Topic

Notanumber wrote:

>>>>. He kindly gave me some new hog rings and lent his spare hog ring pliers - it made a much quicker and less fiddly job than trying to refit the old hog rings ones with 2 pairs of long nose pliers.<<<<<

I use 3mm cable ties when refitting seat covers instead of hog rings.

Cable ties do work well. I used them when i renewed the backrest foam and cover on my previous TF last year and I when i recovered my MGB seats the year before. Though I hadnt asked for the hog rings I thought i might as well use them as I'd been lent the tool and was also running very low on cable ties.

Over the next week or so I’ll be fitting my recently regassed spheres. You probably don’t need to take the access hatch off but i had a bit of tidying up to do, so off it came. One job was to fit an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in an attempt to resolve a flat spot which hasn’t responded to any standard tweak. I fitted the device weeks ago it just require plumbing in. The other job was to tidy up the wiring after converting from the fat block mounted coil pack to the two cam cover mounted units. Again I’d made the adapter loom ages ago, all it needed was grafting in.
All the junk had to come off to access the fuel rail, which needed modifications, so the injectors came out & we’re checked. All went well, the modified loom fitted just about as good as it gets & after studying the circuit diagram I hacked out the redundant section, finishing it all off with heat shrink. Very tidy.
The plumbing connected without problems, although I would have been happier with better Jubilee clips.
Then I sat in it to start it. Petrol pissed out all over the shop & not an suggestion of it starting.
Crest fallen I retired for a day to think & order the correct clips.

To draw myself out of the slough of despond & after a “light bulb moment “, I return to the diagram, identified the point of idiocy within the wiring mod, remade a connection sacrificed in the heat of the moment, acquired the correct hose clips & it started first pull.
“As dry as a kangaroo’s jock strap”.
I need to play with the fuel regulator, now set at 2.5 something or others but it is running just fine.
M

Airportable wrote:

To draw myself out of the slough of despond & after a “light bulb moment “, I return to the diagram, identified the point of idiocy within the wiring mod, remade a connection sacrificed in the heat of the moment, acquired the correct hose clips & it started first pull.
“As dry as a kangaroo’s jock strap”.
I need to play with the fuel regulator, now set at 2.5 something or others but it is running just fine.
M

It should be drier that that…..it should be drier than a dead dingo’s donger!

That man is correct again but in my defence I’m not familiar with the moisture content of marsupials reproductive organs. Irrespective of their state of health.
I know that kangaroo’s jock straps are dry as I heard Gough Whitlam mention it & so as every good & well informed Australian, it must be true.
M

I took time over the weekend to do some of my job list & attended to real jobs rather than faff with things that are all rather jolly.
This time around I bought a new PRT rather than chance it with another herniated eBay offering “ hardly used (but monumentally shafted)”. I’d equipped myself with hose clamps which were mildly successful, resulting in me being only mildly drenched. There’s been no formal run out as yet nor has it been up to temperature, it’s confined to the garage due to precipitation & the exhaust paint is either burning off or possibly burning on.
Number two job; a replacement six bolt manifold & flexible pipe (thanks Darren). The manifold nuts had already been shifted & with only mild expletives everything else let go. New nuts & bolts, copper grease all over the shop etc, I then removed the lambda sensor, as that was to be replaced & there wasn’t much left. Everything up from the thread had gone, the lot, leaving a nobly bit & what might have been a wire.
Why I decided to check the heater voltage I don’t know but that was adrift also. There must be voltage getting to the relay pack, as that feed furnishes other things & the car starts, therefore tomorrow I’ll be looking for a duff relay.
More arse ache.
Anyone had anything similar?
M

Ive got a spare Lambda sensor you can have Mike if it would help you.

Thank you for the offer it is greatly appreciated, however lambda sensors are items I’am not short of. I was working on a narrow band air/fuel ratio monitor to display the stoich point (sweet spot) values. Maintaining this value can help with economy & gives you a better chance at MOT time.
I collected several different patterns off my scrappy; they’re all pretty much the same, at least my collection, with the same thread form & a heater value of around 9 ohms.
The monitor is basically a digital volt meter adjusted for 0 to 2v FSD & your looking for a stoich value of about a volt.
I’m going from memory here & as I’ve said before (or at least I think I’ve said before, I can’t remember) I might have values wrong. Please correct if I’m adrift, it is a while ago.
There’s a digression for you & I found the fault, it was a pin which had pushed back in a connector. There are barbs on the pins & I like to lift them to give them a better index when inserting, I didn’t on this occasion & it caused an inordinate amount of farting about. It also illustrates the wisdom of giving the bard a tweak.
M

“ Giving the Bard a tweek”? What’s Shakespeare got to do with it? And in this day and age wouldn’t giving him an unwanted tweek, constitute an indecent assault?
Mind you in his day, unwanted tweeting was considered normal behaviour, and come to think about it there wouldn’t be much left to tweek now……… there be nothing left of the old bugger but an old chassis by now.

And there gentlemen!
The dragon is slain!
Our much esteemed antipodean burster of technobabble bubbles can find no fault in the argument other than a sleping mistake.
I am humbled by “Le professor’s” inability to tease out any flaw within the cerebral process leading to the discovery of the disengage barb & a voltage not present.
All services are resumed & I can place the bard back within his covers to resume his slumbers until another “Not to be” comes along looking for a “To be”.

“I care naught for the critic,
With his caustic quill,”

Good on ya mate.
M

Changed my reversing light switch this afternoon. Interestingly there was no washer fitted, and I had to fit a washer to make the new one work ( without a washer it was on permanently), so if changing this switch it is a good idea to have 14mm aluminium washers to hand.

Below is the switch, and the 50mm of oil lost, not a great colour, but as I have to top up regularly as one of the driveshaft oil seals leaks I treat it as a total loss lubrication system!

Also is my continuity tester used to test the switch - any guesses on what the lens comes from?