StefanA

It's alive!
Once I realised that I had to unlock the door with key first, before pressing the lock button several times - and pretty rapidly too - it finally reacted to the fob and then started like a dream.
Still have to take a look at the starter, but that's for the winter.

Thanks a lot, boys!

Well, the alternator fuse that sat there were 60A so I replaced it with a similar, but the more I google it the more about 80A I find. Strange indeed.

I'm going to try to resync the fob tomorrow (with the horn blaring) and if it doesn't work I'll renew the battery in the fob.

Thanks!

Well well well...

I took a good look at the earth connection for the battery this morning and the cable itself looks fantastic (since I made it myself at work...) but I didn't change the bolt to the chassis and that sure was dodgy. Got a new one, cleaned up the threaded hole in the chassis and tried again. Hey presto, we've got power!

Of course a new problem rose - the alarm went off and I just can't stop it.

Locking or unlocking with the fob doesn't work at all (door locks don't move), key in door made no difference and when trying the ignition, the dash does light up but no start and the horns won't shut up.

Split the fob and measured the battery without removing it, 2.89V. Low?

I'm really frightened about the fob losing its magic connection with the car since I only have one fob and I do not have the EKA key code.

This might be covered in the manual, but since the car is imported from Holland the manual is in Dutch and.. yeah.

Replaced the 60A fuse in the engine compartment today and I also checked every single fuse I could find under the bonnet and in the main fuse box in the foot well.
Only one fuse looked a bit strange, not blown but almost melted down by one of the connectors. F19 if I'm not mistaken, "Starter relay (multi function ECU)... Hm?

Replaced that one as well, connected the battery again and tried to start - nothing. This time I listened to the car when connecting the lug to the terminal of the battery and I heard nothing, usually you hear relays clicking but nope, dead silent.

What the hell has happened to my poor car?

Just for fun I got the starter relay out from the engine, the one marked "YWB 100970". The connectors look fine, no smell of burnt electronics - but how do you check this thing, if you can at all..?

Or am I barking up the wrong tree here, should I search for something completely different..?

Okay, some more troubleshooting done!

Came back to the car, saw the alarm light flicker but no reaction when I tried to open the car by remote - although I did lock it by key yesterday. Opened by key and the alarm started blaring. Pressed the unlock on the remote holding it just in front of the dash to no good. Solution: opened the bonnet and yanked the connections to the horns...

Tried start, no. Tried to jump start by towing, no. But I suspect that the immobilizer is stopping everything since the alarm went off and I couldn't shut it off properly. Had the battery disconnected for half an hour but no change.

The alarm is as far as electrics go now, no reaction at all when turning the key, no hazards, no headlights - nothing. Checked the fuses under the bonnet and under the dash and all seems good. Got a tip about the 60A fuse between the Ecu and expansion tank and that sure looks funny. Looks somewhat melted but I beeped it with a multimeter and seems fine, though the connections looks a bit corroded. A culprit maybe?

Anyway, I got it towed back to my garage, so now it's indoors with my tools. Makes it easier to work.

So, replace the 60A or should I suspect some relay instead?

The plan was to give the starter an overhaul anyway come winter, but it seems like I have to reschedule!

I guess you can't see the starter from the access panel in the boot? If I have to remove the larger engine cover I have to get the car to my garage first and take it from there. I really hope I don't have to change the ring gear…

I'll try to check the terminal tonight, meanwhile: more ideas are always welcome!

/edit
Oh, when checking for spares - same starter for every F/TF or what do I need to look for? 12 teeth all over?