?
Locks only keep out honest people!
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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It’s a Mazda 3 of 2019 vintage & certainly not a dog by any means, who would look twice when there’s an older high spec Merc SUV next door, all locked up , tracked & alarmed.
Gone, never to be seen again. The tracker was disabled within half an hour of being nicked, apparently.
In comparison with “modern” alarm systems ours are crude, they were designed for car theft in the late 1990s, that’s an unimaginable time ago in terms of “car theft technology”.
A tyre leaver under your coat plays a microprocessor equipped gizmo & a laptop; car theft starts at home these days.
M
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But back to the main subject in this topic. I have today partially dismantled the item I replaced some months ago. On first inspection I can’t see anything broken etc. So if playing with the levers proves to be ineffective and the door card is “wrecked” to gain access I believe that removing the cover that secures the lock to the door would not be straightforward . It would be necessary to grind the screw heads down until they release the entire assembly.
If superlock is not engaged release through the various levers should be possible. If superlock is engaged I think it is a totally different matter. Other than knowing that the basic means to open the lock are prevented I have yet to discover how or why.
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After partially dismantling the item I removed a few months ago I think that reversing polarity through the superlock might be wrong as it only seems to operate a pawl.
Exactly how it all works is still a mystery. I might start a new thread on this to avoid detracting from the original post.
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M
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