Noisy wiper motor!

I'm pretty sure it was Parts captain that i bought my spare fob from for my F and only £12

Perhaps try silicone spray instead of lithium grease? 

Thanks. I've never considered silicone as load bearing but then again neither is lithium! It's for lubrication.
It was the nearest to hand that would squirt!
Perhaps gear oil would be better.

Removed the motor and linkage today.
I had to remove the 15mm nut that holds the linkage on to the spline to wiggle it out.
When I turned the motor upside down there is a very slight cup around the spindle so I filled it with gear oil hoping it might seep in.
I am leaving it overnight then I can plug the motor in and see how it sounds. In all honesty I believe it is the top bearing that's the problem.
To seperate the gearbox from the armature housing there are some rivets to drill out.
Easy enough but I don't have 4mm taps to be able to tap the holes for bolts.
Lucky enough you can drill right through and use a BA bolt and nyloc nut.
I am hoping if I get the arm for the linkage back on the motor I can switch the motor on and then where it parks fit the wiper blades.
Time will tell!
Vince....if you get your head right down under the scuttle you can see each joint and you should be able to lubricate each joint. They are not tight joints and you can get something in there. Leave well alone if you can. The big nut holding the rack to the scuttle is 32mm. 

   
 

There are no profanities, as direct reference or implied! I seem to recall having to look up Cobber’s Book of Useful Words, “motor mechanics edition” from the library when I had my wiper mech’ on the bench.
I don’t recall the exact phrasing used to refit but I do recall there was many many more consonants than vowels, not unlike the sir name of my mate Riki. His dad flew Hurricanes with a Polish squadron & made the UK his home after hostilities. Take his St George’s flags down & you’ll be presenting at A&E with you arm in a carrier bag.
Anyway, looks like a good job done.
Apart from the magnet attaching itself to the rotor, you might struggle engaging the spindle in the housing. With the oilite bearing being spherical it can move under its retaining clip, wandering off axis, I’m blessed with some quality stainless & could tweek it back, failing that an aluminium or plastic knitting needle will sort it.
M

Cheers AP!
I'm going to fit the s/h one first so the car is back on the road and then strip my motor down further. If I don't cock up I will then order a bearing.
No point in spending a tenner if I end up with a pile of scrap 😉

Brian - I've managed to give the pivotey bits a good squirt with some oil that was intended for bike chains which has (allegedly) added PTFE.   Maybe it did good.  I would like to lubricate the actual wiper spindles as, I imagine, they have the harder time and exposure.   Plastic thing off then a big nut (no comments please! ) to release  and give them a squirt.

AP -  at one time I used to collect books on the Battle of Britain  from charity shops.  Ended up with a virtual library. One of them is all about the Polish squadrons.  Amazing fellas!  One story is that a young pilot had crashed a Hurricane because he forgot it didn't have fixed undercarriage.  Apparently they took this as a great dishonour, held a quick and quiet trial and where about to take him behind the hangers and execute the poor bludger..  

 Well done lubricating the linkages. It's probably GT85 which is good stuff and I use it on my bikes.
You don't need to remove the big nut to lubricate the spindles. You can remove the wiper arms and soak the splined shaft and it will drible down the shaft. I have done that with mine on the bench.
I say this because to remove the big nut you have to remove the plastic scuttle panel and that almost certainly means marking those caps covering the screws holding it on. I did!

I cleaned and polished the scuttle panel and the bottom of the windscreen so it is protected.
It is very easy to fit the rack without the motor. What are the chances of fitting the motor afterwards to an in situ rack??
 

Anyone guess what I'm going to be doing with this
 
 

You've done a lovely job of the scuttle, wouldn't it be an idea to change the heater box for a snorkel & fit a servo brace whilst you're so close. I accept these mod's all add to the costs but an improved brake feel & the possibility of a drier passenger foot well are attractive.
Your 1/8" BSP "T" piece implies an improvement to your instrumentation, an oil pressure sender to supplement the oil pressure switch. Those things are a daft price for what they are. Whilst were on with 1/8 BSP I'll put up a picture of the water drain gizmo, two are going on shortly. 
Hum, it would have been better the correct way up.
M

Thanks AP..I appreciate that.
I agree about those other mods but right now they will have to wait I'm afraid.
I have to insure it on 5th September which means I have had it a year now..and 3k miles.
The T-piece is as you say to improve instrumentation.
My clock doesn't work so I intend to replace it with an Oil Pressure gauge and fit a matching Oil Temp gauge to replace the original.
Quick question!
Am I right in thinking the Oil temp gauge will have a 3 pin connector? One from the sender, an earth and a sw live from the lights?
A live and earth for the clock and a sw live from the lights?
Thanks.
BTW. I am changing the water in the cooling system soon and will be adding a drain valve. Thanks for the reminder.

I have had a very noisy wiper motor on my 96 MGF think its the gearbox, I bought a complete assembly, well two, different plugs & because the motors are NLA I decided to rebuild & refurbish one I fitted new arms from Mike Satur which have rose jointed ends. (no fear of ends popping off ever) the wipers recently made a loud grinding noise and wont turn off, so I have fitted the refurbished set , bit of a fiddle removing existing and fitting refurbished, works like a dream & very quiet.

I’ve just written a whole section on sorting replacement gauges & it has simple disappeared when I tried to send.
I’ll start again tomorrow.
M