it's an unfortunate use of the same word meaning two completely different things, one meaning for 5AS and different meaning for Pektron.
In the case of the Pektron system there is a way to resync fobs as part of the process of programming new ones using pscan.
If a fob isn't present at that time then I think it becomes unsynced, or disabled, but it's still programmed into the Pektron.
If the process is repeated, but this unsynced/disabled fob is now re-introduced, then I believe that it would start working again, and you wouldn't need a 22 digit code in this case, because the car already knows about it.
This is a process that can only be done with a diagnostic tool like pscan or T4.
Thank you all for continuing to help. It is appreciated. And it is not my intention to insult anyone.
The answer to the question relating to which car I have. At the moment both. A decision will taken about the high mileage earlier car in a week or two.
At present the recent acquisition (a too good to miss opportunity) with much lower mileage is under cover and not easily accessed so I can’t easily get the stud cover tool out and expose the locknut arrangement. Based on discussion and instinct I have every reason to think that it will be as it left the factory in late 2004.
If that 8 digit code relates to the locking wheel nuts it is a very big code for what I understand are relatively few potential combinations or configurations.
if the 8 digit code is something that a dealer in 2004 + could use to get the EKA code that would make more sense.
Whilst I intend to renew the fob batteries sooner than later they both work at present. I wish to obtain a third fob for various reasons. One of the existing fobs has two tags on the ring . One I believe is the hard metal key number. I do not know what the other is for (and I’m not going to list those numbers here) but if anyone can tell me what the other is likely to be I’d be very interested to hear.
The total frustration is in the fact that it is so bloomin complicated and difficult to get a like for like spare ECU that would be a straight swap and that a minor item such as a fob can’t be re coded indefinitely. The aim is to tour with this latest car and cary a spare ECU should the installed item suddenly fail. Similarly for the engine mapping ECU I would like to carry a spare even if that means deploying one that has not been remapped even if the one in daily use has.
I have been stuck with that issue before although not with an MG. Swapping out a simple plug and play is an easy quick fix.
I do now see that if I obtain an unused fob that I should be able to code that in such that all three operate satisfactorily using the Pscan tool.
Has anyone had any success with a replacement fob such as this?
item number:293279765499
When you said that you have 8 digit code and date on the card, I immediately thought that is locking key code. Why, becuase your car is late 2004 model and in 2004 MG-Rover started using McGard locking keys instead of previously used option.
Regarding usage of replacement cheap red fob from eBay, there are several members from various forums who succesfuly programmed thos fob. Actually, only PScan can programm this fob to Pektron system since T4 Testbook, original MG-Rover diagnostic tool expect that fobs barcode start with particular letter, which is not the case with this fob. Its barcode starts with different letter. However PScan was created to accept this fob as well and programm it to Pektron ECU.
On the other hand there were stories when this type of fob did not last long and needed to be replaced.
Weather you will ise it or not it is up to you.
Well "blow me down with a feather"! I live and learn something every day.
The website link seemed to accept that code for a locking wheel nut. So that is one puzzle solved. Thank you very much appreciated.
For your 2 tags on the keyring:
- if one starts with letter R followed by 4 digits, that is your metal key number
- if another starts with either of letters: N, O or P and altogether have 22 digits that is barcode of Pektron fob (which is usless if that fob is used for car opening)
Yes, I believe one is the standard metal key number but unfortunately neither equates to to your descriptions.
One has a 5 digit number with no prefix or suffix.
The other starts with an L followed by 4 digits.
I’m not too concerned about the metal key as all I need do is send an image to a locksmith and they will identify the key. Frighteningly it’s that simple.
But it would be good to know what the two codes are supposed to be.
Well, in a world of Rover key number starts with R followed by 4 digits. In a world of MG key number starts with a L followed by 4 digits. So that one is key number. My bad that I did not mention both options.
If you have radio head unit as Blaupunkt CD43 then your 5 digit code might be your radio code (although it would be odd since 5 digit code was USA version, while 4 digit code was UK version).
Now I am a bit perplexed - sadly not too difficult these days.
I have obtained a brand new (old stock) MG fob that has come with two 22 digit codes. One starts with NACA, and the other NABA, each followed by 18 numerical characters.
Can anyone shed any light on why there are two and which one should be used when coding in this fob with the two existing items using Pscan please?
So, after being in touch with the vendor they were apparently sold in pairs. He has sent one fob with a code for each fob.
Can I go wrong if I try one code and it is incorrect and then try the other?
I assume that fob came in blister pack and 2 barcodes are present on the outside. I also assume that blister pack is made for 2 fobs, but only one came. If so, that means one fob is missing for whatever reason and second barcode is from second, missing fob.
Usualy the seller should provide you info which code is for which fob. Otherwise, you will need to try one code, and if no luck, no connection, then the other one is the correct one for that fob.
Barcode represents the window within which you need to program the fob to alarm system. If you press fob few times rolling code will still be within that window, so there should not be problem to try both bar codes.
EDIT: While I was writing the response, you posted another, so you got your answer.
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