Locked driver’s door
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I’ve met him a few times & found him to a personable individual. The items I have had were good & clean, I don’t live too far away from him, so carriage isn’t a problem, plus if I go the long way round I can have a run up the Ribble valley, returning via the Trough of Bowland.
M
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Good to have these contacts.
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So here is my question
Without access to the door when it is open it is not possible to remove the screws that hold the lock to the door case. Does this mean that once the door card is destroyed to get access to the lock that you have to basically dismantle the lock in-situ such that you can release the interlock that creates the "superlock"?
I ask because as I understand it once "superlock" is activated an interlock is deployed within the lock case that prevents any of the other rod mechanisms from having any effect ~ simply put they are disabled. Or is there something more obvious that I'm overlooking.
Within the case there are three microswitches, 1 to sense if the door is closed/open, 1 to sense if the system is locked or unlocked, and 1 to sense if the key has been used to lock/unlock the door. And the ECU determines whether to power the standard lock or superlock (and which way to operate the motor).
So again if the fob is not having any effect on unlocking the door and superlock has been deployed I cant see any other way of opening the door other than dismantling the lock in situ. Am I wrong? If so please explain.
My only other thought would be to turn ignition on (possibly start the engine) and disconnect the accelerometer that senses that you have run into the big tree. Then see what happens. Or could it be a weak earth? If so where?
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The "weak earth" at the end caught my attention as so many electrical faults are down to a bad earth in the same way a broken neutral causes so many electrical problems.
After reading the horror stories about "superlock" I might just stop locking my doors.
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Even if reparable would you chance a second door card?
M
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So, if you cant open the door to access the three retaining screws how do you "do something" that opens the door. The only thing I can think of is to dismantle the lock so that the interlock created by the superlock can be defeated.
Or, what am I missing?
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"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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When applying for insurance cover here in the U.K. we are usually asked a standard series of questions.
Near the top of the list is “what alarm” or other security features are included, soon followed by “what modifications” have been carried out.
So, it is important to have the perishing locks working or declare that one aspect such as “superlock” is disabled. At that point you will be directed to a broker and up goes the cost of insurance.
An insurance company will not care about any self inflicted damage caused to door cards etc whilst trying to overcome a failed superlock.
You might be able to be “economical” with the truth if the car were stolen by answering positively to the question was the car locked. The answer might be “yes” but without declaring no it was not superlocked.
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I’m not advocating this, it is by the way of a thought experiment.
My S/L circuit is disabled by a bullet connector in the door, if I’m required to institute the system that can be connected.
M
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My understanding is that the locks each have two motors. One for normal locking, and one for superlock.
Lock/unlock of either motor system is executed by reversing the current through the motor depending on selected action at the time.
As I read what I can find on this topic I get the impression that it is not necessarily the motors that fail but more the associated complexity of the mechanical components in the lock case. The micro switches themselves that detect lock position etc may be a significant contributor to that frailty.
I don’t know this but suspect that if the micro switch does not detect full closure or superlock complete then the motor might continue to run and go through a “loop” . It would be interesting if not helpful to know if anyone else has more experience with this.
Looking at the door handle I removed a while ago I have reminded myself that the associated rod is screwed into the handle mechanism pivot. That suggests some setting up is required.
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