adamelphick

Just cu the carpet where you thought (between the two front areas) and slide it in the gaps under the sides of the centre console etc. If it's a Mk2 carpet with the built in underlay then it will be quite stiff anyway and stay in place easily. If you are really feeling OCD you could clip the two halves together under the dash - but honestly there's no need!

David Aiketgate wrote:

Adam, (adamelphic) used a length of seat belt attached to the driver's side roof latch to lift the roof, sitting in the driver's seat. It lived rolled up under the latch when not needed, and was left laying between the seats when the roof was down.
Hey presto, roof easily pulled up.

Incidentally I have Mike Satur roll hoops and glass windstop and a glass rear screen, and I can simply fling the roof back without anything catching on anything else.

I sure did have that - it worked REALLY well too! Then of course I got the electric room and it was redundant. But it is a good solution and basically free

Fitted my power kit to my old F and now my TF. Never had a problemn with it. Works like a dream and much quicker than I was lead to believe it was before I fitted it.
Definitely wouldn't be without it now. Just need to get the TF back on the road now in the Spring.

Totally agree - there's a Pscan on one of the MG Facebook groups for sale at the moment - saw it yesterday! Can't find it now but it was £60 i think?

g4wam wrote:

Adam,
just came across an old post you answered about MGTF compliance bushes and wondered if you had any detailed info about how you packed out the bush movement .
thanks
Mike

Hi Mike,

I made them up by hand out of what IKEA used to supply as their plastic chopping boards. The new ones will be too thin as you need it about 2mm thick... So you'll need to find something similar but here's how I made them:

1. Measure the diameter of the outside of the metal Bush surround. Cut 4 of these circles from the plastic.

2. Cut a hole around 1cm or so in the middle of each.

3. Cut one slot from centre to outside on each of the washers you've created, making them split washers.

4. Stick a pry bar under the lower arm and push down to give a small gap between the compliance Bush end and the subframe.

5. Slide one washer around the bolt that goes through the compliance Bush, between the subframe and the arm (the bits that are banging on each other). It should cover the whole compliance Bush and the metal outer part.

6. Slide another one on top, in the gap with the slot at 180 degrees to the first one.

7. Let the key bar pressure off and your done!

Hope that makes sense!

sworkscooper wrote:

Have you managed to sort it Adam ?

Not yet - weather has been poop - then fence blew down in garden (took time up) - then bloody kitchen got a flood (deep joy) and now ZS needs a new O2 sensor and MOT LOL

I am pretty sure it must be the pump though as it's getting 12v but is silent as a mouse.. normally makes that little 'whirr' when the ignition is switched on.

Blimey will it ever stop raining and blowing a gale so I can look more into this?!

The fuel filter was replaced just before he was laid up - and he started fine just before Christmas - but good call - I'll check if any flow before the filter just in case!

But I do remember hearing the normal 'bzzzz' of the fuel pump priming on every key start before.. which it isn't doing now. It's silent as a mouse.

I'll try and look at the 'old style' pump tomorrow and see how it's put together.... failing that I guess i could pop the old one out and see if anything stuck in it I guess? If he's been sat for ages some crap maybe got in there?