Locked driver’s door

Delbourt wrote:

Ahh! The”machine gun” melody of the rattling lock.
What a complete pain. I bought a second hand lock, cleaned it externally, washed it out with switch cleaner and re greased it in readiness for fitting. Roll forward a few months and it was fitted (and I know what you mean by being difficult to fit - I had the thing in and out a few times becoming proficient at it . I’d say 10 minutes max).
Anyway replacement fitted it locks/unlocks on the door button, locks/unlocks on the fob button. With some trepidation I tried the super lock. Not sure if it is good or bad but that part didn’t work. So until I remove it again to disable that aspect I live in fear of pressing the lock button too many times.
Good luck with getting it out again.
On re fitting it might be worth “fooling” the system by “closing the latch” with a screw driver rather than fully closing the door.

Thank you. 
Wow, 10 minutes is impressive, it takes me far longer than that to assemble to tools and go out into the cold!
Closing the latch while the door is open is a great idea, wish I’d thought of that before I closed the door. 
I’m now thinking that whichever way I open the door, and what/whichever lock I fit, I’ll simply leave the plugs undone and remove the solenoid issues from the equation. 
 

When I say 10 minutes I mean with the door card off etc not just from a cold start with everything assembled and the door shut!
 

The locks tend to give a bit a warning before they go. They make a sort of 'whirring' sound prior to the 'machine gun'. Basically the inner plastic mechanism eventually fails and is not repairable. Once you start to hear any sounds, it is best to lock only using the key (on my car the superlock and lock occur at the same time, that is how it was programmed) and plan on replacement ASAP. This is what happened to me earlier this year. Of course, as others have said, it is best to make sure the lock is lubricated regularly to help ensure longevity. Replacement is fairly straightforward as long as you can open the door!

I find petroleum jelly works as good as anything on these parts.

Does anyone know what the actual difference is to locks of left hand and right hand drive cars? 
I’d assume the connections for the rod to the key turn but anything else? 
Driver side for RHD seem to be in very short supply. 
Is it not possible to replace just the solenoid? I’m going to have to investigate mine further once it’s out again. 

The system is a motor & gear train. It is dependant on the train to be synchronised for the mechanism to operate correctly (self evident) & like most inquisitive members who have these problems, I’ve taken one to pieces.
I’m only aware of one successful & long lasting repair, it wasn’t mine.
A while back a member who is no longer active stated & I paraphrase, “I’ve taken my lock to pieces & no matter how hard I’ve tried I can’t do a proper repair. I’ve done this so you don’t need to waste your time, buy a replacement “.
I would underscore this sentiment!
M

Door lock Repair    👈 CLICK CLICK

Many moons ago, Clive dismantled and repaired a door lock. His how to is very instructive... 

L/H locks would be a mirror image of a R/H lock so whatever is asymmetrical about one will be opposite on the other. I wouldn't mind fitting a L/H lock to my car.
It's just temping fate............One day, I can see the battery being flat and the drivers door lock choosing that moment to shit itself, of course I'll need to get in desperately and wont be able to because the imbiciles only put a lock on one side!
Of course one I have locks on both sides, providing me with an easy solution, then fate just won't bother and this problem will never occur, as I'd taken all the fun out of it!

I could be wrong but I do seem to recall something about some of the low spec  (poverty pack) 1.6 litre cars  had locks on both sides as they didn't have central locking.

David Aiketgate wrote:

Door lock Repair

Many moons ago, Clive dismantled and repaired a door lock. His how to is very instructive... 

Don’t suppose you know where that how to is?  I looked but can’t find it. 
 

Click on the highlighted blue link in David's post.
It looks like a good read.

Cobber wrote:

…
I could be wrong but I do seem to recall something about some of the low spec  (poverty pack) 1.6 litre cars  had locks on both sides as they didn't have central locking.

In my quest to find a replacement lock, I’ve seen an advert for a non central locking actuator for the very early cars, at  an astronomical price. 
It appears that soon we’ll only be able to get LHD locks in the UK and will have to drill the extra key hole. 
 

R40MGF wrote:

Hopefully this photo should help give you a better idea of what you need to do.  

this is in the unlocked position. 
 

This is in the locked position. 

I've just had a bit of an Eureka moment!
 Looking back at R40MGF’s excellent and very helpful photos, while trying to depress the lock tab, I found that it wouldn’t depress fully (even using a screwdriver or similar) if the battery was disconnected or not fully charged. 
So I’d suggest to anyone experiencing similar issues, make sure the battery is connected and in tip top condition before you give up totally on your nicely lubricated lock not moving correctly.