Started changing my wheel bearings, started with the offside rear which I had an advisory on at the MOT. Surprised at how much play there was as it was only an advisory. Not helped by the fact that the hub nut wasn't much more than hand tight.
I'm also fitting the uprated shock absorber bolts as the MOT tester commented on the slight play in them. The uprated bolts are 1.35mm larger in diameter and are a snug fit I the bush.
Took the air intake snorkel off, removed the soaking and compressed foam and used a non-setting mastic to seal the snorkel - hopefully that will stop the leak. Used this www.everbuild.co.uk/product/115-gp-building-mastic/
So i've just been out in the howling gale we have here at present, took out my glove box and stuck my head down the footwell - yes, looks like the air intake, also the air intake duct has come away from the 'snorkel'. so that needs sorting.
At the moment i'm stuffing towels under the carpet to soak up as much of the water as possible, from past experience the best way is to take the seats and carpet out, the carpet sponge dries best if hung up to dry, and the car is coming off the road at Christmas anyway so that I can fit my Christmas present - four new wheel bearings
the title says it all - i've discovered my passenger side carpets are sopping wet on the underside, the water isn't coming in through the window/hood interface as i have been keeping an eye on this, and the top of the carpet is dry, but the sponge on the underside is wringing wet. it's worst at the front of the footwell.
I'm trying to find where the water is coming from, does anyone have suggestions on the most likely point of entry? My initial thoughts are either through the seam where the floor meets the sill, or running down from around the door pillar / wing/ screen interface.
i had a similar problem, except in my case the bolt was missing completely. Because the shoulder bolt isn't available on its own, my solution was to make a brass sleeve to slide over a standard bolt to replicate the shoulder. That was a couple of years ago and it's worked faultlessly since.
on drilling out sheared bolts, the best way i've found is to start with a centre or slocombe drill - has a small point but is very rigid so is easy to centre and keep in place. i've used this successfully when drilling out sheared subframe mounting bolts in stages, and finally cleaning out the remaining threads with a tap - takes time and patience, but worth the effort.
I did this a few weeks ago, yes complete bumper and crash cans come off, but fiddly not difficult. Some people struggle with removing the old bearings from the arms, i worked out a relatively easy way to do it, see this thread. www.the-t-bar.com/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop...-bearing-wear#193830