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  • countax created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I find the new'ish forum quite difficult to read because of the small fonts and grey text.   My main viewing platform is an iPad. 
    Did I accidentally change some settings when it moved from the old forum format and if so what can I do to change font size to improve viewing? 
    Having the main message text in the size and colour used on the Topic and Replies header would be ideal. 
    thanks,
    Nigel
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  • If you don’t have the adaptor to test caps you can use two coolant tanks joined together with a couple pieces of hose. Put the cap under test on one tank and something like the Laser pressure tester on the other tank and pump away.
    Nigel
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  • You might want to get the spheres refurbished whilst doing this level of work as rear sphere removal in situ is very difficult.
    Don’t park the front of the car too close to a wall when you pivot it as you will need room to access the front end to pump up the suspension when finished.
    Where are you located?
    Nigel
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  • Update to the above after i looked at some pics i took whilst doing this job. Rather than using a Euro pallet i used the the U shaped base frame of an engine stand which has castors on it and shimmed this to the subframe in 3 places. This made it easy to pull the assembly from under the raised car.
    Whilst the engine and subframe are out it is a good time to replace the brake pipes and touch up any paintwork problems as these jobs are very hard with the engine in place.
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  • It is critical to lift the front high enough to allow the car to pivot when you lift the rear as the front bumper will hit the ground otherwise and you also need room underneath to reach in and undo the suspension pipes once its been deflated.   The body drops significantly when deflated.   Here is what i did.
    Undo as much as possible in the engine bay whilst the car is at normal level. you can do things like coolant pipes, brake lines, electrical cables, fuel lines, damper top nuts, exhaust etc. 
    Jack up front and place some blocks under the front wheels, i think you need about minimum 6 inches but if doing the work inside then headroom becomes and issue as you will lift the rear a considerable height to remove the engine on the subframe.   chock the front wheels to stop the car rolling off the blocks. 
    Lift the rear to level out the car and block under the wheels. 
    i placed a Euro pallet under the subframe and shimmed it with blocks to fit the four corners of the subframe, but be aware not to block access to the large bolts holding the front of the subframe to the body work.  i marked the floor where the pallet was placed to give me a ref point for re-installation.
    Deflate suspension under the bonnet using something like a plastic milkbottle to catch the fluid.  Beware, its at very high pressure so consider wearing some gasses.  undo the unions under the floor to separate the pipes. 
    Finish off undoing anything left connected to the engine.     undo and remove the bolts holding the subframe to the bodywork. 
    Using and engine lift or crane tied to the boot catch bodywork nside the boot lift up the rear enough for the engine to clear the bodywork.  
    Using a plank(s) long enough and strong enough to span the width of car place it just ahead of the engine bay, basically under the rear of the seats and block it to take the weight of the car.  Shim it accordingly to avoid crushing any pipework.
    Remove engine crane and if you have access to a pallet lift trolley pull out the engine and subrame.    From memory using a pallet under the subframe is advisable as the assembly will rotate in the engine bay of not held level.
    Hope that helps.
    Nigel
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  • I have done quite a few repairs on locks using clive’s guidance and would say they end up being stronger than a new one as the weak plastic pawl is replaced by a bolt. Easy job to do, just make sure you re- locate the spring correctly.
    Nigel
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  • That was very clever thinking regarding the inertia switch and dead locking.
    I did look up the lock movement under deadlocking on the R25 forum and it should rotate. Maybe someone has changed the lock at some point in its history.
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  • I may be wrong, but I did not think the dead locking process stopped the key barrel from turning. Surely the whole point of the EKA is a get out of jail card. Could it be the key is not a perfect fit in the barrel? My sons TF has about 6 keys that look identical but only two actually turn in the lock. Do you have a second key to try?
    Maybe try easing the non working key out a little to see if it will then turn.
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  • Do you have the EKA code? That would allow you to turn off the immobiliser using the key.
    Nigel
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  • I seem to remember we did a thread on j2 ref values when we were hosted on the old rover.org forum. Phiilip, do you still have access to the original threads? I am pretty sure the contributors were myself, cairnsys and rob bell.
    There is a thread on here now called reference values, mems3 That should be very similar to the J2 with regard to fuelling. Every time I have had high emissions it has been the lambda sensor at fault, but do check for air leaks around inlet manifold and exhaust pipe.
    Nigel
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