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SundanceUK wrote: wrote:

Finished re-building the TF interior and replaced my busted T-bar, long job as I had to cut away for the roll hoops then fix it all back together with the modified wind stop.
Also re-painted one of my door car caps, as for some reason the paint had bloomed - possibly with sun and heat over the hot weather, so door card all back on and car looking tip-top.
Only thing left to do is to swap the drivers seat back after it comes back from Bitz after having the bolster fixed.

Sundance

Fitted the bargain wind stop I managed to acquire, before SWMBO got home.. 😬😬


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Rear sub frame is back in.

Close to completion Talking cars. Back on the road soon?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G920F met Tapatalk

Decided to fit intermediate relays to my Halo DRL's to turn the respective Halo rings off when the indicator is flashing.
The controller did have a wire that was supposed to work with this function, however, being a far eastern import, the function only flashed the halo's when the indicators were turned on.
So I wired up two signals from the indicator switch, one for each turn signal and used this to switch two relays, one each side which interupted the current to each pair of halo's when the indicator switch is operated.
I managed to find a nice little recess behind each light unit, with a spare hole to bolt the relay to, so no drilling required.
The job soon done in a couple of hours, with the only problem being a wasp that was mistaking my aircon condenser for a nest!

Sundance

Relay mounted...


And wired....


MG TF wasps nest!

Last weekend, purchase a new battery and after checking everything, oil, water, various fluids and tyre pressures, the TF started up first time after over 12 months inactivity. Let it idle until normal temperture was acheived and then it move around the close (cul de sac), slowly and steady. going through at least 3 gears, braking gently, all seem well, so that is a good start. The brake discs look ok fortunately but they wil be rechecked when the times comes for it's eventual MOT. Due another 'start' this weekend to keep things ticking over.

The driving dutchman wrote: wrote:

Close to completion Talking cars. Back on the road soon?

I am currently trying to refit my modified heatshield so I can get the exhaust on and finish servicing the drive shafts with the hope I can get the car back down on four wheels tomorrow and in for an MOT the week after next.

Had Jon and Claire Norris of Rough Luck Racing down yesterday to repair my head gasket, What lovely people! They also fitted the alloy inlet manifold that I bought ages ago and hadn't got around to fitting - glad I left it to them as it needed a drill and tap to fit the air sensor.

One slight oversight on my part - I forgot to tell Jon about the noisy hydraulic lifter and it wasn't until he started the engine after changing the gasket that he knew about it. It would have been a piece of pee to change the lifters while the head was off of course and I should have asked him to do that. His advice was to try a can of Wynns Hydraulic Valve Lifter "magic" and I have to say, it seems to be quieting (quietening?) things down a bit.

Unfortunately, it now looks like I've popped a seal on the clutch slave cylinder, I'm guessing as a result of the car not having been driven for about 6 weeks. Never mind, one on order from Rimmers which should be here tomorrow so that's the next job.

I can't recommend Rough Luck highly enough - they were excellent!

Back on the road then Robin?
John

Should be today if the slave cylinder arrives via Royal Fail

In fairness to Rimmer’s and Royal Mail, my slave cylinder was delivered at 10.20 this morning.

After much blood letting and swearing, I’ve freed and greased the clutch release arm and fitted and bled the shave cylinder. I now have a much better clutch so I suspect the release arm had been tight for some time and am back on the road

In common with other posters, cracking the master cylinder union made bleeding a lot easier

Just hooked up the Handbrake and Gear change cables.
When stripping the car i wrapped the cables around the engine, so they didin't get caught up when moving everything around, That was a mistake! Untangling that from underneath and teasing back in to the tunnel was a nightmare

Repaired my remote boot release by changing the failed solenoid with the remote latch from a Rover 25. Seems more robust than the original version tbh. Time will tell.

All the wiring was in place so it only needed some way of mounting the new motor and connecting it to the latch pull. That was the trickiest thing but I resorted to using a cable tie in the end. I expect it will fail at some point but it will be easy enough to replace with another one.