Locked driver’s door

Thanks again to all of you for taking the time to help.
Due to getting caught up with other stuff, I haven’t had the chance to investigate further.
I liberally sprayed Plus Gas over any parts that looked even vaguely like they should move, so hopefully that will have worked some magic.
I’ll report back when I’ve had another chance to try your suggestions. 🤞

I am definitely “in the dark” when it comes to locking/unlocking of these cars and what is alarmed and what is not when pressing fob buttons or turning the key. This thread has encouraged me to try and find out more about the system.
With that thought in mind I note the final paragraph in one write up. It reads in summary as follows, in the event of a serious crash etc the inertia switch will unlock the doors - or words to that effect.
So, perhaps one the more technically electronically minded members might be able to indicate whether it is possible to “fool” the inertia switch by shorting to ground etc to see if that will open the driver’s door?

Very good point!

Well you could drive it into a telegraph pole to find out, but I don't recommend it!

Excellent point & one that few must have considered. It’s time to have a look at that aspect, thank you.
M

That’s a great idea to investigate, thank you. 
However, I suspect the issue will be a stuck rod or linkage so even if the inertia switch did release, the lock still wouldn’t actually open. 
Of course hitting bits could free off the stuck parts and give satisfaction for it failing in the first place, a bit like Basil Fawlty thrashing his car for misbehaving! 😀

I had to give my TF a damn good thrashing with a twig for alarm problems...so far so good.

I have to say I do believe it's a rod at half way house..
Give it a good rogering..not in a Capt. Pugwash way...😉

I’ve had another go at it.
I can push the white tab (shown in R40MGF’s picture) completely down but it still won’t open.
When I try the remote, the button comes fully up but then partially depresses again. I’ve tried disconnecting the battery while it’s fully up but I’m either consistantly mistiming it or there’s a tension that pulls it back down.
Either way, I’m getting fed up and may soon resort to a big hammer! 😡

Delbourt wrote:

I am definitely “in the dark” when it comes to locking/unlocking of these cars and what is alarmed and what is not when pressing fob buttons or turning the key. This thread has encouraged me to try and find out more about the system.
With that thought in mind I note the final paragraph in one write up. It reads in summary as follows, in the event of a serious crash etc the inertia switch will unlock the doors - or words to that effect.


David Aiketgate replied:-

As to what is and isn't alarmed.
1/. One fob press locks the doors and sets the ultrasonic internal movement sensor.
2/. A double press of the fob sets the door locks to superlock. If the car is left with the roof down, the doors can not be opened by operating the internal door handles.
3/. Using the key to lock the car, locks the doors but disables the internal sensor. Useful for leaving dogs or small humans in the car. Discretion advised. 🤣


 

I must remember never to press my fob button twice when locking the car..no superlock for me if I can help it.
Thanks!

Hallebleedinglujah but it’s open!!!
After removing the trim, I investigated the passenger door unlocking with the button and opening, then tried to replicate it by moving the rods and levers.
In my case it was the white tab (immediately above the solenoid, attached to the button) wasn’t coming up far enough just using the button or remote. If you get what I mean?
So I hooked my ‘lock jemmy’ on to it, pulled firmly upwards then gently pulled the inside door handle. Like and behold the door opened normally!
I’m wondering if the solenoid was stuck somehow and preventing full travel?
Now im wondering what to do to prevent it happening again?

A couple of pics showing the offending tab that needed to be raised further than possible just using the button.