Topic

You need to determine TDC (top dead centre),
remove spark plugs to make the crank easy to turn and remove cam cover to observe cam shaft position,
start to rotate engine by hand, you need to get the crank pulley to the 16 deg BTDC mark with both valves closed on # 1 cylinder, the piston should be close to the top of it’s stroke.
Using a dial gauge, set on the top of # 1 piston ( through the spark plug hole ) and get your glamorous assistant to slowly continue to rotate the crankshaft towards the 0 deg TDC mark,
The dial gauge should continue to show the piston rising as the pulley approaches 0 deg TDC,
Once at 0 deg TDC observe that the gauge indicates the piston is at the top of it’s stroke by continuing to rotate the crankshaft past 0 deg TDC the dial gauge should indicate the piston descending once past 0 deg TDC
If this isn’t what happens then you have a serious timing problem probably caused by the harmonic balancer also sometimes known as harmonic damper or damper pulley ( the rubber bonding between the outside of the crank pulley to the inside failing allowing the outer of the pulley to rotate from the centre) this will throw all your timing out to the shithouse.
It is however an easy fix just replace the crankshaft pulley.
Rimmers part# LGH000010 there will others available from alternative suppliers.

If you can’t get access to a dial gauge there is a crude imprecise method of checking TDC, take a plastic chopstick and use that instead of a dial gauge. You can watch it rise as the crankshaft approaches 0 deg TDC, and descend once past, you won’t be able to determine exact TDC but seeing how far off TDC seems to be on your engine ( going by your pix) it should do.

All fues have been measured all have been out and inn wires have been moved all have been sprayed fuel pressure measured 2,7-2,8 bar but I clamped the return hose and got 4 + bar. It can be the pressure relief valve on the manifold. But the small spark and the timing of the spark is strange to me. Pscan wanted the crank sensor changed it has been and no complain from Pscan on this sensor afterwards but the car does not run.

I wouldn’t be worrying about fuel at the moment, you need to determine TDC before you do anything else

I will get the cam cover off and set on the dial gauge to verify this with the valves, but it did line up in piston center all in line and the marking of the cam drives wheels. as during changing of the belt. I will verify as you pointed out directly on the valves.

Hi during the timing verifying that i did. I did verify down on the pistons with 2 skue divers same length all four cylinders same height and marking on the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft points did line up. I will verify on valves.

Crank shaft sensor reads on fly wheel and rotor is on inlet cam shaft may the rotor aksel move in side the cam shaft?Or can the crank sensor read wrong on the fly wheel? The pully in front will that effect this? Ps yes on the plastic marks for timing verifying with blink lamp but for the driving of the engine controls?

It’s not just the belt timing, that is probably correct, but if the harmonic balancer is buggered then that will be showing telling you your timing is out when using your timing light.

I need to have a bloody good think about this, my instincts tell me there is something stupid wrong.
I find when doing diagnostics, I work instinctively, other without much conscious thought, so I have difficulty putting it into words and than they still get lost in translation from Australian English to English English
If the car was sitting here in front of me I’d probably find the problem pretty quickly, alas I’m in Melbourne and your car is in Oslo.
I need to think about something else for a bit, and see if it comes to me.

Hi can the Camshaft Bush move? The one the rotor is fixed to in the back of the engine MPI. I have be looking at Rimmerbros Part number NJJ0001L and it does look like there is some rubber there. I did long time ago see a layout of how it shall be pressed in. I must find it, does any one know were to find how the drive shall be toward the camshaft I have see it.

pscan is dependent on a stable 12V power supply, and, as you have found out this isn't necessarily easy to achieve when the starter motor is operating.
Feeding a separate 12V power supply to the fuse that feeds pin 16 of the OBD port is an excellent idea. To anyone that wants to try this, just make sure that the earth of your supply is attached to the earth of the vehicle well.
Lithium battery boosters and Milwaukee M12 batteries (you can buy an adapter on eBay that converts to a barrel socket) are excellent sources of 12V power that I've used.

That’s interesting, I use lipo batteries salvaged from discarded electronic cigarettes found at the side of the road, charged through cheap boards of eBay & then through a second board to jack the battery voltage up to or slightly above 12v. I use two boards because I can’t find one that does the same job cheaper (cheapskating again).
If that was charged from the OBD supply via a diode you would be guaranteed to have a strong & stable supply at any state of the car battery.
And that could be hidden under the instrument cowl with my other electronic addendum. (See other recent posts for clarity).

You can get cheap boards on ebay to charge three lithium ion cells in series (to balance the voltage in the three cells) which gives you a supply of something like 11.4V which would be ideal for pscan
The only thing is I think that you have to regulate the input to the board to 12.5V or something and I haven't figured out how to do that.
You probably don't want 14V straight from the alternator into the balance circuit.