Topic

I've recently joined the TF fold, with a 2004 TF. Started sorting it out, SCU relays replaced by Remobilise ( very quick and helpful), heater fan now works on all speeds, not just 3 & 4.

Two things still to sort out - intermittent petrol smell, I've replaced the fuel cap seal, and the fuel system is holding pressure ( cap goes 'woosh' when i take it off after a run!). What should I check next? Other one is the subframe mount.

Last night decided to put it up on ramps and poke around underneath. Good news is that the rear subframe looks generally sound - will get a wire brush and treated with Fertan ( highly rated by many in the classic car fraternity) and Dinitrol. Bad news was the N/S subframe mount:


I've looked up the threads on this one, so doesn't look too challenging to change, subject to getting the M8 bolts out. i intend replacing them with stainless, does anyone know the length of the originals? Also, the long bolt which goes through the fitting, is this M12 ( i haven't tried measuring it yet) and can you get stainless replacements?

Don't replace any critical bolts (suspension, steering, brakes, flywheel, driveshafts etc.) with stainless as it isn't as strong as high tensile steel, instead use a quality anti-seize compound on the threads of new high tensile bolts, this will protect the business end of the bolt and it should be possible to undo them without any great trouble in the future.
To protect the bolt heads paint them and the other parts with a quality anti-corrosion coating.

Agreed, any replacement bolts need to match the original fitment strength. I note that the O/S bolts where the mount has already been replaced has new 10.9 bolts fitted - I assume this is the correct grade? For future disassembly I normally copaslip bolts and nuts, (although torqued threads should be assembled dry), and under the car protect exposed threads with old fashioned underseal - easy to remove if you need to take them apart again, but preserves the threads.

Try resealing the round access panel for the petrol tank pump assembly. It's on the rear parcel shelf behind the passenger seat. check the charcoal canister is connected up correctly. (rear engine bay next to the ecu.)

David, thanks, I've added additional sealing foam to the lip of this seal as the existing has become compressed, but may tape it as well with suitable tape.

Charcoal canister is my next point of call, I see MGOC have a batch on offer at present. https://www.mgocspares.co.uk/pdfs/hotline.pdf

Hi and welcome to the forum.

James

Hello and

Thanks for all the welcomes. Started on this last night - outside bolt is turning, inside bolt head is rounded off, so will try a bit of heat this evening, and probably cut a groove in the head of the bolt so that i can use an impact driver with a screwdriver bit - worst that can happen is that the head shears off.

Two questions please - what is the head size for the long bolt - 18mm? Secondly, if the subframe to chassis mount fails, how much does the body drop by approximately? Obviously I'm supporting the car under the sill to prevent this, but it would be useful to know as it will give me an idea of the movement to expect. if this happens, is there a risk of twisting the subframe / chassis mounts?

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Gavin207 wrote: wrote:

David, thanks, I've added additional sealing foam to the lip of this seal as the existing has become compressed, but may tape it as well with suitable tape.

Charcoal canister is my next point of call, I see MGOC have a batch on offer at present. https://www.mgocspares.co.uk/pdfs/hotline.pdf

my petrol smell issue was actually the seal where the pump assembly secures into the top of the fuel tank.(under the round access panel)
I replaced the pump and didnt get the seal back in correctly because you need to be a 6 year old gynacologist to get the locking ring back in place correctly! Eventually bought a special tool for refitting the pump and greased the seal before I got it all back together properly.
As the fuel pumps are a known weak point, and may have been replaced, it would be worth checking the seal and lock ring are secure. A good sniff down there will soon tell you if there's a problem!

Gavin207 wrote: wrote:

... if the subframe to chassis mount fails, how much does the body drop by approximately? Obviously I'm supporting the car under the sill to prevent this, but it would be useful to know as it will give me an idea of the movement to expect. if this happens, is there a risk of twisting the subframe / chassis mounts?

The subframe may drop by a few centimeters. There is no risk of twisting the subframe.

Gavin207 wrote: wrote:

inside bolt head is rounded off, so will try a bit of heat this evening,

Did you use a 6 pint socket or a 12 point socket????

Never use 12 point sockets and corroded bolts...they will just round off the head!

A good quality 6 point socket, of the correct size, will NEVER round off the head!

Heat and a 6 point socket are likely your best options, otherwise weld a larger nut onto the rounded off bolt head (weld through the middle of the nut onto the bolt head), and use this to undo. The heat from welding loosens the bolt, and the nut gives a bigger hex to turn on.