mowog73

I had something similar happen on the rear subframe's smaller mounts, where the bolts broke and the captive nut became 'un-captive'. I ended up welding a flanged nut in place of the captive nut.

R40MGF wrote:

Evening everyone.

My last post should have included a photo of the gearbox arm that is now in the bin!

You're luck that binning that gearbox arm is such a simple task, not so on the other side of the pond.

I found the gearbox arm on one of our Fs to be in what looks to be about the same condition as yours and was able to repair it with a bit of welding, it really wasn't in that bad condition.

Fantastic Mike, thanks, this is really helpful.

No, you do not have to remove the spring clip, you just push it in and pull the connector off.

Airportable wrote:

That’s what I’ve done, little dobs of cyanoacrylate every few inches (other measuring increments are available but rarely fully understood by persons over a certain age).

I have the same problem with running the wire on the hood on my wife's F, there is nothing to anchor it to.

Would you happen to have a picture showing the wire glued in place?

I thought about making my own as well if my spare fails. Here's a couple pictures of the drain tube and some measurements I made that you may find helpful.

Evaporator drain tube, JQG100050, NLA. No idea where you'll find one.

Your gearshift cable isn't properly mounted, there is no clip present.

Maybe the cable connector at the gearshift is minimally screwed onto the cable, making the cable very long. I'd suggest investigating the cable at the shifter and screw it on as much as possible. I had to do this to a friend's F just about a month ago because the cable connector at the bell crank wouldn't align. This happened to be on a standard factory setup.

The amount and type of oil is specified on the Workshop manual. The amount is also stated on the yellow A/C label next to the bonnet latch.