Pscan and 5as Fobs

1 month 2 weeks ago #194382 by Roverlike
Then you might use WD40 and graphite oil to lubricate and free the lock in the door as it might be it was not use for a long time.

Regarding T4 session, I am not sure what you might find on the T4 session since pscan could not find much.
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1 month 2 weeks ago - 1 month 2 weeks ago #194394 by David Aiketgate
I do have a faint memory of problems being caused when both fobs are together in the car. Something about confusing the ecu. Maybe worth trying to remove one fob from the vicinity and trying to resynch the remaining fob.

David
:shrug:
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1 month 2 weeks ago #194402 by sworkscooper
Hi David. I have only had one fob at any one time while trying to sort this out . Today I went and did the same checks as I did on Monday. Re checked all the fuses both inside the car and under the bonnet and then tried to re educate the fobs using Pscan . Nothing has changed so I bit the bullet and removed the scu and sent it along with the fobs for Paul Brown to work his magic . My only area of concern is that although I have managed to release both door locks , the door handle lock will not fully turn in either direction and I have checked the lock is not siezed up it is as though the latch mechanism or the rods that go to the lock is jammed in some way. All I can hope is when the scu comes back and is plugged in it will cycle the lock back to neutral.
John :yesnod:

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1 month 1 week ago #194429 by sworkscooper
The TF's 5as scu was returned from Paul Brown ( Technozen ) yesterday and refitted it to the car . The problem for those who have been following this saga was that the immobilizer was not recognising either of the fobs and after consulting with Paul he suggested that the receiver in the scu had failed which is not a common fault with the Lucas 5as system . Paul's expertise has fixed the fault as the car now locks and unlocks and also starts up . This car still has one remaining fault in that the door lock in the handle will still not operate the lock manually in either direction . I have removed both the lock barrel and the locking motor latch and checked them for damage and wear and can see nothing wrong . It is a bit difficult to sort this problem due to the car ( not mine ) is a few miles away so it's not as though I can keep popping out and doing a bit when I feel like it .
Any ideas guys , as always would be appreciated .

John
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1 month 1 week ago - 1 month 1 week ago #194433 by sworkscooper


Ok for those of you still interested, this afternoon I stripped down the drivers door latch to check if there was any fault and low and behold there is a small pivot pin and an equally small spring lying in the bottom of the latch . I took a couple of pictures but I'm garbage at posting pictures. The normal source for these is MGF n TF bitz but alas they are out of them at the moment and Rimmers must be gold plating the ones they have as they are .... £150 !
Has any one repaired one of these
John

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1 month 1 week ago - 1 month 1 week ago #194444 by David Aiketgate
I remember someone, it may have been Clive CJJ.,Repaired a lock by inserting a bolt through the casing to replace the broken off post.
Yep, check out Clive how to . Repairing a door lock mechanism.


https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/22-cjj-s-guides/90593-repairing-a-door-lock-mechanism

David
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1 month 1 week ago #194445 by sworkscooper
Hi David. Thanks for that. My initial thoughts were to do something similar to this latch but the car is owned by an a guy who's a bit older that me so if the repaired one failed he would be a bit stuck . It wouldn't be so bad if it was mine as I could always sort it out . I had a chat with him and he is okay with getting a new one even at the rather eyewatering :omg: price that Rimmer Brothers are asking . I'll have a look at the latch with a view to doing a similar job to CJJ and see how it turns out .
Thanks for your input .

John .

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1 month 1 week ago #194448 by countax
I have done quite a few repairs on locks using clive’s guidance and would say they end up being stronger than a new one as the weak plastic pawl is replaced by a bolt. Easy job to do, just make sure you re- locate the spring correctly.
Nigel
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1 month 3 days ago - 1 month 3 days ago #194479 by sworkscooper
This is my final post on this subject . This afternoon I returned to the TF that has had the locking / alarm problem and just to be clear that there were a total of four faults with the car . The first being the Lucas 5as scu had an internal receiver fault that was rectified by Paul Brown ( Technozen ) , thank you again Paul . The second fault was an o/s door latch problem which I replaced this afternoon. The third was the door handle lock which was indeed siezed up as some on the forum had suggested and a word of warning to anyone who tries to warm up the lock on a TF , be careful the metal has the consistency of chocolate and will melt out of shape with very little heat applied . The fourth and by far the easiest fault was a rusty bonnet pin switch and terminal which wouldn't earth out to sound the horn for the alarm .
Took a few pics of the lock sripped down for those interested. :yesnod:

John
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