Topic

Gear lever mechanism bolted in.
SRS ECU on modified* mount bolted in.
Gear box end of cables attached.
Only got 1,3 and 5 and notchy.
2 3/4 turns on the short cable and ran out of twists when I wanted 3.
Turned it back 3/4 of a turn.
Yah, all 6 gears and such a nice feel.

*I trimmed the top face so one can get to the front bolt of the gear lever mechanism and so all my additional wiring (heated seats/under seat amp/CD changer) can pass under and up.

She runs....

Took her round the block, clutch bite is low but I guess it needs bleeding, other than that she goes.

talkingcars wrote: wrote:

She runs....

Took her round the block, clutch bite is low but I guess it needs bleeding, other than that she goes.

YEAH!

umm, oil is leaking on to the exhaust just after the flexi so I guess from the offside diff seal, I hope the driveshaft isn't fully in.

Good to see recent Feb 2020 update Anyway Ford's don't even bother with a disc hold screw ..the wheel holds it on .
Anyone near Liverpool and update with local meetings Too cold to work on F .
M G C to do for friend as well .

Replaced the n/s upper suspension bearing, and at the same time greased the suspension. Also drilled out the sheared disc retaining screws and cleaned up the threads. Replaced them with stainless csk Allen head screws from Toolstation. Tyres are scrubbed ( and six years old) so will be getting new front tyres and the tracking checked.

So now she won't tick over and the rad fan runs constantly.

I went for a test run to see if the clutch was bleed properly.

Got back and stopped outside on the road. I went to move her on to the drive and she started fine but wouldn't tickover, and the rad fan was on. I guessed the CTS sensor wasn't working properly (although it was reading correctly in pscan) so I changed the sensor. I still had the same symptoms.

Gut feeling said IVAC so I took it out and tried starting her again. She ticked over at 2000 rpm. I wiped the IVAC and refitted to find a steady tickover which slowly climbed in line with coolant temp so the IVAC needs a proper clean up.

But why is the radiator fan running constantly?

Faulty coolant sensor?

David Aiketgate wrote: wrote:

Faulty coolant sensor?

I hope not as I was getting the OBD reading through the pscan and I replaced the CTS for a new one with no difference.

Rear lights were looking a bit iffy after the long winter of rain we have had and some of the tinting spray had flaked off, so my 3 ringers had to come out and sanded and polished down to bare plastic and a fresh coating of tint.
Looking even better than the first time I did them!
I will get round to sealing them in shortly, but car is off to the bodyshop for some more rust spot treatment, including the boot lip corner, so will re-seal the lights back in when the paintwork has been finished.
The 3 light unit Lexus type rear lights have to be sealed in with a sealant, otherwise they will allow water to come in to the boot.

Sundance

Opened the door and sat in it.