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  • Roverlike thanked the user sworkscooper in the forum post, Pscan and 5as Fobs
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  • Roverlike thanked the user sworkscooper in the forum post, Pscan and 5as Fobs
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  • Roverlike replied to the topic Pictures missing in CJJ's Guides
    It is huge manual job and in case that pictures are not anymore on photobucket site then they are gone. I am doing same thing on linked .org site as psymon here but as said only one by one per request, if possible.
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  • julianfoulger wrote: Thanks for that.


    This is good sum-up from David Aiketgate

    David Aiketgate wrote: Resetting the iacv (stepper motor) merely tells the ecu that the throttle butterfly is at 3.9% open.(Don't quote me on the actual figure)
    If your throttle is actually a way off 3.9% open, the IACV is confused and varies between step settings trying to achieve the correct idle.
    Hence the idle rising and falling, or being way too high..

    This is complicated because the stepper motor/IACV actually does have stepped settings and the ecu will try to get you to one of the steps. Step 21, I believe.

    If your base idle is wrong then this is an endless loop of the ecu using the stepper settings to try to get a set of correct readings.

    If you vaguely followed that, what you need to do is get the engine fully up to temperature after a good blast, come home let it idle, but disconnect the IACV plug. Let the idle settle for a few minutes and use torque app or pscan to see what the base idle is. It should be 850-875rpm. (Assuming no other reason ie vac leak, sensor problem.)
    If the idle is substantially above or below this then the stepper motor/iacv will constantly hunt or fail to get the idle correct.

    You need to adjust the idle set screw on the throttle body.
    (I know there are a lot of people who say you must not alter this as it's factory set, but it is adjustable. Its just that the manufacturer didn't want amateurs fiddling with it, hence the non tamper cover that might still be in place) Adjustment may be necessary over time due to wear, or especially if the throttle body has been swapped.

    So, reset the base idle to 850 using the set screw on the throttle body, no more than 1/4 turn at a time. After each adjustment wait until the idle settles. Once you've got reasonably close, reconnect the IACV and see what happens for about 5 minutes. If the idle settles to a stable level near 875, great!
    If not then you'll need to adjust the idle screw a small amount until you achieve a stable idle somewhere between 850-890rpm. Sometimes you might think you are nearly there and the idle will suddenly change. This is the ecu making the stepper motor move to the next step. Hopefully you will be on step 21 already but if not you'll have to keep adjusting, until you achieve 875 and step 21..

    Once you are happy switch off and reset the TPS, if you still have the torque/ pscan connected you'll see the tps sensor change to 3.9% from whatever it was.

    I went through all this a couple of years ago and the idle has been rock solid since.
    David
    :shrug:

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  • Roverlike thanked the user David Aiketgate in the forum post, Throttle status, nothing operate but Open
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  • Then you might use WD40 and graphite oil to lubricate and free the lock in the door as it might be it was not use for a long time.

    Regarding T4 session, I am not sure what you might find on the T4 session since pscan could not find much.
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  • As you are saying fobs in plural, I am asuming you have two fobs you are trying at car? If so I am puzzled how come both of them stopped working.

    I would suggest one thing - have you tried to replace, not check, but replace two fuses with new good ones 15 amps rating. One is in under bonnet fusebox number #3, and the other is in the passenger compartment fusebox (under steering wheel), number #14.

    This is attempt to be sure alarm has good power, but in the same time attempt to reset the alarm in case it is in some inbetween state which it not suppose to be.

    Also what is the voltage on the car battery?
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  • Yes, what is said in the second reply is correct. It says so in the manual as well (second green warning below):



    But, this is the screw by which you will or not be able to adjust these steps offered by pscan (TestBook in the text/picture above). What needs to be noted is that this should be the last resort.
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  • Id should not just spin, it is screw and it should make plate below move, adjusting idle speed.

    If it is just spin, in your case, have you checked that threads on the metal part holding the screw are not broken?
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  • Have you tried to press unlock button on the fob after you turned the key , and got be-bop sound to see if immobilizer will go of? Do not mind fact that it should happen automatically.

    Second thing to consider is: have batteries in the fob been changed and not resynced with the car? 4 quick press of unlock button?

    Third thing to consider is car at place which become infected with high interferrence of source like broken microwave nextdoor, or broken wifi door bell, or anything wireless which might interferre the fob frequency? In these cases sometimes helps to push car furrher down the driveway in order to move from high interferrence field and then fobs might start working.
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