Topic

Have had the use of a friends Mig(So i'm told) welder but have had to give it back, so now i'm looking for a new one , without breaking the bank or the other half noticing

Problem is i havn't got a clue, the MIG i only used a couple of times so not used to a certain type, ARC's on ebay seem to be a third less than migs, google tells me all welders are ARC's which was helpfull (mental note to find a sarcasm smilie). Thought MIG used gas untill i found gasless, then found stick welders labled as ARC with gas impregnated into the stick, Getting even more confused

So for a little light work what sould i go for? ARC,MIG,TIG and whats the difference?

For home use for auto body work and steel plate up to 7mm or so I would go for a MIG.
ARC is better for thicker steel, and is a bit tougher to master. TIG works for more exotic stuff but MIG will do most auto hobby work and is much cheaper than a TIG. MIG with gas gives better results but the flux core wire does the job too.

I bought an arc welder, and can successfully blow holes in most metals. Doh!

Bookmark This brilliant site.

It will explain all you need to know.

I used my old gasless Mig from Halfrauds to do the welding on Meg's rear sills several months ago. Turned out quite well:



then smoothed and covered in sealing stuff:



The good thing about Mig is that the heat is quite localised so it doesn't do as much damage to surrounding paintwork.

I found the MIG i borrowed quite easy to pickup and get going, Once i'd done the bit and got over the shock of all the sparks.

thinking the extra for a Mig is the way to go. Cheers Guys

Psymon wrote: wrote:

I found the MIG i borrowed quite easy to pickup and get going, Once i'd done the bit and got over the shock of all the sparks.

thinking the extra for a Mig is the way to go. Cheers Guys

They all work on the arc principle, which is heat caused by current jumping an air gap, or an arc.

The stick welders can get good results but are generally for heavy welding, such as chassis. Stick welders can easily blow holes in bodywork etc.

The MIG welders are more controllable and provide a tidier weld. Machine Mart Linky do a good range, but e-bay are good for bargains.

Decide what thickness you need to weld to and look at the specs.

Definitely a MIG is what you need, I have always used a gas one, never tried the gasless (they have something within the welding wire that shrouds the weld) but have read varying reports on how good they are.

I have had mine for 12 years or so and it works well, perfect for small jobs and repairs but it cannot cope with long spells of welding without a rest! when I restored a Morris Minor and was doing prolonged periods of welding my machine kept stopping so I borrowed my neighbours high powered model and it was perfect. They talk about the duty cycle (time welding then rest time) so look into that before buying and I find the argon/Co2 mix much better than plain old Co2 gas.

Also, have a look at CJJs link above for Machine Mart, they do Clark welders which get a good name.

I got a mig SIP from machinemart, it is both gas and gasless. THe advantage of gasless is that you can weld outside, the disadvantage is that the welds aren't as clean.

I also have an arc welder which is more agricultrial.

adamelphick wrote: wrote:

I used my old gasless Mig from Halfrauds to do the welding on Meg's rear sills several months ago. Turned out quite well:

then smoothed and covered in sealing stuff:

The good thing about Mig is that the heat is quite localised so it doesn't do as much damage to surrounding paintwork.

Thought i was unique with a rusted out rear cill (nearside) which was caused because the rubber bung is missing at the front of the cill (behind the plastic arch liner) and the cill void has filled with mud & water. going to spray in waxoil on both sides after it is repaired. Not heard of cills rusting out on the MGFs before.

bryan young wrote: wrote:

adamelphick wrote: wrote:

I used my old gasless Mig from Halfrauds to do the welding on Meg's rear sills several months ago. Turned out quite well:

then smoothed and covered in sealing stuff:

The good thing about Mig is that the heat is quite localised so it doesn't do as much damage to surrounding paintwork.

Thought i was unique with a rusted out rear cill (nearside) which was caused because the rubber bung is missing at the front of the cill (behind the plastic arch liner) and the cill void has filled with mud & water. going to spray in waxoil on both sides after it is repaired. Not heard of cills rusting out on the MGFs before.

Megs was caused by some twerp trying to jack here in that region at some point in the past - plus the trapped mud and crap in the sill. I washed it all out with gallons of clean water form a high pressure hose before I welded - then in Spring I'll waxoyl her!

interesting thread I could do with one my self

I only have an old monster of an arc welder, an to be honest as everyones said doing body work is an art

I did the sill on the silver F last month an it was no fun at all, welding upside down, an the only way I find of not blowing holes in dodgey areas is to use two rods, one on the welder an one as a filler rod as if you were gas welding with a torch