Bobb

Friends,
My clutch pedal has been sticking for a few weeks now.
I’ve replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system and for a little while that appeared to do the trick, however the pedal went to the floor and didn’t spring back.
I’ve now rebled the clutch and sprayed the release arm with WD40 and a lubricant.
The pedal now appears to be operating normally.... but for how long?
Online, this appears a common MG TF fault and an updated release arm is now available.
My question is, should I leave it now it’s working?
Or for the want of £30 should I replace it.
Is it an easy job to do??
TIA
Bob

Hi,
I have an old SatNav that I use in my MG TF. It’s about 3 inches square and I’m looking for a holder that I can attach to the ventilation vents.
Any ideas?
Bob

Thanks for your insight. It turned out to be a faulty slave cylinder, which was the easiest component to change.
I bought the whole 3 part section from a scrap yard, the flexi pipe, clutch pipe and slave cylinder for £45 in preparation.
Bled the system with a Gunson easibleed kit.
Piece of cake... almost

Hi friends,

I’m going to bleed my MG TF clutch slave cylinder.
How is the best way to access the bleed nipple, from underneath the car or from the top?

Thanks
Bob

Help!
I’m trying to refit the master cylinder, which I should never have taken off in the place, but that’s another story.
How do I get the plunger pin back in?
I’ve tried from the top and it’s too small a hole and just too fiddly.
I’ve tried from inside the car but I need to be a contortionist, which I’m not.
Have I missed something?
Do I have to disconnect the pedal, or just try harder?
Many thanks
Bob

Hi everyone, I’ve been investigating my clutch problems further and I’ve found a leaking hose under the car.
There appears to be a rubber hose connection bridging to steel clutch pipes.
Q.1 How difficult is it to replace the hose?
Q.2 is there strong possibility that the steel pipes will be damaged in trying to disconnect ?
Q.3 is it good practice to replace the slave cylinder at the same time or is it better to “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”?

Thanks as always, your knowledge is much appreciated.

Bob

Hi John, I hope you’re right, I’ll give bleeding a try, it’s by far the cheapest option.
I should have mentioned that I’ve done 50,000 miles, which obviously isn’t excessive for the original clutch.

I’ve topped up the reservoir and the clutch pedal is beyond spongy, there’s no resistance at all.
I can start the car in gear and it gets it moving.
I assume the clutch has gone.

Hi everyone, please help.

The gears are extremely difficult to engage and there is almost no resistance to the clutch pedal .
The clutch reservoir appears empty.
When the ignition is off I can select the gears, when the engine is started I can’t select any.

Is this a sign that the clutch has gone?

I’m going to top up the clutch reservoir to see if that makes any difference.
Should I buy any particular clutch fluid, or will a universal one do?

Thanks
Bob.

Hi,
I am the least mechanical person on this forum, however...
When I bought my TF the gear change wasn’t brilliant, so I did 2 cheap fixes which even if they don’t work fall into the category “it needed doing anyway”.

1. I changed the transmission oil, or rather the garage did at the same time as the MOT because I couldn’t loosen the filler plug.

2. And I did do this myself, I changed the two gear linkage bushes, underneath at the rear of the car.

Hope this helps

Bob