SundanceUK

Agree with Mr Sworkscooper dont run the car far, but you should be able to manoeuvre it about your drive or onto the back of a flatbed from stone cold.
The hose should not be that hard to do from ramps once the front bumper is off, especially if its the lower hose on the passenger side. If its the hose that goes into the top of the radiator, then the slam panel will probably have to be removed. Mark up the positions of the bonnet catches etc before removing so you get it back as close as possible.

Sundance

The indicator lights themselves are switched by relays which are controlled via the BCU, that is the relay coils are energised by the BCU which interprets what indicator to turn on and flash which is conditioned by the indicator direction switch or the hazard light switch. Tapping into the switched circuits (the circuits that the relays switch) should not really cause a problem. I do find your explanation on the wiring mod a bit vague and I am wondering why you are using the indicators for DRL functions.
Normally DRL's are either mounted separately either inside the headlight units such as COB Halo rings, or somewhere in the front spoiler as addition luminaires. Some people have also converted the front fog lights which are not an MOT mandatory into DRL's too. In most cases these are usually controlled by a dedicated controller sourced cheaply from auction sites etc, which switch the lights on when the engine runs and dims them at night. Some of these controllers have a secondary function which allow the DRL's to flash if an extra wire is added from the indicator circuits - they must flash amber not white if this is the case. If this is what you are trying to achieve then I suggest tapping into the wires from the direction indicator switch on the steering column and wiring each side through an isolating relay to separate each side of the indicator function on the DRL. You must be able to dim them when the lights are turned on at night and if fitted inside the headlight I suggest they turn off when the indicator is operating, and that means proper off - not flashing off when the indicator is flashing on.
I fitted HALO DRL's to the headlights of my previous TF and the MOT man did not like the flashing HALO rings when I wired them up. I had to take out the flashing function and do what I described above and separate each one with a isolation relay to turn off the HALO for the side which the indicator was flashing. I did a how to on here a few years ago describing the initial fitting of the HALOS.

Sundance

First see if the water has antifreeze mixed in with it, it should turn a bit of paper pink if its dipped into it.
If this is the case then the water is possibly coming from the heater matrix which sits above and behind the centre console, also there are water pipes that feed through the console going up to the matrix.
If it looks like rain water then maybe its coming from the snorkel, the seal has a habit of perishing and allowing rain to get in through the front bulkhead and down into the area behind the console and into the passenger footwell.
May be a good idea to pull the carpet back and see whats in the footwells too....the carpet has a plastic membrane and can be perfectly dry on top, but sitting on a puddle of water that has collected in the footwell.

Sundance

Speedo and tacho are easily replaced, just bolt on so it will be no problem to get a replacement to fit. From mid 2004 the automatic gearbox warning light was replaced with a low level coolant lamp, which may be handy if you intend to fit one.

Sundance

That will be the correct connector for your coolant tank. When testing it out, make sure its operated for 30 seconds or more (maybe 60 seconds, I forget) as there is a dwell on the circuit to prevent the light from flashing on and off when the coolant is cold and at a lower level and sloshing about giving the float switch a bit of a a bouncing. hold the sensor down and wait until you see the alarm warning light come on.

Sundance

Its usually an aftermarket catalytic converter that causes the emissions issue on our cars, OEM ones have a lot more precious metal in them, but the cheaper refits need a really good blow through just before hooking up to the testers sniffer. Don't worry its common and once you know the way around it, most good MOT testers will give you a chance to "warm" the car up a bit before inserting the exhaust tester.

Sundance

I think about June 2004 was when Longbridge began fitting the TF with the wiring looms to to support a low coolant alarm together with modified instrument display which replaced the automatic gearbox warning light, which most TF's didn't require with a low coolant warning indicator. Curiously the early examples which had the wiring fitted, did not carry the sensor in the expansion tank! Presumably they were using up stocks of the old tanks before fitting the new design with the magnet sensor.
I put a new tank onto a mates TF which had this, and it worked great after fitting. I think anything made from September 2004 onwards had the sensor fitted in the tank.
My latest TF is a Jan 2005 model and it has the sensor fitted. My previous TF160 was a Jan 2004 build and had neither the wiring or the sensor. I fitted a contactless sensor on the outside of the tank and wired it to the unused gearbox fault lamp.
When I got rid of the 160 - or whats left of it after crashing on ice last winter, I removed the sensor from the expansion tank, its going spare if anyone wants a contactless level sensor that clips onto the outside of the expansion tank.

Sundance