Road Trip up North.

Cheers @Delbourt! You made my day telling me that tale and I don't feel so bad now!
I will see what I can find and if I struggle I will take you uo on your kind offer.

At the time I ordered the items I did I was in “panic mode” to bleed the system before a pre booked MOT.
Based on eBay orders and messages the one I ordered from Germany (without realising it Evri lost for several days). The refunded me then it turned up. It was small and according to another on-line source 10mm and that seemed about right from memory. The part number I ordered was PYP100500. You don’t want that if your bolt is M12!

The others I bought by description 
I might have ordered one from MGOC but I need to find my password for that, and it might be the right one. 
But remember there was more than one radiator supplier/manufacturer. I think they used different sized ports
Hope that helps.

Just looked on MGOC web pages and they quote the same part number, i.e. PYP100500. I’ll need to check if I ordered one (probably tomorrow now) and search where I dropped all this stuff after identifying a solution.

I ordered PYP100500 from MG Obsession.
It looks correct in the pic thread wise.
Fingers crossed and thank you for your help.

TA22GT wrote:

Yes I'm thinking of buying a sniffer kit..thermostat first and see how she behaves.
I'm thinking it's not HG..200 miles no temo rise or water loss..



 

Don't think.........Buy!

You'll end up needing it eventually anyway, if not for this car, then another.
Once you have it, you'll use it whenever you have suspicions. Then at least you'll have peace of mind and not die wondering! Which is highly likely worrying yourself to death about it!

I’m not sure about this but I seem to remember that one contributor on these pages renewed the cooling hoses with silicone type.
i do know that one supplier (Stoney Racing on eBay) suggested that it was important to get the compatible version of OAT otherwise it could react with the silicone to form a sludge.

I checked with one well respected supplier’s tech department and they confirmed that this was possible.

So if you have silicone hoses and the incompatible OAT it might be a cause for your present problems.
I plan to use that particular brand of hoses in the future and as part of the preparation I used the compatible OAT when changing the cam belt this last time. Based on known volumes I am certain that when draining down by releasing hoses at the underfloor coolant pipes a few Litres of coolant remain in the system, and that might be as many as 3 but probably closer to 2 but still a significant percentage.
The compatible OAT is not the latest OAT technology as I understand it.

I havethe normal original hoses. The radiator return hose to the underfloor pipe was changed but again for an original one.
I used the correct OAT as I spent some time researching it.
You are correct in saying that draining from the underfloor pipes leaves a good amount left in the system.
I jacked up the rear quite high to get more out.
When it overheated on the way up I gently released pressure at the cap and as it flowed back in to the tank I saw a lump of sludge get forced in.
The sludge has obviously been in a hose or passageway for some time and now I am suspecting the thermostat assembly as the source.
My radiator fan works ok but on that occasion it didn't come on which suggests it received no hot flow and the heat was all at the engine.
I think I am half decent on the tools but these cars are new to me and are quite quirky!!
From a quuck glance last night it looks like the intake manifold needs to come off for access.
That's more Golly Goshes!
Thank you for your help.

Someone on here did this job recently and shared their experiences.
I think it was “Wild Rover”
see Tip using search facility.Tip when removing the coolant thermostat without removing the manifold
Alternatively fit the PRT…..!
Good luck
 

No PRT for me..a quick in and out of the original! 😁

I will search thru the How To's..I struggle with the Search function on this site.

The last thermostat I changed was this one.
A five minute job!
 

 

Try this
https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/100712-tip-when-removing-the-coolant-thermostat-without-removing-the-manifold#223536

I just put the complete string of words into the search field. I’m no PC search expert. Have a go you might find it and it might save you a bit of work.
Its not in the “how to” section.
 

What directs you away from a PRT?
I was glad to rid myself of the original, it was a far from easy job to change, on my VVC engine & I have a pit.
I do note that the pipe work to swap from standard to PRT is now significantly more expensive than it has been, even though there will be enough PRT equipped cars being sacrificed due to those failings experienced, if our cars allowed to slip into dilapidation.
M

Hello AP..
It's simply the cost and fickering about not the principle of the PRT.
I hate the car not being driveable or laid up and I know if I attempted it I would be one hose short of a picnic!
The car is going to get a quick in and out insertion of a std thermostat..and like it! 😁
Of course this morning the car is behaving impeccably.
It used zero oil over 600 miles and no water on the 200 mile trip back.
I left it ticking over whilst I emptied out my tools and hoovered inside and not a blip.
Do you think I am on the right track thinking its a thermostat?
Replacing the HG is not worrying me. What is worrying me is that it was done at 32k and I bought the car at 34k...it just turned over 39k yesterday so only 7k since it was done. It had the head skimmed at the time so some intent was made to do it right. My worry is that if it has gone it is likely to be the block.
Anyway at the moment I have ruled out HG!