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  • adamelphick updated his profile
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  • Note that only the earliest pscan units had a mini-USB port.
    Later ones had the much larger type B port, which most people would recognise as the USB port on a printer.


    Handy to know... shows my old boy is still working brilliantly after all these years! I forgot he was one of the originals! :woohoo:

    So for early models this would fit: USB C to Mini USB

    For newer models I presume this should fit: USB-C to USB-B 2.0
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  • Happy to report that the Pscan unit works perfectly on my Matebook E via the Amazon USB-C to mini-USB lead.... software transferred over fine, and it recognised everything with the interface... happy bunny!
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  • Brill thanks - I'll grab the cable and fingers crossed!
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  • adamelphick created a new forum post in pscan.uk diagnostic tool forum
    Hi. The time has come to retire my extremely trusty Lenovo Thinkpad Yoga S1 Ultrabook.

    I bought myself a Huawei Matebook E and am REALLY impressed with it. It's been round the World with me and not missed a beat. Therefore as it's MUCH lighter than my Yoga I want to move the license for my Pscan over to it. How do I go abou that?

    I have no trouble running the unit on W11 with this Lenovo, so presume the same with the Huawei, however the Matebook E only has a single USB-C port as it's a hybrid Windows Tablet. My question is will Pscan work OK with the USB-C port, and if so, rather than a USB to USB-C adapter would I be OK getting a new lead like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-Mini-USB-C-Black-3-Feet/dp/B00UUBS0SS ...full USB-C to Mini-USB?

    Thanks in advance!
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  • Just cu the carpet where you thought (between the two front areas) and slide it in the gaps under the sides of the centre console etc. If it's a Mk2 carpet with the built in underlay then it will be quite stiff anyway and stay in place easily. If you are really feeling OCD you could clip the two halves together under the dash - but honestly there's no need!
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  • Adam, (adamelphic) used a length of seat belt attached to the driver's side roof latch to lift the roof, sitting in the driver's seat. It lived rolled up under the latch when not needed, and was left laying between the seats when the roof was down.
    Hey presto, roof easily pulled up.

    Incidentally I have Mike Satur roll hoops and glass windstop and a glass rear screen, and I can simply fling the roof back without anything catching on anything else. :shrug:


    I sure did have that - it worked REALLY well too! Then of course I got the electric room and it was redundant. But it is a good solution and basically free :woohoo:
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  • Fitted my power kit to my old F and now my TF. Never had a problemn with it. Works like a dream and much quicker than I was lead to believe it was before I fitted it.
    Definitely wouldn't be without it now. Just need to get the TF back on the road now in the Spring.
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  • adamelphick replied to the topic I'm staggered in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Totally agree - there's a Pscan on one of the MG Facebook groups for sale at the moment - saw it yesterday! Can't find it now but it was £60 i think?
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  • Adam,
    just came across an old post you answered about MGTF compliance bushes and wondered if you had any detailed info about how you packed out the bush movement .
    thanks
    Mike


    Hi Mike,

    I made them up by hand out of what IKEA used to supply as their plastic chopping boards. The new ones will be too thin as you need it about 2mm thick... So you'll need to find something similar but here's how I made them:

    1. Measure the diameter of the outside of the metal Bush surround. Cut 4 of these circles from the plastic.

    2. Cut a hole around 1cm or so in the middle of each.

    3. Cut one slot from centre to outside on each of the washers you've created, making them split washers.

    4. Stick a pry bar under the lower arm and push down to give a small gap between the compliance Bush end and the subframe.

    5. Slide one washer around the bolt that goes through the compliance Bush, between the subframe and the arm (the bits that are banging on each other). It should cover the whole compliance Bush and the metal outer part.

    6. Slide another one on top, in the gap with the slot at 180 degrees to the first one.

    7. Let the key bar pressure off and your done!

    Hope that makes sense!
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